Quagmire

Thanks for the replies so far guys- I have no rear mounted spare fitted , and no ball hitch or drop plate- just a nato hook straight on the crossmember...

After literally a decade of not riding a bike (I used to a lot), I have gone a bit nuts and bought myself one. Now, I don't mind hooning about the local country lanes on the way to good trails etc, but my wife is less keen so driving the bikes there would be preferable. My new bike is a 29er and i don't think it will fit in the back with another bike, so does anyone have any experiences of any decent external carrying solutions for a 90- if such a thing even exists? 90 is a bog standard hardtop if that makes any kind of difference. Cheers!

Thanks, that's what I thought it was - just need to figure out the air valve now. *edit - might it be one of these? http://www.polevolt.co.uk/acatalog/info_SC4_66KIT.html

Chaps, What are the connectors used on the tps and the idle air stepper on a 4.6 Plenum? See below. I think the TPS is the same as injectors but 3-way (junior timer?) but have no idea on the idle valve. Any pointers greatly appreciated. Cheers!

On early injection vehicles all you need is a multimeter, they are a bit harder to browse the internet on though.

Just read this, highly entertaining. Good luck with your 3.9 Mr Gazzar!

Forgetting the fact that the load axis looks bonkers as you have highlighted, those VE values look a little bit all over the shop... Values are usually supposed to be fairly smooth across the table with no sudden changes.

That 46 degrees is only ever seen with the throttle fully closed at high revs - in these situations you can have a lot more advance that at WOT. At WOT it is only getting something like 30 I think? (photobucket is blocked on the vessel so cant get to or see any of my own pics). So far it has done about 3000miles with this setup and no issues at all, well, none engine related anyway No sign of pinging either, but to be honest without some form of det cans I wouldn't expect to hear anything at that kind of rpm in the P6 as it is very well sound proofed compared to a landrover... You should be able to hear a lot better. I arrived at that figure when I built the map, which basically meant taking the quoted mech adv figures for my dizzy, and using them to populate the 100kPa row. I then converted the inHg quoted for vac advance to kPa and worked those in vertically. If you are worried about adding that much just back it off a little. If you use the factory figures for advance at WOT you cant go far wrong, as they should be a little conservative.

Here's something I sent to another forum member a little while ago - might help get you started... I can't find the charger for the laptop my latest map is on, but If you go to here: http://www.classicro...16625&start=120 And scroll some way down you will get to a screenshot of the map I am running in my Rover P6. This is a 3.5, running 9.25:1 compression and using later 10 bolt heads. It goes very well indeed! If your 3.5 is a similar compression then you should be ok, if its lower (8.13) then you may need to up the advance a little bit- how much I have no idea! Just keep your ears peeled for pinging, and if in doubt, stop. I built the map using the info from here: http://www.rover-cla...e/enginev8.html and wrote about it a bit on here (I had questions about ported vs manifold vacuum): http://www.v8forum.c...e5a6c11ac7b92a9 Hope this helps, Have fun! Jamie

I may be interpreting what you wrote incorrectly - but it sounds like you are expecting physical adjustments made to the trigger wheel to be reflected on the screen? If so, thats not how it works... Setup the trigger wheel as per the various guides on here, then start the car and check with a strobe what you are really getting. Compare this real value to what you are getting on the laptop and then input the appropriate trim value. After this what you see with a strobe *should* match what you see on the screen.

Wow! Its crazy how you see newish Defenders with rusty cross members, but this is something else!

Here's a shot of the SU's on my P6 - the setup is similar to Zim's Strombergs above - the principals are the same:

Fridge is correct - no regulator on a carb setup. Piping goes Tank>pump>pass carb>drivers carb>return line>tank

I am in the process of getting my rover p6 classed as tax free. The v5 states it was registered in march 74, but I have had confirmation from the heritage centre that my chassis number left the factory on December the 31st 1973! So I have had to pay £41 for a proper certificate from the heritage bods(only proof dvla will accept apparently, apart from a letter from actual manufacturer), and I think you might incur a small fee when you update dvla, but it still saves me money overall. I could be lazy and leave it until next year, but I save some money and get the certificate in the process, which will be nice to have anyway.

My advice would be: Read. Read. Read. Tinker and plan Read Read some more Plan Plan Plan Read Fit. Success! Between here, ms extra and v8forum most questions can be answered.

As of this evening the dizzy is redundant!

Whoops! Thought you had a wideband somewhere! Must read properly in future...

I'd be interested to see what kind of fuelling a standard ecu gives- a data log would be great!

Have you bought a wolf with no top then?

Thanks Fridge! I was lucky and picked mine up for a whopping £750, a lot of car for not a lot of money!

First of all, apologies as this is not in a Land-rover, but it is a rover v8! So in preparation for me MS'ing my P6 today I started taking a look at getting some wiring in. I am going to use my old Megajolt to go ignition first, and then when I have some spare cash floating about I will go to MS and do fuel too. Trigger wheel is mounted, see the end of my thread here: http://www.classicroverforum.net/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=16625&start=105 (Nige the wheel fitted ok thanks, except I had to put it at the front of the pulley due to the power steering stuff being in the way of putting it at the back). A few facts: The battery in the P6 is in the boot. P6's are quite long. The factory ignition coil is on the passenger side wing, near the front of the engine bay. The is no space under the dash. To route cabling front to back you have to go along the drivers side of the vehicle, as this is the only place in the cabin with provision for cables to pass through crossmembers etc. The P6B fusebox is notorious for going up in smoke, so all feeds will be taken from a new fusebox I will be installing in the boot. I bought 4m worth of shielded cable, thinking it would be more than enough. Wrong! The twists and turns you have to take to get to the boot mean that I only have about 6 inches poking through into the boot space. Plan was to install the EDIS module where the current coil is, using the existing power feeds, with the MJ/MS in the boot near the battery. So can I: a) Join another bit of shielded cable to the first? b) Just use normal no shielded cable from here on. I only have 2 feet max left to run, and there is not much to cause noise at the back of the car apart from fuel pump. Is 4+metres too far anyway? Do I need to keep the EDIS module closer to the MJ/MS? Cheers all!

Exactly! Also, if it ain't broke, don't fix it!

Not sure what the benefits of that would be? You still have to run wires back instead of a tube, and you are placing a sensor somewhere hot, oily and full of vibration when it could stay cool, clean and snug in its enclosure?

I had a set of old old old flapper injectors on my v8 when I first squirted. It wouldn't start. 6 of the 8 were seized shut. A sharp tap with a hammer and suitable drift freed them off well enough to get things going. So have you pulled an injector yet to see if it squirts anything? Can you feel them clicking when cranking? If you find that they deffo are not squirting then rig a couple to test direct from 12v. Don't do this with flapper injectors though! They need a resistor in series and will not like 12v. If they don't work direct on 12v then there's your problem.

Damn phone!