Quagmire

Ignore what I just said, I'm awake now- the factory ones must be narrowband. I was talking about wideband sensors... Normal zirconia sensors don't need anything to drive them and wire straight into the MS on the signal line. Not sure how Titania sensors work, or whether the output they produce will be something MS can deal with/expects. Fridge will probably know! Apologies for the confusion...

In a nutshell, unfortunately i don't think there is a way to make the factory sensors work with MS. The actual lambda sensors aren't driven directly by Megasquirt, rather they have a controller in charge of them, that itself then outputs a signal voltage to the MS unit. As far as I understand, the Lucas setup uses the less common Titania sensors, whereas most these days (including aftermarket types) use zirconia. Have a look at the spartan2 on 14point7.com or the innovate lc2 on the Innovate Motorsports website for more info. I have the spartan2 and the older innovate lc1, both work well and have done so in daily service for quite a few years! Especially the lc1, that's pretty old now...

Great thread - thanks for posting!

I have Ms1 and Ms2 in two rv8 powered vehicles, both on v3 boards, I have to say I prefer working with the ms2. Ms2 is needed if you want to drive a stepper air valve. Changing maps is not needed in reality, you just tune one for best power, which will usually also give you best economy if you can control your right foot! You could have a second map doing something silly with overrun fueling to give you some old school pops and bags on lifting off though

Some food for thought in here (if going with the later 4-2-1 cast manifolds):

Very cool!

+1 on this - the problem with MS is that because it is so easy to adjust you never actually finish adjusting everything - my daily has been MS'd for a couple of years now at least and I am still tweaking things here and there occasionally, its almost perfect but there's always room for improvement! Even if the stainless itself doesn't rust usually you get some transfer of steel from the tooling used to form it, this is embedded into the exhaust material and will give the rusty hue.

Good post, should help people - thanks!

You should be able to use the relay or diode method with the tach output (is it the IDM pin?) On the EDIS.

Usual way is either using a bunch of zener diodes, or using the guts of a relay: http://www.msextra.com/doc/ms1extra/MS_Extra_Hardware_Manual.htm#tachoout

Could the "nut" being referred to actually be the union on the fuel rail which you would use to connect the factory pipework to? If you are fitting rubber fuel line with hoseclips then that needs to be removed so that the fuel hose can be pushed on.

On your tps the middle pin should be signal out, one pin will be +5v in (sometimes called Vref) and the other pin will be earth. On MS the Vref comes from pin 24, the middle/signal connection into pin 22. I would make a guess that the Flapper wiring is such that red is Vref, which leaves yellow as earth and green as signal? Bowie or Fridge should be able confirm or deny this!

Honestly, that is oil smoke, nothing else... Sort the breathers so that they are as per the Rave manual and then if no joy do as Bowie says and get a compression tester and rope in a useful friend or neighbour to help you check what kind of values you are getting there. Then you will have some concrete findings to go on and can start ruling things in or out.

Update - neighbours CCTV show it being taken at 10:55 last night (19/03). Not clear enough to see the ballbags who did it though.

Guys, My dad's 110 v8 was stolen this morning from outside my parents house in Weybridge Surrey, sometime before 09:30. The police don't seem to be bothered. The vehicle is a red 110, factory v8, reg as per subject. Vehicle has an unpainted galvanised bulkhead, and unusually the rear cross is also body coloured, so that should make it easy to spot. Body has silver chequer plated wing tops and bonnet. It's running LPG on its original 3.5, sparks driven by Megasquirt, with a bluetooth module fitted and relay board. Inside it has half leather seats under black Exmoor seat covers. Front seats are heated. Please keep your eyes peeled and PM me if you see anything suspicious. I'll add photos when I get home from work. Thanks everyone

And it also depends on how much noise you like- which can be very a subjective thing...

Vapourisation is a common theme that affects v8 powered rover P6's - in this case the cam driven pump has to pull fuel quite a long way forward from the tank, and the fuel line runs along the side of the block just above the sump to the pump so is in a nice warm environment. The theory on the Rover forums is that it was never really a problem back when the cars were new, but that the addition of Ethanol in modern fuels makes it worse. On my car, back when it was carbed I fitted a facet pump to the rear of the car pushing fuel forward to the engine bay(rather than pulling) and deleted the mech pump entirely. I never had any vapourisation issues at all after that. I think having a carb with a return to the tank and an electric pump is the best way to avoid vapourisation - the circulating fuel acts as a coolant for the carb and stops it getting hot enough to vapourise.

This also improves the functionality of any cabin heater arrangement too!

I tested both of mine on compressed air before first start, both seemed to work ok. *Edit- good luck with the first start!

I would echo the comments above about discs vs drums. I fitted rear discs to my 90, and the brakes are just as good as they were previously with drums, only really noticeably better when towing and braking on long descents etc. You could argue that discs are easier to maintain, and of course with later axles you can fit fancy wheels...

With a wideband the system will refer to the AFR target table for what it needs to aim for. Not sure if it then uses the switchpoint at all, or whether it relies on the target table and uses the voltage range defined when you select what type of wideband you have? Some info on the stack here and getting it to give a calibrated output. http://www.msextra.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=122&t=32014

Right me again - everything is fitted to my 90 now, so i thought i'd do a little summing up of what I had to do. For reference my vehicle is a B-registered 90 that had a 2.25 Petrol fitted from new. These days it has a 3.5 and longstick LT77 from a Range Rover fitted. EFI'd with twin port cast exhaust manifolds. First up, crossmember - this is as everyone says - you need to weld a bit on and drill some holes. Here's a comparison between my factory crossmember and the Disco one before i modded it: I initially ordered the ESR225 Disco downpipes and y-piece. DO NOT DO THIS! The downpipes fitted ok but the y-piece is offset so that the passenger side leg is almost straight, rather than the bottom of the y being more central. This meant that although the entire system bolted up on the floor of my lounge, the centre silencer was too close to the chassis rail to fit. I then ordered the following as suggested on this thread: NTC7320 "Front downpipes and Y pipe assembly - V8 3.9 EFI non catalyst auto from GA399973 (not CSK model)" This is a larger bore than the ESR225 Disco pipes and the both legs of the Y are swept inwards so that the silencer hangs more centrally under the vehicle. Here is is slotted together on my hallway floor a few minutes after it arrived: So then i fitted this up. This is where the real fun started. The drivers side downpipe sweeps down and then angles back up. Even with the downpipes loosely bolted to the manifolds (so that they could move) it was a real struggle to get the y-piece to slot in easily. Once fitted the whole assembly was under a lot of tension like it was twisted, and it was touching the bottom of my gearbox - right on the drain plug... Eventually i bit the bullet and chopped the end of the downpipe off with my hacksaw. I cut just after the factory weld, retaining their (hopefully gastight) joint. Back under the car I offered everything up and marked out what sort of angle I needed to cut on the end to get the y-piece to hang a tad lower. This was then tacked, refitted to check and then fully welded. Downpipes still slightly loose when this was taken. I probably have around an inch of clearance now, should be enough to get the plug out - not much i can do about the filter though without whipping the y-piece off... With the front pipes all sorted it was time to sort out the rear. I had ordered a: WCE000030, EXHAUST CENTRE SILENCER TD5 90 and a: LR066423, MUFFLER - REAR I got this lot all offered up, which is harder than it sounds - the silencer is huge and isn't light either! I ended up hanging the rear section on its bracket (ESR3924) and rubber mount (ESR3172). I then chucked an old plastic toybox under the 90, which i could lift the silencer up and onto. This more or less got it at the right height to bolt everything up. Much offering up, checking and rechecking saw a bracket welded to the chassis for the front hanger on the main silencer, and a bracket made up to use the holes on the back edge of the A-frame crossmember for the rear hanger. This basically looks like a big letter J. I made some bolts to go through the crossmember to secure the bracket with some M10 studding and nuts, and the welder. The hangers on the chassis were also made from pieces of studding, shaped to suit. This is when my second head scratcher came. The entire assembly was too long, and the back edge of the resonator can was fouling the webbing between crossmember and chassis rail when the rear hanger was supporting the back end of the silencer at a decent height. I the end I got out the hacksaw again and chopped 30mm out of the silencer. This was the easiest place to do it, as apart from the silencer there are literally no straight sections anywhere in the system: So now it all hangs properly with no clashes or clonking. So what do i think? At idle it is dead quiet - This is good. At cruise it is quiet (apart from at bang on 50mph - then it seems to resonate a bit) - This is pretty good. At WOT it roars - Another good result. The vehicle seems to move a bit quicker than before. Some fuel retuning may be required I think. Overall I am very happy with the result. So here is my shopping list again in a condensed format: 1 off - NTC7320 "Front downpipes and Y pipe assembly - V8 3.9 EFI non catalyst auto from GA399973 (not CSK model)" 2 off - ETC4524, EXHAUST GASKET MANIFOLD TO Y PIECE V8EFI 1 off - WCE000030, EXHAUST CENTRE SILENCER TD5 90 1 off - LR066423, MUFFLER - REAR 1 off -ESR3737 EXHAUST DOWNPIPE OR INTERMEDIATE PIPE TO REAR SILENCER GASKET (TD5) 3 off - ESR3172, EXHAUST RUBBER MOUNT TDI - BMW 4-HOLE 1 off - ESR3294, BRACKET REAR EXHAUST 90 300TDI DEFENDER Some M10 studding, M10 nuts, threadlock. A welder. 2 off - Mikalor Supra Hose Clamp 51-55mm diameter in Full Stainless (W4) - For the slip joints. Big thanks to everyone for all the info in here, I wouldnt have got it done without it!

Now you come to mention it, Dad does have a couple of spare lt85s in his garage.... hmmm..... I'll try tweaking the pipes first I think, otherwise what was a simple exhaust swap will have got a bit out of hand!

Me again - got the NTC7320 pipes and tried to fit them all up today, on the dry run all seemed ok but when tightening up the downpipes to manifold joint everything has pulled upwards and the part where the two pipes join at the Y is now kissing the gearbox drain plug. This is a 3.5 mated to a longstick LT77. Has anyone had similar, and what did you do to resolve?

Sounds like a useful friend to have! Etch goes on anything that needs to be etched to help the paint adhere, so aluminium, zinc etc.It can also be used to good effect on steel too. Don't get it in your eye because it flipping burns! Red oxide is the old classic, although it doesn't have the heavy metal content that it used to. I'd slap this on anything steel really. The grey primer - if its high build then that would go on after your initial etch or red oxide. This has fillers in it that help level off stuff and build a layer that can be flatted back smooth easily. If its not high build, then no idea. Be aware that most primers are porous and so will not protect any metalwork from moisture without a topcoat. Try not to paint in the cold! Stay away from Hammerite as a topcoat, it chips easily. Have fun!