CwazyWabbit

I have that one, now I just need to get my finger out and make my cnc table for it

One of the bits I read suggested it works more effectively with a good battery that has twice the voltage of the bad one ... you could use two good batteries in series.

Ah, that looks more substantial than mine was Will, it was quite a few years back so maybe they have improved them or I have mistaken the manufacturer of mine.

Really? I must have had a duff one then because the stitching tore out on the first filter I tried to undo with mine

Have a read of this instructable Richard http://www.instructables.com/id/Revive-Nicad-Batteries-by-Zapping-with-a-Welder/ also have a read of the comments, there is some pretty good info in there. I have done this before with AA rechargeable batteries and a bench power supply, it bought them back to life and they have been fine for a couple of years. NB If using a welder make sure it's a DC one. Oh and make sure the battery isn't a Lithium Ion one

What's wrong with the existing one? There was a post on here where someone repaired one. EDIT: Here's the post http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=88404 might be of no help at all but you never know

On the 110 I've only ever needed a firm hand to remove the filter, back when I had my motorbike on the road the spin on oil filter was much harder to remove. I've used the cloth type rrr47 said not to buy ... it broke the first time I tried using it! So I'll agree with that.

The guy on here that has one built his own I believe, and IIRC has a V8 in it now .... FridgeFreezer knows the bloke.

That is a basic AC stick welder, it has a large transformer inside and the output is AC.

Nick hasn't said what machine he is using, I'm guessing as he is first starting out at stick welding it'll be a simple low priced machine and most are AC (or at least they always used to be ). But I'm sure he will let us know.

7018 are available as an AC or a DC rod DC rod on an AC machine will apparently be a bugger to start (I've only used on DC machines), also if they are damp they can be a problem to start.

just press the 'more reply options' button then 'attach file', the picture stays with the thread forever then It's the best way. Back on topic now. You are lucky in that you have a motor that can easily be changed from star to delta looking at that label. Also it's a 1HP motor. So you should be able to use that easily with a VFD.

I'd buy the helicoil kit and a spare manifold gasket before you go and stash it in the land rover somewhere just in case

When drilling for the HeliCoil you aren't really removing much metal, mostly just the damaged thread, I've done it before using the drill bit just held in a chuck (not attached to a drill) and turning by hand, or you could use a 90 degree adapter for your drill, they're quite cheap from toolstation.

That sounds like your original motor was single phase Ed, in which case you had no choice but to get the new motor

I'd watch some of Jody's videos on youtube, there is a lot to be said for seeing it in action.

I'm no expert... Jody is You are right 6013 rods aren't really bothered by damp, they get classed as farmer/general purpose rods (not insulting farmers here), 7018 rods are as you say sensitive to damp and should be kept dry, but are a nicer rod to work with and have a number of superior properties.

Apparently they still haven't decided if they will be scrapped because of safety concerns.

Well I didn't expect that http://www.itv.com/news/meridian/update/2015-01-27/luxury-cars-start-being-unloaded-from-ship-hoegh-osaka/

They are dead simple to use, there are also some other brand names which are not so expensive. I've used them a few times, certainly a lot easier to do than a head swap

6013 rods have a tendency to do that, they have a lot of slag and you need to use more of an angle to on the rod to force it behind the puddle ..... 7018 rods are MUCH nicer and have better penetration to.

Ah, I kept my old motor. If your motor isn't 230/415 wireable (star/delta) as standard and is just a 415v (star) version you can normally still rewire it relatively easily if you open it up and have a root around.

Red90 is right about the Genuine valve caps being soft, the only ones that are reputed to last any length of time are the ones that Turner engineering have sourced, they are correctly hardened.

Look up helicoil, you'll be able to do it yourself in situ most likely.