dirtyninety

its does look quite a lot of fun...

Most insurance companys refuse to insure, or charge the earth to insure Q plated vehicles. They won't insure me generally because im young (22) and a Q plates are high risk vehicles. Atleast thats my experience when getting quotes for different vehicles.

zf4hp22 zf4hp24 tail housings are they interchangeable? Oops, title is meant to say 24 too, cursed phone keyboards! Mod edit please?

Russ, what have you ended up doing? There are a few places round here that could straighten your chassis. In all honesty, i think if you took a tape measure and set square to any land rover chassis it wouldn't line up perfectly. which bits are bent exactly?

A 90 is a FAR superior towing vehicle than a 110. The distance from the pivot (tow bar) to the rear axles is very short (think like a tractor, hitch is between the wheels) The closer the tow bar is to the rear wheels, the more stable the trailier will be. Long overhangs give the trailer more of a lever to chuck the vehicle around. having towed with various vehicles, NOTHING beats a TD5 90 (300tdi 90 comes close)

Normal right hand thread! I removed mine the other evening and had a similar battle, 200/300 tdis are left hand thread and v8's right hand thread.

Hi chaps, ive recently purchased these... 509t blue LED bulbs but upon trying to fit them, i have found the LED is too tall, so you are unable to fit them. Can somebody point me to somewhere on the net that sells a 509t blue led bulb that is short enough to fit the td5 speedo? Same thing goes for these 286 blue LED bulbs Whilst they fit in my fuel and temp guages, they DO NOT fit the heater illumination holes because they are too tall to fit the housing. So again, has anybody fitted LED bulbs that actually fit? Many thanks!

Yes been done before, if you keep the loom intact its fairly simple. Alarm and immobiliser can be "turned off" via the ecu. I'd get rid of the rear air bags and ace as they're both super unreliable

The strength difference between 10 and 24 spline is negligible. However there are more upgrades for 24 spline axles in terms of 4pin diffs, lockers etc etc I think its a good upgrade, but strength doesn't really come into it.

How silly I feel, bottom turbo pipe and popped off when tilting the engine backwards!

Right, I've spent all week fitting a new dual mass flywheel (never again without a lift!) And now have everything back together. Started up first time, as expected, but now when accelerating under load I block out the sun. All turbo pipes seem correct, no splits or leaks. It feels like I'm getting zero boost, the engine is very very sluggish. Yet before I did anywork it was lively and nippy, especially with the chip on (now removed as thought that might be the problem) Td5 gurus, please help!

You might have a pin-prick airleak in your fuel pipe, which is slowly getting larger, allowing more air in thus symptoms worsening. You might also want to check your lift pump is in good order. With the engine running, open the bleed screw (not all the way!) on the fuel filter housing, Does it foam/bubble/nothing/squirt diesel everywhere?

Ill give britpart a bash, I only do 6thousand miles a year!

That's good to know, I dont think my 90 can judder anymore than it has been for the past six months anyway! R380s are well proven with smfs, so that shouldnt cause a problem. Best get taking the guts out my 90 then!

Ah interesting, ill nip down on monday and inquire! They're only over the hill from here! Dan, have you had any problems when converting to solid flywheel, I've heard reports of crank bearing failures, however not on a land rover.

Yep I've emailed them asking for a price. Are there any other manufacturers?

Right fellas, my dmf has collapsed and so wonder where is the best place to get a solid billet flywheel from? I know britpart/paddocks do one, but I'm not sure I would trust it. Rakeway do full kits, but show no prices. Are there any others? Are their many people who have done this conversion? Comments please!

We melted a clutch release bearing yesterday, The symptoms are that the clutch pedal drops right to the bottom of its travel, and you are unable to use the clutch. The clutch pedal will not spring back to the top. It sounds like it is the release bearing, as if your gearbox had failed, the clutch wouldn't have hit the floor like it has. Were replacing with a steel or even an alloy release bearing, this is the second time we've had it fail in 2 months!! Also, after reading Mikeys reply, it could also be the clutch fork - however to replace either item, bearing or fork you will have to separate the engine and gearbox. For the price of a bearing and clutch fork - id replace both!! Uprated/strengthened forks are available.

The radiator leaking is no problem, brand new replacements can be bought for cheaps, or even visit a breakers yard, theyre thousands of 300 discoverys being broken for parts. Turbo - I agree, possibly a de-laminated turbo hose If not, replacement turbo's are around £650 new, or £100ish second hand on ebay. ( or buy a complete new engine for 350ish, remove turbo and sell on the engine)

Yeah tried everything, I have now got it open tho! Yay http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=69786 The pdf at the bottom of this thread is very informative. You can poke two screw drivers through grill, poke them through the plastic cover and wiggle and prod unroll you hit the sweet spot. To be honest I sat for half an hour trying and gave up, my annoying mate spent two minutes and popped it open! The mechanism is free, but the spring is incredably strong, combined with a old cable (x reg) means you cannot open it. Going to order a new cable, and wd40/copper slip the mechanism so its as free as can be. So that's definitive proof, you CAN open a td5 disco bonnet from the outside, without cutting the grill.

Unfortunately the bonnet release is behind the grill, and then surrounded in an anti-tamper guard to stop people opening your bonnet! I have found the cable isnt snapped, but you cant pull it hard enough to pop the bonnet. I think the actual mechanism is siezed up. Not looking forward to this job. May be a case of cutting the grill out, and butchering the mechanism from underneath. carp.

Can anyone tell me how to open the bonnet on a discovery 2 that has a broken bonnet release cable?

You mean were going to have to pay this year? Im pit crewing for Tim Platt, where does this leave me?

The corn auger system used in our milking parlour is actually powered using volvo lorry wiper motors!

hows about using an air ratchet, connected with a long extension to a lathe chuck. No need to worry about electrics, you've already got a meaty air supply, reversible, speed controllable with a simple valve and flow meter and you can remove the ratchet for other uses as well!