Quagmire

Guys, After MS2ing my Rover P6 a few weeks ago I have finally got round to taking it out for a proper run tonight. It goes like a missile but it looks like my TPS is a bit ropey... the Thottle position gauge dances all over the shop and reviewing the logs its triggering massive doses of Accel enrichment as a result, causing the car to jerk about. The part number I need is ERR4278, however these cost a fortune! Does anyone know of a more reasonably priced equivalent with the same connector, or if not can I simply use the older style one with the wires? I'd rather not do this though as it will mean mucking my loom about. Thanks!

Fuel pressure is easy - just wire the pump to run and check at the schraeder valve. Depending on what version of MS you are using you could also pull the whole fuel rail off and run it through test mode (MS2 upwards). I think you can also test spark on MS2 as well? Havent tried it yet myself, Just had a google, looks like you can: http://www.msextra.com/doc/pdf/html/Megasquirt2_Setting_Up-3.4.pdf/Megasquirt2_Setting_Up-3.4.html See section 2.14 Then if you have a known good map that should start and run it you should *fingers crossed* be ok.

Oh and good job on getting the idle down You are right to eliminate as much as possible in these early stages and just fix one thing at a time.

You can change what the gauges are showing by right clicking on them, have a look around for the different AFR gauges. Could be that the rich running has killed your lambda sensor.. Do a search on here on how to confirm if it is alive. Is it a heated sensor?

My plenum doesn't have that extra pipe your red hose is connected to... Odd.

You need to block the ports inside that chamber, there are two holes at 90 degrees to each other so that when the IAC retracts they can communicate and air passes through them. Look down there, you will see one hole at the bottom/end of the port and one on the left. With the plate on the outside these will still be open and will account for your high idle.

Just re-read you post. When you say you blanked the IAC, did you blank off the drillings inside or just remove it and put a plate over the hole where it went?

Are you bypassing the factory IAC valve and using an external pwm controlled one? You are right about the idle screw not moving the butterfly, what it actually does is allow air to go through a drilling the bypasses the butterfly completely. To get your idle down I would start with blocking your red hose off, and then adjusting the idle screw to get a good steady idle. The pwm valve can then only add air to that. At normal idle speeds you should get around 30-40kPa vacuum. Small bore pipe shouldn't cause you any issues.

Hey Fatboy, my vacuum lines are all connected to barbed fittings screwed into the side of the ram housing, I had a spare one lying about so I swapped out a couple of the blanking plugs on mine to gain a couple of extra take off points.

OK, so i removed the valve this morning, and stuffed a deep socket wrapped in insulation tape in the hole. This proved that the engine will not idle at all without any air going through the stepper controlled bypass, proving that the valve settings were wrong. Tried to adjust the allen bolt but couldnt find a key the right size so gave up and went back to fiddling with stepper warmup settings. Eventually got it all working, however it seems that I must have my stepper wired completely backwards as I had to invert the warmup curve settings on the MS to get it to close down. It now idles at at 750rpm and now none of my PC's will talk to the car! Have been having to use MSDroid on my phone for everything. Great for checking whats going on, but adjusting the VE table with my fat fingers is fiddly to say the least! Gratuitous pic: And it is still only a 3.5 - I need to get the "4.6" machined off the plenum. Or fit a 4.6...

Guys, Have fitted a GEMS top end to my rover p6, started first time on ms2 this afternoon (good), idles at 2600rpm (bad) will be checking for air leaks in the morning, but assuming I find none how do i set the base idle? Alternatively how do I eliminate the IAC from the equation? I.e. blank it off? I know it works to a degree, in that it moves when I have tested it previously but not sure if its a settings thing or not so would like to see what idle is with it not being involved at all if possible. Thanks!

...Not to mention living with that on your conscience!

Have a look at 14point7.com and checkout their Spartan controllers. They use the 4.9 which I believe has no reference to outside air and therefore might survive wading... I have one but have not installed yet

I got a blob of acid etch primer in my eye the other day, I was on my back under the car, reached backward above my head to paint a bit and as I tilted my head my specs slid back up toward my hairline. Perfect timing, as the brush came past my face a drop went straight in my eye. It burned to say the least! 10mins of being water boarded by my wife got it out and all OK now.

Can you buy a second one and do it up yourself? This is what I ended up doing after getting fed up with various recon-box failures. Has been good as gold since! (I'll regret saying that now.)

Narrowband won't tell you a value other than lean/rich.

http://www.diyautotune.com/faq/faq.htm#howbigms

Heres mine, although the pic doesnt show it on the car: You'd have to modify the inlet to get a snorkel involved thought...

Technical question -how does it account for stuff loaded up on the truck? For example if I went nuts and strapped 20 jerrycans to my roof one day?

For - makes your lump look like a yank muscle car engine. Against - Rubbish offroad (cant do angles), fuel economy not as good as efi.

You could wire the switch so that it is an override, leaving the automagic function intact, regardless of what you have the switch doing in the cab?

This process is great, cheap and easy too. The hardest bit is being patient with the first item you do as its tempting to keep checking it... I did an air filter housing from an Sd1: http://www.classicroverforum.net/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=16625&start=135#p168888

I'd disagree with the advice of going to cheapest MOT place. Often they suck you in with a cheap MOT and then fail the vehicle on stuff that is not *really* a fail so they get some work out of it. Not so much of a problem for most LR types as we tend to know our onions a bit more than most. Sometimes. Maybe. I would go to the most reputable place.

Stainless seems to yield less (if at all) before it goes ping? Its usually good to have some warning. I use steel bolts and copper grease. *edit - although using any kind of grease on a bolted connection throws up a whole load of questions as to what torque it should then be tightened to in relation to stated manufacturer figures.

http://www.v8forum.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=12281