I thought the year of registration in the UK had to reflect the year of manufacture these days?
Anybody selling them for the same price as a Puma is in the UK, is having a laugh, I know what they cost to buy! They are a lot cheaper than a Puma here... (still a few 300s available any colour as long as it is white, apply within!)
You won't get a factory '08 300Tdi as they stopped building them in '06 any that are still around should be 2006 model year but yes there are some still unsold. Usually any colour as long as its white, and with aircon fitted.
I would be interested to know how they get around the emission regulations for the UK market though...
I have seen a handful of 300 Tdi engines where the inlet valve on No 1 cylinder wears the seat down and gives much the effect you describe. I hope it isn't that but it might well be
I have a Draper 25L compressor which "in theory" will power the rattle gun as it is quoted as about 5CFM and the rattle gun as needing about 4. In practice it might achieve a 50% duty cycle with the compressor flat out if you are lucky so I guess the moral of the story is buy something twice as big as the specs would suggest you need!
The battery powered rattles seem to work well but are 'kin expensive, and I am too mean to buy one for the amount I need to use it (not a lot). If I need to change wheels away from air, I use a breaker bar to crack them off half a turn and an 18V electric drill with a socket on the end to speed up the whizzing nuts off and on part, which works perfectly well.
I think you have a couple of inches clearance because there are ribs under the floor IIRC and then a space under that but yes a drill bit with a bunch of washers on so it can only just go through the floor would seem to be a sensible precaution
Jim there is a post somewhere on here by GBMUD giving measurements for this very reason
I thought it was in the tech archive but not 100% sure about that.
Yes as said it is the clutch switch. Easy way to tell is disconnect it (just pull the connector off the switch) for a while and see if the problem goes away!
You probably have a dodgy wheel speed sensor which is triggering the ABS when braking. I had this with my 1996 Discovery. New sensor required but first you need a Testbook to tell you which one.
Yes in theory you can, in practice when driving with one prop off there tends to be an awesome amount of backlash in the transmission so probably best to drive carefully to avoid overloading anything. In terms of the torque through the transmission it should not be a problem as in the higher gears there is much less torque through the transmission than when giving it sh*& in low range with both ends connected
There is stainless and stainless. You can get cheap rubbish stainless which rusts if you leave it out in the rain (£1 shop knife and fork set) right up to marine grade 316 stainless like my outboard motor tilt rams are made of, which won't rust even if permanently immersed in salt water, and various other grades in between.
Guess which end of the scale exhaust pipes are likely to be made of but I'd guess a 316 grade exhaust pipe would probably need a second mortgage