Tanuki

Black smoke means more fuel is going in than air - I'd be looking at things like delaminated air-hoses between the turbo/intercooler/engine, or possibly a hose has blown-off in the heat of the moment so 'measured air' [that is, air that's gone through the MAF-sensor] is leaking away before it gets to the engine.

There *could* well be some significant and problematic differences: sump/bottom-of-engine closure, DMF, crankshaft where the torque-converter/DMF mounts to it, crank-position-sensor (if operated from the flywheel/torque-converter), the oil-system, even the vibration-damper on the nose of the crank.

You can de-turbo a 200/300TDi relatively simply: just remove the turbo/pipework, and blank off the connection on the "boost compensator" part of the injection-pump. This will give workable fuelling - basically the boost-compensator senses when there is boost from the turbo (if it's there..) and adds extra fuel to give more power. If there's no boost the boost-compensator won't add extra fuel so you don't have to worry about overfuelling. You shouldn't have any problems with the standard Series transmission behind a de-turboed 200/300: people fit Rover V8s to standard Series transmissions without them exploding - though it has to be said, a good-enough idiot can always break anything if they try hard enough! Sympathetic and understanding driving-style counts for a lot. Personally, if I was re-engining a "series" I'd probably go for the 2-litre-turbo *petrol* engine from a Discovery MPi (did you get those over in .za?) - Light, powerful, and just *loves* to rev!

Intake airflow restriction is always my biggest reason to dislike the idea of having a snorkel plumbed-up for the 99.99% of mileage when it's not needed. Turbo-Diesels like to freely 'fill their lungs' with fresh air and restricting this freedom will result in poorer performance/worse economy. Go for whichever option is easiest to disconnect when you don't need it!

The aviation industry is where you should be looking: http://www.cargoequipmentcorp.com/Series-L-Track-Fittings-s/70.htm I fitted out a 'special' BAe146 with this sort of stuff a couple of decades back. It got to fly through the "Iceland volcano" dust-cloud without issues.

Apparent overheating, belt issues, and no heat from heater? Are you sure the water-pump is turning freely? And is the rotor still attached to the spindle? (I've had experience of the 2.5 BMW/Range-Rover lump where the rotor's dropped off the spindle inside the engine).

When faced with this sort of thing from front-desk staff at dealers I've just said "Oh, just grow up". If they argue I ask to speak to someone rather higher up the food-chain. A couple of years back one of our guys got given a Ford Mondeo Estate as a 'loaner' while his 2-month-old Disco4 was in the shop being fixed [persistent EML indications and loss-of-power]. We derived some satisfaction from emailing the dealer later that day with the precise coordinates of the remote Northumberland field from which they could recover said Mondeo [bogged to its floorpan, clutch burned-out]. We subsequently got a full-purchase-price refund on the faulty Disco after a threat of court action. I wonder what poor sap they resold it to?

MIG? TIG?? Or dab-it-and-hope-for-the-best stick-welder? Whatever you use, preparation and 101%-cleanliness is essential: use a needlegun to clean down to *true* bare-metal on the old parts [this is invariably where you get to discover the rust is far more extensive than you first thought and you need to cut out a lot more...]. Unless the old metal is truly clean you can't weld satisfactorily: a stick-welder will give 'pigeon-****' spattery results and MIG/TIG will wander off-track when it finds any rust. Equally, unless the old metal you're welding to is sensibly solid and of a similar remaining thickness to the new metal you're letting-in you'll just blow holes in the old stuff.

if you've had a total-fluid-loss it could be either the master (there'll be fluid soaking into the carpet/sound-deadening felt in the footwell) or the slave (fluid drips out of the wading-plug hole on the bellhousing). Either way, the sensible thing is to replace both master and slave cyls: once one fails the other is not long behind it. They're not expensive - the biggest 'cost' is the time/effort to do the work. And remember to put the slave back in with the bleed-nipple at the top... plenty of people have refitted the slave with the nipple-at-the-bottom because 'it gives easier access for bleeding' without realising that air rises so the air-bubbles in the fluid will be at the top of the slave-cylinder so you can never hope to get them out if the nipple's fitted at the bottom!

Truth is, any kind of 'treatment' on rusty metal will only ever be a stop-gap. Slugging it with an air-powered needle-gun to get the rusty crusts off (You can't really get the grot off with a wire-brush...) then pickling in 'Molar strength' Phosphoric Acid [seriously strong... it devours both rust and human flesh with equal enthusiasm...] is about the best you can do with the existing metal; for a long-term fix you need to cut out the rusty metal then use a 'joddler' to form a step then MIG in new metal, before acid-descaling and a Zinc-Chromate acid-etch. A relative was senior corrosion-chemist for Britoil north-sea rigs in the 1980s: he always said it was much easier to control corrosion on his oil-rigs than on his late-1950s magnesium-alloy-panels-over-steel-tubular-frame Bristol road-car!

Check the tightness of the bolts that hold the propshaft to the diff input-flange, and also the bolts that hold the prop to the transmission-brake. A periodic "click" from my 90 when pulling away (and sometimes when releasing the footbrake after applying the handbrake so the vehicle rolled slightly forwards/backwards until stopped by the handbrake) went away once I'd tightened said bolts to the recommended torque.

In a previous world we scavenged a 205-litre drum of AVTUR or Jet.A-1, but now I use paraffin for general cleaning - and when it gets a bit mucky I strain it through a depth-filter [as used on John Deere tractors] and sling it in the central-heating-oil tank. 5 litres of oily paraffin in 1000 litres of 28-second heating-kero isn't an issue. For some things - specially anything even vaguely electrical like starter-motors - IPA [that's IsoPropyl Alcohol, not India Pale Ale] is better since it's less likely to cause damage to insulation. Blow-dry with a compressed air line ! The other option is to use the dishwasher!!! a couple of cycles set to the 'maximum hotness' program works really well to clean up things like cylinder-heads, intake-plenums and other alloy-bits.

A 1.2 Disco box is one solution. You may need to use the gearbox a bit more to keep the engine/turbo 'on the boil' so to speak - but what's wrong with snicking down to 4th at the beginning of a long hill and letting the engine rev a bit? [TBH I've always thought that the best match to a turbodiesel is an autobox with a 'slippy' torque-converter and a hairtrigger kickdown]

What holds the bush to the end of the arm? I don't see any undoable-ness where the end of the arm fits into the bush. Is it bonded-on or something?

Swap the arms then - without touching the alignment - take it to a decent tyre-place [*not* one of the big 'chain' tyre-pushers] for an alignment. Considering the cost of tyres these days, I'd much rather spring £25 on an alignment than wreck a pair of tyres through a "caveman" alignment approach. p.s. make sure the arms you buy are of decent quality - there are a *lot* of 'Britpart-quality' replacement parts in the normal-road-car marketspace too! A friend's just gone through three cheap ebay-special camshaft-position-sensors on his Opel - all of which still threw errors - before giving up and buying genuine.

"Open-at-one-end" or similar sections are hated by galvanizers - firstly they can't guarantee the molten zinc will go the full distance into the section, and second when they hoick it out after dipping they can't guarantee all the zinc will drain out! I recall being shown a part of a galvanised tube-steel gate which weighed around 75 Pounds when it went into the galv tank but nearer 200 when it came out - half the tubes were *completely full* of zinc that hadn't come out due to inadequate drainage. The galvaniser in question charged per pound of zinc; it turned out to be a very expensive gate.

I don't think there are any current 'series' overdrive-options available that are both long-term-reliable and cost-effective! Have you thought of switching to 3.54 diffs?? Or fitting an Ashcroft high-ratio transfer box kit?

Is the coil you used the right one? Where did you get it from? Does it have a Bosch part-number?? "Modern" coils are designed to run off 6 or 8 volts and work with a ballast-resistor to drop the 'excessive' voltage. I suspect your S1 doesn't have a ballast-resistor (they were a 1960s introduction...) so you're putting 12V into a coil not designed for it - which will make it get hot !

I'd go #1 for a voltmeter - coupled with a mechanism to hard-disconnect all non-relevant-to-running-the-engine loads [stuff like winches, lights, heater-blowers] when the battery voltage drops below 13 Some Land-Rovers had a "Voltage-sensitive relay" to disable the heated rear window when the battery voltage dropped - you could use one of these to trigger an "accessories" relay? If you stall the engine you always *need* to have enough juice in the battery to restart it. In my serious towing experiences I've never suffered gearbox/torque-converter overheating - it's all down to driving style [shift-down early! shift-down often! Remember, lots of revs mean good coolant/oil circulation and the engine-driven fan providing airflow over the radiators.... ]. An adjustable rev-limiter (the type that cuts back the fuelling by 'missing' an injection rather than the ignition-missing variety) is another thing to consider - set it to whatever RPM your engine delivers peak-power then you can mash the throttle and let the electronics stop things getting out of hand. It worked just great on a nitrous-oxide-injected autobox Volvo 164E towcar of my acquaintance.

Are there any gurgling/swishing/whining noises from the fuel-pump? You could have on-their-way-out injector copper washers, allowing gas bubbles in the fuel-line which will cause poor starting/running. If it doesn't start again, do the "fuel system purge" cycle [pump throttle pedal rapidly when you turn the ignition on, then leave it for a few minutes to purge - you should hear the in-tank fuel pump whirring] a few times to expel any trapped wind, then see if it makes a difference.

Definitely do/get a load-test done on the battery. How old is the battery you have? You can sort-of do this load-test yourself: turn the ignition on, then turn the headlights (main beam) & heated-rear-window on This should get you around 30 Amps of battery drain. Leave it like this for half an hour - then measure the battery terminal-voltage! [Half an hour's drain at 30 Amps is 15 Amps/Hour. The battery in a Disco is either 85 or 110 Amp/Hour rated - and shouldn't show significant voltage-sag if you only drain it by 20% of its fully-charged capacity] Alternatively, a battery-shop will have a clamp-on load tester that does the same sort of thing but more scientifically!

   In post-2000 vehicles the tacho (along with things like the engine-temperature gauge and revcounter and airconditioning-brick) are driven by the engine-management or body-functions computers.... which like to be informed about engine RPM if only so they can signal 'increase fuelling - I'm about to engage the aircon - expect to see the RPM fluctuate a bit' to the engine-management.

Before wasting money and time randomly replacing any other parts - get the fault-codes read! It both worries and perplexes me when people start replacing parts *before* reading the diagnostic codes: that's rather like booking yourself in for a kidney/liver/brain transplant, hip-replacement or appendix-removal before asking your doctor what might actually be wrong with you! In this case, a fault-code reading will at least tell you which corner of the vehicle is the problem.

It'll depend on what market the vehicle was originally built for [note: not the country it was first registered in!] The precise spec varied country-to-country - this is likewise a perpetual issue when trying to work out when a particular Disco will have a "spider" or not.

A failed diode in the alternator rectifier-pack can cause this.