Quagmire

Google "microcat online" and you should get a Russian page which has the LR microcat parts catalogue on it. Or better yet download and install micro cat from somewhere, again Google is your friend here.

I bought a rover p6 as my new daily for the same reason, my 90 is a v8, as are my dads 110 and 101. I agree with the above, leave the SD1 alone! Something like 95% of them have been scrapped already would be a shame to destroy another...

Aren't petrol engines a lot more forgiving too? What I mean is any old numpty can fit ms to a petrol engine and run about with the timing out of whack and the fuelling all over the place and it will (most of the time) run, albeit badly with no long term effects. Do the same with a diesel and it will go pop, no? That would be a major point stopping me from releasing something to the general public.

Bowie's method is the approved v8forum method, and I'd be doing it that way.

Damn phone. Study up= tidy up

Sequential only really helps study up emissions at idle at low rpms. At higher rpms most factory systems stop sequential injecting as everything is simply moving too quick...

I use blue hylomar!

I have a small notebook for my 90, and I record all major servicing I do in there along with the date and mileage. My current daily driver is a Rover 3500S and after bringing it back to life after it had been left sitting in a garage for ten years I too have been bitten by the spreadsheet bug. I have a file that records all parts and part number cross references I have come across, all servicing and mileage. I record my fuel consumption using the fuelly app from fuelly.com. It has dropped off a bit recently to 23.5mpg. Not bad for a 3.5 on carbs though

You sure your MS is not setup to switch when grounded? What happens if you earth the relevant pin, does it changeover then?

Setting the fuel map to zero is what you would do if you were using non injected (mixer ring) lpg. With injected lpg you have two ways to do this as you have the lpg ecu already. 1- forget map switching and wire the lpg ecu in exactly as it was with the Lucas setup I.e. intercepting and adjusting the pulse widths on gas . 2- forget the lpg ecu and use ms to switch maps and fire injectors.

V8 and despair are mutually exclusive things...

Here's my conversion from a petrol 2.25 to a 3.5. As I say to anyone else who asks this question - read lots and mentally walk through the job from start to finish a few times, making notes or a task list if you have to. Think about all the parts you will need and get them in advance. Nothing worse than a job coming to a stop because you need something tiny like a spigot bush! http://www.v8forum.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4483

From what I have read lambda is lambda whatever fuel you use, AFR is just a numerical conversion of that lambda value to give you something more meaningful to work with. You can therefore just tune using petrol afrs as if you were running on petrol. This saves reconfiguring anything or any confusion with fuel ratios

You can ditch the AFM and the ms will work out everything based on manifold air pressure. It also uses the tps to control things like acceleration enrichment, fuel cut etc depending on your settings...

Is anyone registered on fuelly.com? Some of the stats on there make for interesting reading and having the phone app makes it easy to record fill ups... I have both our cars registered although haven't filled up the 90 and tracked it yet, only the VW...

Will keep everyone updated- may be some time though as my wife is driving the car everyday and I am having to use her car at the mo as my company has moved and height restriction on new car park is too low. This virtually rules out me making any changes that might cause the 90 to not run. Plan to resume later this summer when I have purchased another (lower) vehicle and the 90 is not being used everyday....

I am slowly working my way towards lpg injection I fitted a new inlet manifold last weekend that I have pre-drilled for injector nozzles. Most lpg injectors are low impedance vs most petrol injectors being high impedance (except flapper). If you look at the peak and hold boards on jbperf.com I have confirmation from Jean Belanger that they should allow you to run both types of injector, simply switching the positive feed between the two. All I need to do now is order a vap unit, some piping and the peak and hold boards...

I'm sorry Nige but I don't see how a NB can give a better tune than a WB. A NB can still be fooled by excess rich reading as lean and other stuff just like a WB can, after all (as far as I know) a WB actually has a NB sensor at the heart of it. If a pilot had two lights to tell him to fly higher or lower, and another pilot had a whole range of lights to tell him how much higher or lower he needed to fly, which would you rather be a passenger of? What I am trying to say is that the WB can still be wrong, but you will in general get a lot more information to help you decide if it is wrong - going back to the case of rich reading as lean, you can normally see things heading rich in the logs before you get a supposedly "lean" spot. I agree that WBs are not infallible, and just like most things MS it simply means people need to: A) Have to have a good starting basis (such as your base map ) B) Have done some reading- well a fair bit of reading C) Take things slowly. I recently (last week) changed my inlet manifold for a later style one, ditched the flapper injectors and resistor box and went for something more modern and non-LR. With VEAL live and my WB I was able to retweak my VE tables in a few hours of driving about running errands over the bank holiday. It was imperative that the 90 was running well by Tuesday as my wife is now driving it, whilst I have to drive her Polo to work everyday (stupidly low height restriction in new company car park ). Not trying to sound argumentative at all here, after all without yours and FF's inspirational posts on MS I would still be chugging around on carbs! I'm just chucking in my two pence and trying to defend the poor WB sensor, mine has done me proud

Disco manual says something like tighten to 61Nm, back off 90 degrees and then tighten something tiny like 4Nm? I did the first but but don't have a small enough torque wrench so guesstimated what 4Nm was. Then the lock nut is also done to 61Nm I think.

+1 on ep90

If you check extraefi.co.uk and go to the downloads section there are a whole load of base maps to get you started. Might be worth getting them up on the screen and getting some values from there. Either that or someone will be along shortly to give you a map of their own.

I guess it could do, if the condition that triggered the light no longer exists - i.e everything now appears normal to the ECU. I bought one of the cheap orange readers for my wifes Polo some years ago as it kept throwing the engine warning light for some lambda fault code. Weird fault that we never totally fixed, tried various things. In the end I just kept on clearing it as you could clear the code and it would stay off for months before coming back again.

You can swap any rover v8 heads about. The only thing to be careful of is that the later ones which have ten bolt holes are designed for composite gaskets, whilst the earlier 14 bolt hole ones will need tin gaskets to retain your current compression ratio.

Brilliant, thanks chaps

Sorry ignore the above! Just realised you said Trim angle! So if you set fixed angle to 10, and then have your trim angle set as you do, what do you see with a timing light?