Quagmire

What kind of setup you running? Ms1 with EDIS presumably? What do the logs show?

Registered and supported. Good luck with it!

My Dads factory v8 110 is lovely to drive! I quite like the lt85, it's positive and I wouldn't say it was noisy... It kind of goes "snick snick" when you change gear, quite a nice action really.

Just to add to the above- one of our fleet is a petrol 1.2 turbo Polo (64 reg). I regularly get 60-65mpg out of that which matches or exceeds quoted figures. The (65 plate) diesel golf we have temporarily however never meets its book figures...

Dunno, but the wife and I have just opted for the petrol version of our new car just in case (that and every other vehicle we own is petrol too).

I love the 2.25 in my series 2 - which will give me around 20mpg on a run, it sounds lovely and pulls extremely well. It can also be left for months at a time (shame on me) and will still fire up at the first turn on the key. However... the same engine was factory fitted to my early 90, and whilst again it did extremely well and was very very reliable, it was never a comfortable experience merging into fast moving traffic on an a-road or motorway. It therefore came out and was replaced with a 3.5. I fitted the v8 for the same reason as a lot of people fit Tdi's - namely ease of fitting, cheapness of parts and a big bonus for me was that by comparing to my Dad's factory v8 110, I was able to get a pretty factory looking installation. It's all down to whatever floats your boat/breaks down for you best numbers-wise I guess.

Perfick. Thank you!

Hi guys, can anyone confirm if the hotwire stepper fitted to the rear of the plenum ala 3.9 style uses a delphi 4 way connector like this? http://www.simtekuk.co.uk/product.php/4_way_male_connector/?k=:::2362020 Thanks

Instead of doing the usual and leaning out in the low load areas of the map, just up the ve values to add a load in. At least I thinks its that easy... Maybe regard timimg too? A guru from here can confirm/deny my suspicions...

Depends if you like them or not!

Rust within 30cm of a suspension component was a fail I thought. Someone more knowledgeable will be able to confirm!

For starters what value is your req_fuel set to and whats your VE table like? Also define in a bit more detail the statement "when I drive..." Is this afr seeen when you drive at a specific speed/load? all speed/loads? or just when you jab the throttle for example...

I give it 5 mins before the MS word is mentioned. To answer your question properly my brother has a t16 in his lightweight which is basically the same engine but with a turbo attached. He is using the factory ECU so I can't see why you would have problems. I will point him in the direction of this thread for his comments. ..

1 each end

And part is: http://www.johncraddockltd.co.uk/series/series-3/parts/fuel-system/605191-air-filter-element-v8-carb.html My filter box is actually from a rover p6 and the official rover part number is GFE1032

Hey! That's my engine bay!

I used the dynax s50 and dynax UB products from bilt hamber recently on one of my other cars, they were very nice to use! Can't comment on longevity yet as it has only been a few months.

http://www.tunerstudio.com/index.php/downloads

Version 2.6.19 is what you want.

Key is to drive in as many different areas of the table at constant speed/load as you can - i.e once you are in a part of the table try to keep the engine there, VE analyze works a lot better when you are not constantly transitioning in and out of cells. Also try to autotune in the same conditions - if you tune on a cold day and then later on a hot day you will find your table ends up different. MS applies the ideal gas law to fuelling to account for differences in air density due to temperature, but it does seem to be a bit too aggressive and you can end up chasing your tale by tuning one hot day and then another cold. Have a google on msextra.com for strategies on how to combat this. Forget about tuning any of the accel enrichments, warm up enrichment etc until your ve table is correct and you can see that the actual afr is consistently matching or at least being very close to your target afr.

Seam sealing is normally done these days with polyurethane like Sikaflex or Tiger seal. Filling actual proper gaps I have no idea on though...

Trouble is the freelander one has the more common "D" shape drive, whereas the plenum I have uses what I would call a "blade" drive (just like the end of a plain bladed screwdriver). This is what seems to cause the price difference!

Thanks Fridge, yeah switching to MAPdot instead is a good idea for now at least, I'll report back when I find a suitable replacement! Cheers

Thanks Robert! I realise I could just use any old tps from an electrical point of view my main wonder is the bolt hole spacing and use of the three pin junior timer connector. Ideally I'd like to find a bolt on replacement that uses this same connector- I can't believe it was only used on LR products! Or knowing LR maybe I should... Ha! I the meantime I will see what, if anything, I can do to it to get a smoother reading. To be honest perhaps I should just bite the bullet and fit an easy/cheap to source alternative now, with the correct plug and be done with it. Cheers

Guys, After MS2ing my Rover P6 a few weeks ago I have finally got round to taking it out for a proper run tonight. It goes like a missile but it looks like my TPS is a bit ropey... the Thottle position gauge dances all over the shop and reviewing the logs its triggering massive doses of Accel enrichment as a result, causing the car to jerk about. The part number I need is ERR4278, however these cost a fortune! Does anyone know of a more reasonably priced equivalent with the same connector, or if not can I simply use the older style one with the wires? I'd rather not do this though as it will mean mucking my loom about. Thanks!