CwazyWabbit

If it is stick have a look at this page http://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/arc-welding-videos.html one of the links off there is a comparison of rod types and not all are suitable for vertical welding.

Stick as opposed to MIG? Which rods are you using?

Looking at the part of the rear spring that you can see and it's relation to the wheel centre then G is right, it has a fat spacer between axle and spring ..... and very long U-bolts!

Which THC did you get in the end Simon? The same as Robert?

No problem Iain, if it's not that then you have a generic wiring/earthing problem and it's time to start searching around. Good luck and welcome to LR4x4 Let us know how you get on.

A common issue affecting the lights is the switch on the steering column, they have a tendency to burn out. I would check that and look to see if it looks melted.

Newton Tesla ( http://www.newton-tesla.co.uk/ ) are a very good company to deal with, I had a VFD off of them many years ago that I use to run my wood lathe and it's taken a lot of abuse without a problem. They were very helpful with phone support when I installed it. I have also bought one of those chinese VFD's recently that are on ebay at the moment, I followed your school of thought and have a 2.2kw one running my drill press which is of course complete overkill. It hasn't blown up yet however I personally would get something from Newton Tesla if the application is running something that I couldn't be without, if my drill press one blows up I can swap it out for one off of a different tool to get me out of trouble

Is that washer supposed to have a crack in it?

Obviously takes his drinking seriously with an industrial sized soda squirter fitted....

Does that mean it's sitting upright again?

Have a read of this http://www.stonefisk.com/doc-arc/Howto_STRIP_%20H14_SUPERWINCH.TXT Sounds like you may have a rusty shaft if I understand your issue correctly Manual is also on that site http://www.stonefisk.com/doc-arc/def_man/5-001-012_Iss%202.pdf

I would agree with your comments Si, my 110 has had two attempted thefts on it. The Hiab brigade would have had it either time. First attempted theft they were defeated by a bright yellow pedal lock that they hadn't noticed until they had turned the ignition on and second time by a newer version door barrel. The second attempt I'm not sure whether it fell into planned/targeted of just opportunist, they made a number of attempts to get in and also drove past it many times waiting for the road to be quiet .... either way they were still foiled by a very simple problem. Any measure taken is worthwhile if it slows them down.

This is quite difficult to achieve. Just locking the hand brake on won't work as you can remove a drive member on the rear axle and just roll her away, if you were to lock both props somehow (perhaps locking centre diff) you could remove a drive member from each axle and still roll her away. It's only 5 bolts to remove a drive member and doesn't need the wheel to be removed if you have steel wheels. The only real way would be to have a lock acting on the actual hub/brake disk. PS the Rat Trap lock looks to basically just lock the rear output flange of the transfer box effectively doing as you say but is very expensive.

A man with your engineering skills and access to a well equipped workshop like you have at work should be able to knock one up Ed.

Don't make assumptions .... he may be So he might not have internet access t the moment

I have a Land Rover reconditioned box in mine (I bought it from someone on here) has the metal label saying Land Rover reconditioned and looked to be unused when I bought it. Changing from 1st to 2nd isn't great when cold but is fine once warmed up, I'm running MTF94 oil.

Removing the sounder I believe Chris

Doh! Very good point Si

Looks good, if the cantilever didn't prove to be rigid enough you could have a belt each end of the track and still use one stepper by sending the drive down one of the rails the torch head is running on. Although it would mean more parts which would put the price up, the cantilever idea seems to work well enough for some of the industrial cnc plasma cutter systems for cutting large plates of steel so is probably fine for this .

I like the idea it could do both fixed pipe or moving pipe and the fact you have eliminated one of the expensive parts of most machines which is the scroll chuck. Having it run from a microcontroller is an interesting idea Would be nice to keep the option of a computer controlling it as well just in case, but if it's a kit then I suppose you choose what to use when you build.

Just thought, you could combine ideas and have your clamps with teeth on the outside for a toothed belt to run on and you'd have no chance of slippage. .... actually maybe I misunderstood and that was what you meant Si

I wonder if the reason it's for 4" and above is because on a small pipe there isn't enough belt in contact with the pipe to prevent slipping? EDIT: Neat idea though

The plasma tube notchers I have seen all rotate the tube in a chuck, in my mind they woud be more useful if the tube stayed still. I know this would make it much more complex to make but it would allow you to work on tubes that are really long or already have a bend or two added to them. What do you think Simon? Would it be possible?

Good point, a similar model to how 3d printers get sold, either as a kit or a very expensive built machine.

I think you'd find a lot of people would love a cnc plasma cutter, but I also think a large percentage would also get the hump when they didn't get perfect results on the first ever cut. You'd be doing a heck of a lot of phone support .....