Simon Smith

They let you do it with cooking oil because it is a Bio fuel. Anything mineral based other than derv will get you nicked. The same reason that you can't use red, paraffin, heating oil or anything else.

Sounds like many of our customers. Today my mate had this conversation. Customer "Can I have some strimmer line please" Baz "What size sir?" Customer "I don't know, just strimmer line" Baz "Is it petrol or electric?" Customer "Erm, it's a strimmer, oh it's petrol" Baz "What size strimmer?" Customer "I don't know" Baz "Is it a straight shaft or a bent shaft?" Customer "I don't know, it's a strimmer" Customer decides to go home and find out what it is, but just as he's leaving says "It curves down at the end" Baz "So it's a petrol, bent shaft machine. You want 2mm line then." It wouldn't be so bad, but probably 50% of our customers come in for parts without a clue as to what machine they want them for.

Agree with Western, my last 110 had a 2" lift and standard arms and it handled like a sportscar. Well OK I lied a bit, but it certainly went generally in the direction I wanted it too.

If the crank was rotated without the belt on, you could have bent a pushrod or two as the pistons will hit any valve that is open. There will always be two valves open somewhere.

Towing heavy trailers with my 200Tdi is a doddle, no it isn't that fast up hills, but after trying to reverse the trailer up my drive with a V8, well never again. I'm used to being able to do that at tickover which the V8 wouldn't even think about doing. Speed shouldn't be an issue with horses on board, so I would go Tdi personally.

On my last 110 the slots that the cross pins run in were worn, which caused all sorts or amusement when trying to pick a gear. I made some stainless sliders and screwed and bonded them in place. Ended up with the slickest gearbox without it costing an arm and leg.

Agree with that. Mine is slightly left of centre with the ignition on and the engine not running, and slightly to the right with the engine running, regardless of battery state or electrical load it stays firmly in the same place unless I switch EVERYTHING on and let it idle, when it will drop to around the centre. Tho Voltage with the engine running should remain constant.

Another X-brake here, would never go back to the drum.

That's one of the things we use tygon for, most of the OE fuel lines on the cheaper saws and brushcutters are not resistant to the ethanol in modern petrol, never seen a tygon hose fail yet. So this could be a good test. Should be available in the US and Canada as Oregon are one of the distributors.

Here in the UK it has been illegal to use vehicle brakes on a new trailer for many years now, Personally having used both I would get some proper suspension units with auto reverse brakes, the twin leading shoes will still work in reverse just as the do on the vehicle, they just don't work as well. You could still fit them under a landrover rear tub or similar if that's what you intend doing.

What about tygon, seems pretty much resistant to anything and should be available from any garden machinery place. We keep it in many sizes including 1/8th

I won't be able to come, but I will wave at you all from the train if you are visible from there.

Somebody say something?

Sounds like panhard rod to me too, with the spacers under the springs the axle will move further towards the drivers side when the passenger side spring is extended than it would without the spacers. You may need a slightly longer panhard rod to bring the axle back to the centre after the lift.

Oh yes, Kubota main propshaft. Havent got a parts drawing here, but beink kubota parts Si would probably need a morgage to pay for them

I can't think of a ride on mower that uses anything like that, and we work on them every day. If they have UJ's they are on splined PTO ends not flanges.

Take one of the tiedown eyes off the chassis, and bolt that on.

How long before they kill someone? Or has it already happened but not been linked to a faulty part? For selling something that dangerous they really should be put out of business.

Never had a problem with the originals when I had my S3, sold it with 188k miles on it. What is going wrong with yours as it sounds like there must be something else wrong.

Have you fitted it yet Barry? Or do you need to borrow the drive again?

Do not, under any circumstances, use bearings that come in a blue box! Though I have used blue box seals with no problems at all.

I found the same thing, no way will it move even with the brake only applied very gently

I would still use a trailer, I would rather tow for 2000KM than bother taking it to bits and trying to get it through a Defenders stupidly small back door! I wouldn't want heavy bits of BMW flying around inside in an accident either.

Wear on the rocker arm pad? sometimes the feeler gauge will bridge across a groove worn in the pad by the valve stem, so you have a bigger gap than you think.

And having worked on many defender 90's and 110's I have never seen a handbrake switch on one yet, though did once think of fitting one until I found there was no wiring to the handbrake warning light and "can't be arsed" was the first thing that sprang to mind.