Simon Smith

I spent a fair bit of time building kit cars for myself and others, and According to the information I was given by whatever VOSA was called at the time. Provided the COMPLETE light unit is E marked and approved for use on a motor vehicle, and is fitted so as to conform with C&U regulations. Then it is legal. Let's face it if that wasn't the case there would be no kit cars, as virtually every one uses lights completely different from the donor vehicle. However fitting a different bulb to a unit not approved and E marked for that bulb is illegal.

It's a nice compact pump too I think from memory. That will do then, it even looks like the 200Tdi pulley will fit it so I can keep the V belt.

Looked again and the one I saw that I thought was reversible, isn't. What they mean is you can buy it in either rotation. So it seems I need an anti clockwise pump. So presumably I need to find one that runs of the back of the belt, Or apparently Honda Civic engines run the other way to everything else, though as I have always managed to avoid getting anywhere near one I wouldn't know. I was just going to stick a 200Tdi pump on the other way round, but I now know it would stick out too far.

I've stared, and the answer is a resounding no, that isn't reversible. The one I found before that was looked more like the 300Tdi one, anyone got pictures of the innards of one of those?

We are converting the Dual Drive Wheelhorse from manual to power steering. But we need a pump that rotates CCW as it's driven from the "wrong" end of the crankshaft. I've found from much googling that some pumps actually work either way, so I was wondering if any of the Landrover ones do, as they are easier for me to get hold of secondhand. If not does anyone know of a car with an anti clockwise PAS pump?

Have seen them with no valve clearance from new too. I set them at 0.006" inlet and exhaust. Normally the Loncin runs as well as a Honda OHV and better than a Honda OHC. Also junk the Chinese plug and fit an NGK BPR5ES.

Did I hear my name mentioned? Even Honda engines run too lean in my opinion, stupid emmissions regs. We often ease the main jet out a bit, but on the Loncin/Honda OHV engines there is also a small pilot jet which is in a plastic bit held in by the idle screw. Take it out and poke a 10 thou wire through it. (We use a top E electric guitar string) That should help. On OHC engines the jet is in the body under a cross head screw in the same place.

I disconnected the bulb and earthed one side of it, then fed the other terminal from the two original wires but with a diode in each.

I switched from EP90 to one shot and had to start adjusting it. Went back to EP and haven't had to touch them since. Might be a coincidence, but I'm sticking with EP now regardless.

I've fitted an external charging point to my 110 to plug the Ctek into. Never mind disconnecting the battery, I don't even open the door

Agree with western. My old 110 had manual steering, and the steering really wasn't that heavy at all apart from getting in and out of parking spaces. The one I have now on the other hand has PAS and when the bolts holding the bracket to the engine failed recently it felt as if the steering had seized solid!

Dragging up an old thread here. 200Tdi Defender 110 Disk front drum rear. Is the stub axle seal 60mm on this too, I'm thinking they are the same diameter as Disco just a different length stub axle.

I patched the right hand one on mine, but now need to do the left, and mine was indeed only sealed to the seatbox by the carpet being sandwiched between the two!

I have reported it too.

Haven't rebuilt an SU for many a year, but did one or two in the 70's. Not too bad to do yourself, just take your time.

Worth remembering that one here. Normally those clutches either work, or don't, with no "in between" symptoms.

Just a thought, we bought one of these tops off ebay to fit to a tractor, but I did notice that it had smaller holes in the underside, and less of them, than the one on my 110. I wonder if someone has fitted a different top which looks the same, but isn't. Another idea that just sprung to mind, it could be a manufacturing fault where the pipe was inserted too far before it was welded. Could you try the top from somebody elses snorkel to see if it makes a difference.

I run a 200tdi with the same snorkel top, big intercooler, upped boost and fuel and a K&N filter. I have a 2" gate valve on the airbox to let more air in when the snorkel isn't needed, but to be honest it makes no difference so I can't see how it could cause a problem.

I don't know what they use to clean tanks and tankers, but we had a mower come into the workshop a couple of years ago that had "just stopped" along with the customers car which had been taken away on a truck. When I stripped the mower engine, about a week after the incident, the carburettor was basically aluminium oxide, as was the cylinder head, block and piston to the point you couldn't turn the crank with a breaker bar.

Yes, check the bottom hose too, and the one from the air filter to the turbo. My hoses looked fine when I took them off and checked them, but changing them to silicone hoses unleashed quite a bit more power, so they couldn't have been as good as they looked.

When I fitted my alarm, (make escapes me at the moment) I had to fit a seperate central locking relay which I got off ebay. I think they can't supply sufficient current to fire all the locks.

Sealed LED units are 100 times better than using LED bulbs in the standard lights anyway, changed mine from LED bulbs to the Bolt on Bits lamps after being advised that mine weren't strictly legal. Wish I had done it to start with as they are just so much better.

Mine also leaks from that large hex plug, and has done for years, uses hardly any fluid though, no more than an eggcup a year. I presume there must be an 'O' ring in there.

Played it several times and can't hear a whine. Sounds normal to me unless my old ears are failing.