Simon Smith

Mine doesn't pressurise either, never has done since I got it. However the heater works really well after I put a new thermostat in it about 12 years ago! and works even better after throwing the huge fan away and fitting an electric one. However the heater was useless in my old 110 after changing the 19J for a brand new 200Tdi retrofit kit, no matter what I tried. Eventually fitted a Tdi heater matrix and it worked perfectly, but never did work out why.

Good to hear you got what you wanted, just waiting for the pics now.

Apart from dropping the sump, I wouldn't bother trying to get the engine further apart to clean the goo out. Just nip into your local tractor dealer for some "Universal tractor oil" (probably cheaper than flushing oil) and give it three or four oil changes after getting it up to running temp each time. you will soon get rid of the emulsion. Then change to your preferred brand of oil.

Agree with Western. Don't even think of going elsewhere or you will regret it for evermore.

Sorry to hear that, the things thes scum will do to steal something. I wonder if they realise it would actually be easier to just get a job!

Although you spelt triple x trading correctly in your post about triple x trading, you said the tip item for triple x trading instead of the top item for triple x trading.

Yes mine was a nice smooth round shaft, would have been virtually impossible for it to do any damage though I suppose it could eventually wear through the sump. Anyway you wouldn't like it if it was a simple job now would you!!!

On my PTO driven one the propshaft only cleared the front of the sump by about 1/8". It used to rattle a bit on tickover, but otherwise I cant recall it ever hitting very hard. I cured the rattle by slipping a bit of split heater hose over the shaft, but of course this fell off if you used the winch.

It's the plastic fitting on the end of the hose which plugs in to a large grommet on the servo. LR part number 18G8953L according to my parts drawing, includes the NRV and the grommet.

The top and bottom of my engine are covered in oil, yet I never have to top it up between services which just shows how much mess a tiny leak can make. The same goes for the gearbox and transfer box, which also never need topping up more than about 1/8th of a pint. It never drips on the drive either. Which actually tells me it's having an identity crisis.

My 200Tdi creates plenty of vacuum at idle, in fact if you pump the pedal without the engine running until the pedal goes hard and then start the engine, you can feel the pedal go down just on cranking on the starter. My last 200Tdi was just the same, and both had servos that would hold a vacuum for several hours if you didn't touch the pedal. So I am pretty sure that there is a leak somewhere, If the pump creates a vaccum at higher speeds but the vacuum fails as soon as you slow the engine speed I think the pump is fine but not keeping up with the leak. Had the same problem on my Series 3 and replacing the NRV and it's rubber grommet fixed it.

That's a better one than mine, Mine doesn't know when a trailer is plugged in so I really should update it. (Ok I lied, mine doesn't work as perfectly as I thought)

Yes, I must admit mine works perfectly, but you will have to modify the warning light wiring if you dont use resistors (assuming a 300tdi is the same as a 200tdi)

I fitted an electronic flasher unit, but this meant I also had to rewire the warning light otherwise all 4 flashed at the same time. the standard light is simply wired between left and right circuits, and this needs to be rewired with one side to an earth point and the other fed from L and R circuit through diodes. Fitting resistors is probably easier, I don't know what value, but there's normally plenty on Ebay.

Cynic-Al your Honda clone is running lean, a common problem with all makes due to poxy emmissions regs. Honda's and their clones can normally be improved by screwing the air screw IN about a quarter turn (the opposite way to most) if it's not tamper proof. Otherwise remove the main jet and gently polish it out with a snug fitting wire, I use an old set of electric guitar strings for this job.

Briggs and Stratton are having a lot of their engines built in china as well now, but I don't know who by. Chances are it will be either Loncin or Lifan, But yes, Briggs parts are available pretty much anywhere so are always a good bet.

Loncin make engines for Honda, Toro, Allett and other reputable lawnmower brands. They also make the engines used in the BMW G650GS and Husqvarna trail bikes, so absolutely no worries engine wise. Unlike other Chinese engines you should also be able to get spares. Not all Honda clone engines are made by Loncin, some are actually Chinese copies. a genuine Loncin is just as well built as a Honda.

I fitted one of these. Cheap but it scared off two attempts at stealing my 110. I now also have the X-Defend pedal lock too as I don't think that the alarm would stop them a third time. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Falcon-Predator-MK1-Car-Alarm-System-with-Battery-Backup-Siren-/390437258563?pt=UK_Car_Accessories_Safety_Security&hash=item5ae7dfc543

Yes keep posting the updates please, if anyone is getting bored they don't have to read them.

Grind the head off, remove the swivel assy and then it will probably undo with mole grips. If it doesn't at least you will have room to drill it out. Or as above, weld a nut to it so the spanner fits, the heat might also make it a bit easier to undo.

Oh yes, that would do it. So provided your filter did it's job you should be ok.

There has clearly been metal through that pump, which tells me there is another fault somewhere as it had to come from somewhere within the engine. I fear that you may have a lot more work to do on that engine.

And contrary to what electricians and builders tell you, a lamp is historically the complete assy. Oil tank, wick, mechanism and shade long before electrickery was invented.

We all know what is meant by "bulb" and it's what the manufacturers call them. I've had leds in clear lenses for years. Always passed the mot, and a traffic friend said that provided the lights work correctly and are the correct colour, they were fine. E marking isn't a police issue and they don't generally know which number is correct anyway.

Well done CW. Not sure anyone can find one worse than that!!