dirtyninety

I believe you can buy the same tool chests, but clearly without the halfords stickers on, from spaldings... https://agricultural.spaldings.co.uk/Shop/Tool-Storage-86.aspx The price depends on how good at bartering you are! Its definitely cheaper than halfords tho!

Check the swivel ball for play

take the wheel off, the drive flange bolts can come loose, if your lucky you might be able to just tighten them up!

my buggys safety cell/main cage was £450 made out of CDS, all notched and bent. That ISNT a lot of money for a cage thats well over spec'ed and that i trust to keep me and my best mate alive. All the addiction tube work will be made out of blueband and similar to Barry Gee's tomcat, with be made sacrificial. Your an idiot if you expect to take part in a extreme sport without spending the money to keep your co-driver and yourself safe.

We like to use the standard 300tdi era standard arms, bent then braced with some 5mm wall angle, never bent these with 3 years of challenging on them. I wouldnt like to use the earlier larger diameter arms, they're considerably lighter and thus i feel weaker. probably not the case however! The really really early RRC trailing arms are incredibly thin things, i've seen loads of those bent to buggery!

The winners of KOV and KOP (not sure on the others, KOG is a event new this year) win paid transport and entry to the legendary American King of the Hammers. I've been and spectated and pit crewed for a team at KOV. Hopefully that is where my truck shall end up. If the MSA have pulled out, and we start using the American rules, it will make the sport a hell of a lot better. The american regs are far far more lenient regarding cage design.

ultra4 in my opinion means nothing other than a type of racing. If you took a fiesta to an ultra4 event, would it make it an ultra4 vehicle?!

Have you checked the fuel pressure? IMHO black smoke means either too much fuel and the right about of air, OR the right amount of fuel, and too little air. Id be checking for collapsed intercooler hoses, sometimes they de laminate on the inside and sometimes they collapse. Was the MAF sensor a good quality replacement? Diagnostics should flag up any dodgey sensors.

Rock sliders have been used in anger with only 2 mounts for years, I seriously wouldn't worry about it!

shock bushes, radius arm chassis end nuts/ bushes, panhard rod bushes, body mounts?

Bin the EGR valve. My actuator used to stick terribly, i gave it some WD40 and it sorted it. I then read you werent supposed to use oil on it, its never missed a beat since! (WD40 on hot turbo is dangerous!)

Surely you could just swap the UJ off the RRC shaft?

Id like to know more about the lt230 2wheel drive conversion? is this something ive completely never heard about?

There are actually quite a few round here Bill, atleast 2 restored ones in my local area (not far from Dan) that I can think of.

looking brilliant dan!! its come on some since i saw it! I think he's not finishing it, because its actually one of his brothers vehicles, and his brother lives in Australia

I've seen somebody using a td5 electric pump on a 200tdi

Your lucky! My friend tried to jump his 200 90 off a 206, it fried the ecu, which is connected to the ignition barrel, the keys had to be changed, along with all the key barrels in the doors. Cost 1500 to repair.

I have new maps and map editing software

Im interested in a group buy too!

As title really, I'm wanting to remap my ecu, and debug a few gremlins, I've got the opportunity of an old style nanocom. Should I buy the evolution version or buy a second hand old version?

read this build thread... http://www.devon4x4.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&view=topic&catid=16&id=140764&Itemid=106

I have a complete axle here, with later style wide radius arms. 24 spline. £100

I think your massively over complicating what can be a very simple system. Some clever valving, and a solenoid can give you the desired results.

Yep, you can get solar panal trickle chargers fairly cheaply.

How have you tested the tractive force?