dirtyninety

Nail on the head, they help to reduce chassis/axle/link stress and fatigue. They are however awfully expensive for the simple job they do. IMHO only people that have lots of dosh and need a bling factor use them!

Cut them off? and reconnect further up the fuel line.

THATS SICK!! (im 21, allowed to talk like that) One of my dream vehicles!

Dan, what mm plate do you use for reinforcing things such as your panhard chassis mount?

I would be looking at poor engine/chassis earths and making sure the wiring is up to the job. How big are the batterys you've had fitted?

I believe 300tdi pas pumps spin the opposite direction

my 2p, If you have a 3phase supply... USE 3PHASE!! Ive got a SIP 249 which is 250amps on a single phase 16amp spur, I wish to god id bought a 3phase instead!

Oh, and the clearly the best way to test how strong my friends new rear crossmember is... (fabrication and welding done by me )

And the current state of my workshop...

I believe they are 60mm the sillicone bend on my 200 turbo is a good snug fit (not stupidly tight needing gorrila hands) and it says 60mm on it. I remember trying a 63mm bend first and it was too big.

I do quite struggle with light... Pictures will be added in due course!!

First things first, this will be a fairly slow moving project, women, holidays and life seems to absorb my money at the moment! A little while ago i purchased a RRC of RangeyRover on these forums, and i started a small thread in the members section http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=78270&hl= Following that, my girlfriend started talking about loads of crazy expensive ideas, so i figured Im probably not going to get another chances anytime soon to build a challenge truck. My initial plans were to build a truck like Chris Abels range rover but with the plan to fit Discovery 2 axles with a homebrew/cheap four link system. I tossed some ideas about and the RRC body really doesnt lend itself to being a competitive challenge truck with the sport at the current level. So off came the RRC body. I decided when your running a v8, you've GOT to have Megasquirt... right? So I built a board Now, Ive got a chassis, axles, engine, and EFI set up. What else do you need? ROLL CAGE! I purchased a roll cage with outriggers (not in photo) from Tornado Motorsport, and what a terribly nice bloke Dave is! Hopefully I shall find time soon to get the cage and out riggers welded up, engine plonked in and axles/suspension set up in the next few weeks. I will be aiming for a 110inch wheelbase, to help fit 40inch rubber in. My ambition is to enter KOV and similar events in 2014. But possibly with a 4.6 or a diesel engine with some cheeky modifications. DirtyDiesel doesnt live to far away from me, so he can expect to have his brains thouroughly picked on engine choice. Axle-wise, The D2 axles wont last too long i dont think. Looking at finding something strong and proven. maybe even Dana...

http://s116.photobucket.com/user/Woody76bass/library/RRC?page=1 Photo album of all the photos

http://www.tpore.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=91&t=390 RRC body onto a discovery chassis swap

RRC and Disco 1 chassis are the same. (except the early 3 door RRC's with the rear shock behind the axle, however drilling some holes sorts that out, its the only difference.) RRC's fitted with air suspension on the front had outboard front shocks and had brackets to suit, however the spring hanger is the same. But i am unsure whether it is drilled to take a turret. 8 holes drilled and it'd be the same

The oil pump IS fragile, but it is much, much easier and faster the unbolt the bell housing and remove the engine with the TC still bolted up. The TC will slidge straight off the autobox shaft. Then, once the engine is on the floor, remove it (access to the bolts is through the notch in the starter motor hole) When refitting the new engine, engage the TC on the autobox, and 'feel' it back onto the shaft. It is incredably easy, you'd have to be a complete numpty to screw it up. If you look on the ashcroft website there is a list of gearbox's and serials that tell you how deep the TC should fit into the box/ onto the shaft. Just my 2p. If anyone can give me a reason why thats bad please go ahead! Ive always found it the much easier way.

Pour it into the diesel space heater Space heater has its own little fuel filter that gets replaced when dirty.

check the cam shaft timing gear bolt isnt loose and allowed the cam to slide backwards. Fairly common on 200's.

Post up your new hydraulic drive pictures

If I've done my research correctly, these only have 80 bhp. Why would you not choose to fit a bit more lively engine now the old one is dead?

Where abouts are you from?

You've said it yourself, you've already broken the strongest factory CV. 24 spline shafts are thought to be stronger, but only the smallest amount. If your breaking shafts regularly, you don't have much option other than to go for Ashcroft shafts.

water dust and electric dont mix! However if you were able to mount a big enough servo to move the wheels, the heat build up and power requirements i think would be huge.

Zardos have you got any pictures of your megasquirt box install..... and actually some of your truck please?

Henry, how do you find your varidamps?