discojmz

ah ok. thanks for that. i thought there must be some way around it but you never know until you ask on a slight aside, in that case do lifted freelanders have narrower track width or suffer uneven tyre wear?

strange. i read in a few places recently that it should ride level or slightly nose up and never down (down causes snaking especially in twin axle trailers and excessive amounts of up or low nose weighting does it to all), a lot of trailer brakes work best level-slightly nose up too according to the same sources. definitely should be nose heavy, but not nose down is the consensus from these trailer websites but then anyone can write advice on the net... so i dno when i pick up my sankey it'll be slightly nose down, but unladen... a bit concerned about how it'll tow but theyre nose heavy anyway i get the impression that weight distribution is more important than 'angle' to a large extent

only other negative i can think of with indy suspension with particularly long arms to it (not that i really know much so its more of a question) is when wheels articulate downwards, do you not lose an appreciable amount of track width? moving in an arc, they come closer to the centre line surely? like i say, i dont know, but im interested jim

dont sugarcoat it or anything will ya Daan

without goin out in the cold sankeys tow at 26 inches, i think the top of my tow plate on the disco, standard height everything gives a 22inch tow height so my sankey is slightly nose down just for the moment, ball hitch is on the bottom of that normal tow height for most things seems to be about 14-16 inches i dont like it. it's too low

if the engine starts and idles, and nothing happens when you push the throttle, on an EDC, then somewhere along the line from your fly by wire throttle, it isnt flying by wire as it were. so it could be wiring, more likely the evil EDC injection pump

may sound daft mate but is it driveable/useable (even if i can appreciate, not on the road) perhaps if you gave it a good thrashing at kirton or the like you would get some kinda second wind with it through its sheer ability? just a thought. for what it's worth, it's been a very impressive build that has inspired such as me. jim

will any of these direct drive pump arrangements perchance fit a discovery? (engine seems to be a lot further forward in the chassis than a defender)

i nearly bought the hoist but then wondered what id use it for and already have a pillar drill... did get a 160w dremel type multitool though which is great, and a petrol water pump

yeah theyre the capped ones if theyre no better (functionality and protection-wise) then i'll get the normal ones.

both are listed for defender, disco 1 and rrc by the way

are you positive? they look like the end is closed in to me

that's right, nuts more specifically those useful ones that hold the round turny bits on your vehicle need some for steel wheels because i only have the ones for my alloys and as we all know, theyre not suitable for steels but there are two types i see. normal galvy what look like deeper ones that are fully enclosed or capped second ones are 2x the price of the normal ones. which when i want 20-23 of either makes a difference. but are the 2nd ones particularly superior. i see them on a lot of trucks. i suppose they protect the end of the stud thread from corrosion? are they any easier to actually work with or just look nicer? discuss

bung it where the older defenders have them, under the front seats. drivers side, or both if you want the extra capacity

my bosses late 300tdi 90 and his newer TD5 90 have both had factory remote central locking. might be worth looking into. it might not be all maplin (although maplin make good stuff usually at a good price)

show off! mine are just boring metal. so i painted them black hammerite

a new floor available from paddocks is about 50 quid plus the vat mate think the crossmember bits for under the floor are about 8-14 quid each too if you needed them ps. ive seen a lot worse!

think the point was Matt, if theres nothing in big neon lettering that says not for use with hot water, then you havent misused the product at all anyway im not one for being dishonest either, not at all if i can possibly help it so i know what you mean dont think theres a definitive answer to your question. I didnt break our 15y/o pressure washer, my mate didnt break his cheapy one, but some people evidently have.

im with TM and sotal. just cant help some people. at least now i know if i buy from B&Q i can rest easy that its a company that wont cause me arseache if a product is faulty

ive done it without problem but dont let that be a guarantee cant say i stuck my hand over the end of the lance to test the temperature but the hose felt warm and it cleaned an engine, gearbox off very well with the traffic film remover turned on

nope just tell them not to stand so close to it

yes and no lifting 2inches does let you fit bigger tyres... so long as the vehicle stays put and you have your suspension welded solid. as soon as the suspension flexes, you'll be catching bodywork quite significantly

drop any anti roll bars (bout 17mm af bolts iirc) rear: disconnect shock absorbers, may or may not need to disconnect axle a bar ball joint (30mm spanner) and hi lift it up to your hearts content. both springs should dislocate ready for swapping them out front: disconnect shockers, undo steering box end of panhard rod (24mm spanner iirc) and jack up as with rear and do the pair at once that's how i found it easiest anyway

land rover's line on the HD springs is if you fit the HD rear springs, you should remove the rear anti-roll bar anyway

as someone mentioned above, because we have the house, the farm, all the farm vehicles and the cars with NFU we get regular home visits from one of the partners from the local office to discuss 'our needs' and any ways of getting the premium down, all sorts. now if that's not a personal well tailored service i dont know what is! I certainly know who my business insurance will be with in 6 months time! plus my pretty basic car insurance policy was 700 quid or so for my 3dr disco 200tdi. i was 20 at the time with 3years NCD but that was fully comp, 3rd party to drive any other vehicles at all, european cover, trailer/horsebox cover up to £1500 i think it was. car contents cover, and basic breakdown cover (easy and cheap to upgrade package), plus some other bits i cant remember. oh yes, it's insured still when it's off road, and not that i have any radical modifications at all, but i was told that they wont have a problem with purposeful mods at all, anything particularly bonkers would also be ok if proven safe (engineer's report etc) but i got the impression we were talking really bonkers there.