BogMonster

No yours is a different colour, Ralph's is blue all over If you get new Arles Blue paint for the doors, which is what I assume you are doing, it won't match that anyway, not by a country mile, as all the old (non lacquered) solid colours are terrible for fading. Five gallons of T-Cut might make it look vaguely similar

Yeah I can see that could have some interesting effects on the braking performance I suppose I now have a rice-burning pickup

A lot of D2's don't have the mechanism in the t/box though. Mine is one of them

I think it's a strip and rebuild of the box but not 100% sure. In other words it can be done but is not what you would call a "straight swap" - maybe worthwhile if you had an old box to cannibalise for bits though.

Amazing!

It's all in the LR4x4 tech archive http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=86

attached with thanks to MPB

Taking the battery off doesn't automatically trigger the SRS light as Ivan said, but what sotal said is also right - once the system detects a fault, it won't automatically reset due to the SRS being a safety system, it has to be plugged into a computer. The classic mistake is to take the airbag off to centre the steering wheel after work on the steering, and then go for a drive to check wheel alignment with the bag out to save putting it back in and taking it out again. Unfortunately this trips an open circuit fault code on the air bag circuit which then needs to be plugged into a computer to reset it. No prizes for guessing how I know that... Unplugging one of the fuses will probably have set a fault code which just needs to be cleared.

Nope... Call me Mr Thicky if you like

Boggy? Maybe they do - Japanese market is not ROW spec. ROW spec is for the export markets with no emissions legislation etc - like here.

Lost your stockings Jim?

Temperature sender? Would make it run very rich. I think - though not 100% certain - that the sender which feeds the ECU is not the same as the sender which feeds the gauge so if this is the case, the gauge may say it is normal. I think if the sender is disconnected or not working the ECU also defaults to a set temperature for fuelling, which is probably rich. Oxygen sensors (if fitted) - likewise would usually make it run very rich if defective. And finally check the timing - I had a rough running problem with mine and discovered somebody had set the timing after TDC not before TDC which doesn't do much for economy, power or smooth running

Just to confuse matters, none of the 300Tdi autos for ROW export markets had the EDC system, even late ones, and the manual versions didn't have it either. Just in case anybody thought they understood it perfectly

I now have one by email thanks to mpb

No. Bellhousing and I think probably input shaft are different. It is slightly possible you might get away with changing the bellhousing and input shaft from the old box into the new one but the later (Td5 age) boxes have bigger bearings etc and I am not sure if it is a straight swap or not, I can't say I know of anybody round here having done it. No doubt the gearbox guru Mr Ashcroft would be able to tell you though

No offence taken - I was just saying most people will take the cheapest option available at the time I actually thought the Td5 ECU was cheaper than a main harness but I have not checked the prices for a while.

One thing I forgot - check/change the viscous coupling (or take a spare one) and also the state of the radiator matrix! - either/both contribute to overheating problems as s1s describes above. New thermostat is no bad thing either, for a fiver.

Ta, I know how it fits (fitted 3) just need the template to drill the holes in the right place relative to the wing duct

Welcome Clutch is probably sensible at that mileage. Depending on the age I would also check the gearbox mainshaft splines are OK, unless it is new enough to have the drilled input gear fitted in which case it won't be a problem. Of the rest of the list - maybe the core plug is sensible if you have had problems. Wheel bearings - I would strip, inspect and grease, only replace them if they look iffy. Track rod ends are either worn or they are not, it isn't something that will suddenly go. Coolant hoses - again, inspect and replace as required but they should probably be OK unless they are showing signs of perishing. A good service checking for things like excessive backlash in the drivetrain (diffs CVs etc) which might point to any problems brewing, and that should be about it, obviously change all the filters, drain the sedimentor if fitted, check the brakes over etc etc.

I disagree. Most people (and I have seen quite a lot of these) get away with changing the injector harness and cleaning the main loom plugs out with switch cleaner, and they do that because the main harness is about £500 and a massive job to change. I know what I'd do if it was my money - £500 buys a lot of cans of switch cleaner...

Yes you want STC4096K, though I am not aware of the tensioner and idler being different between the kits. You should have plain tensioer and idler pulleys (with no lip to retain the belt) and a crank pulley with a lip on each edge to retain the belt, otherwise it is wrong. Bearmach certainly have the right ones, as that is where we get ours from, I don't know about Haddocks.

Best solution is to buy an engine which has the wiring on the outside I never did understand why they did that, it was one of those ideas like electric handbrakes where you just KNOW it is going to cause bother.

No idea - I know the ones you are on about, found on most Japanese 4x4s I have looked at, and with what appears to be a much more logical way of operating! From RAVE: "The brake pedal is connected to a vacuum assisted mechanical servo which in turn operates a tandem master cylinder. The front disc brake calipers each house four pistons, these pistons are fed by the secondary hydraulic circuit. The rear disc brake calipers each house two pistons, these are fed by the primary hydraulic circuit via a pressure reducing valve." and "3. Pressure reducing valve To maintain the braking balance, pressure to the rear axle is regulated by a Pressure Reducing Valve (PRV) This PRV is of the failure bypass type, allowing full system pressure to the rear axle in the event of a front circuit failure. It is sited on the left inner wing [fender]." So I don't know if it actually varies the brake pressure applied to the rear according to deceleration, the phase of the moon or what Land Rover's technical people had for brekkie, or perhaps just reduces it by a set proportion regardless of whether the vehicle is empty or full of lardy Americans in the back. According to various RAVEs I have, it is fitted to Discoverys, Defender 90s and "some Defender 110s if required to conform with market requirements".

Does anybody know if an electronic version of the template for the Safari snorkels can be downloaded from anywhere as a PDF or graphic, to be printed? My 110 needs a new wing fitted due to an altercation with a passing lump of concrete (yes really - the vehicle was stationary and a concrete block crashed into it) and I would like to drill the snorkel mounting holes before the wing panel is painted and fitted, but I can't measure the old wing until the snorkel is off the vehicle and I don't have the template. Ta

3A is 2003 model year Mo, though by "prefix" I guess you mean the bit prefixing the six digit serial number at the end i.e. SALLDVBF73A123456 MA 1995 TA 1996 VA 1997 WA 1998 XA 1999 YA 2000 1A 2001 2A 2002 3A 2003 4A 2004 5A 2005 6A 2006 7A 2007 and yep you guessed it... 8A 2008