Quagmire

I won't go on too much as it has all been covered already but I used to buy the magazines and now don't bother. Reasons for me are: 1- Too many ads 2- Too many chequebook builds and bling 3- Writers with little technical know-how 4- Price. 5- The killer. I can see much more interesting stuff here on the internet, done to a better standard by someone who actually knows what they are doing (and gives a carp) all for free. I spend most of my time on here, retrorides, classicroverforum and v8forum, all of which are excellent. The standard of some of the stuff on retrorides especially is astounding (and here of course ). Having said all this I bought a copy of Classic land Rover at the airport recently and that was ok...

Ok, from googling results on lr4x4 it seems that the auto version is slightly larger bore, and hangs down a bit so may get clobbered a bit more easily... Not a major concern for me as I only do the odd spot of greenlaning.

Right, so I had an set of ESR225 downpipes and y-piece lying about, which last night i tried to fit up with the tubular crossmember I have modded and a td5 90 silencer and rear section. Everything bolted together on the floor ok, but on the car the passenger side of the y-piece is straight, so the end of the y-piece is too close to the chassis rail to mate with the td5 centre box (would work if i rotated the silencer 90 degrees i guess) So going back through here it says to use RRC 3.9 downpipes and y-piece. And that brings me to my question. Whats the difference between the auto (NTC7320) and manual (NTC7321) pipes? From pics online both look like the passenger side is cranked inward toward the centre of the car, which is what i need. But are there any other differences I should be aware of before I order? This is all going in my 3.5 powered 90 with cast fanimolds if that makes any difference at all. Cheers

By yo-yo do you mean it would literally bounce up and down whilst cruising along at a constant speed on the motorway? If so that's weird... Both my rv8 powered vehicles will sit in the low to mid 80's at cruise, with little fluctuation, but the temp will rise when i stop in traffic. After that (and as you might expect) the temp then does fluctuate as the electric fan does its thing and cycles on and off.

Very interesting, thanks for posting!

I think you are right to be adding what the dizzy would have done, and agree with what you are saying about where vac advance should start and end. My setup does the same but because I (now mistakenly I think) used absolute values instead of thinking about the values being gauge pressures my vac advance comes in lower down the table. Doing it your way would give me higher advance at cruise for sure, which could be good for economy. To go back to the question on adding the full 16 degrees- I initially had a full 16 degrees of vacuum adv added but at some point reduced this to 13, I was getting a pinging type noise on overrun, however no amount of fuel or spark tuning eliminated it, I think it is actually some kind of exhaust rattle. I never got round to putting the extra three degrees back in...

Ah, i think I see what your saying and we are mostly saying the same thing- except for one point- you are taking the Mercury values as gauge values, not absolute. Not sure who is right to be honest, but thinking about it, you might be! I have a low rpm/high load misfire to sort first, but after that I might re-jig my spark table and see what the effect is. Hopefully better consumption! To answer your question on why people don't go to the full 16 i think its because its natural to be a bit conservative with spark incase things go pop.

My understanding was that standard setup with SUs gives vacuum advance only at cruise, not at idle or wot. The port is on the filter side of the butterfly (I thought so anyway, it's been a while). Here's a description of what I did to get my spark map: http://www.v8forum.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?p=99262&sid=a4b1f0b2dae52c7a14181ea0bae697a9 Economy is good and been driving around for a couple of years like this, including my recent track session at Silverstone. No blow-ups/melting yet! *Touchwood*...

Just to contradict this (that's what forums are for eh? )- changing everything at once is a good way to not be able to figure out what did/didn't work, or if you have actually introduced a new problem. Do everything one step at a time and check the results as you go. Be methodical and follow the factory settings. Before you replace anything - check everything is clean (plugs, points, rotor arm, cap, leads, filters, carb dashpots clean and pistons move smoothly etc) and correctly adjusted (plug gaps, points, timing). I got my old Rover running after it had sat for 10 and a bit years after changing the SU's for a known working set, the originals had dried up and leaked like sieves. Ignition-wise all i did was clean and gap everything. It got pressed into service as my daily doing a fair few miles everyday and ran fine on the original ignition system until I got fed up of adjusting the points every couple of months and fitted Megajolt. +1 on this being fuel - my 90 would starve on fuel when I first converted it from 2.25 petrol to 3.5 power. The fuel filter was full of crud, and the poor little 2.25 had never demanded enough fuel to make it apparent.

I will be watching with interest (in a positive way)! Sequential - From what I have read over the years there physically isn't enough time to inject the quantity of fuel required during the tiny window available at higher rpms, which is why systems drop into batch fire mode. Changing injectors or upping the pressure may by you a few more rpm, but I can't see it being much. On the flip side, if you fit massive injectors or use super high pressure in the pursuit of raising the upper limit of the sequential rpm window then you are possibly going to run into problems injecting a small enough amount of fuel at idle.

I have ms2 on my p6, ms1 on my 90. I have to say I prefer ms2 even if it just means I can drive the factory idle stepper, some of the other features are handy too (incorporate afr, the clt/mat correction table etc...). As Bowie says, support going forward is something that should be considered too. If the OP wants to go sequential then they will need ms3. I'd suggest having a read of the feature comparison tables here: http://www.msextra.com/feature-xref.html And figuring out what is required, what is nice to have, what the budget is and then go from there. Have fun!

Happy days! Good when it's something easy to fix

...well the AA were totally useless. They couldnt recover me because they had nothing that would fit under the height restriction. Spent most of the evening with them phoning me and apologising, I never even saw a patrolman! In the end my amazing wife loaded up her car with tools and my spare pump and made the 35 mile drive to me. I jacked the car up in the NCP and changed the pump myself, fired up first time. Got out the Ncp sharpish and moved to an open air carpark before grabbing some dinner and a very brisk drive home.

Turns out it's not all sweetness and light this EFI malarkey, my HP pump has just died leaving me stuck in a crack den of an Ncp car park... if it was carbs I could at least whack a jerry can on the roof and gravity feed it!

I always belt my laptop in, and although it seems I dodge nutters on a daily basis, have luckily never had anyone do anything stupid while I've been out tuning! The fact that it was dialling it in quickly is a good sign, you should have it sorted in no time! One more thing that can give jerkiness is the decel fuel setting which is under the acceleration enrichment menu. This momentarily reduces the amount of fuel when you lift off. If you set that to 100 for now that will be one less thing sticking its oar in.

Yeah, I have been running like this for almost a year now no problems touchwood.... (famous last words) I have been tempted to try 16.5 but haven't quite ever been brave enough to go any further! I should point out for the main audience of this forum that this is in my P6. Cruise in this is quite different to the Land-Rover! At 70mph on the flat I have a manifold pressure of around 45kPa, so the throttle is barely being cracked open in this condition. AFR rapidly richens as the load increases, going to just below 13 at WOT.

Wahey! I cruise at 16.2:1 so getting anything around there on overrun will be fine

Was going to point you here: And then realised that was your thread anyway!

MAP hose still connected ok?

Ah ok, yes I suppose with using a generic map you will need to set a few things, you are right to be inserting the right data to get the appropriate req_fuel value.

With Tunerstudio you essentially have a blank tune file until you connect to the ECU and then it will pull all the settings down from the controller. So the fact you have connected should mean that Tunerstudio now has a copy of the tune from your ECU. For tuning timing I generally just set the bottom right corner of the spark map itself to be all "10" then see how far it out it is with the light. That's then your trim angle. I have never changed the trigger angle on mine I don't think, so can't tell you what value I have unfortunately! Edit- I meant bottom left!

Congrats! I'd recommend you give Tunerstudio a go over megatune for tuning, nicer to use. The free version is excellent, but I'd recommend the paid for version for the VEAL and automagic warmup tuning features. You can get it here: http://www.tunerstudio.com/index.php/downloads

Black smoke is probably too much fuel, does the coolant temp sensor check out ok?

Well done! Now the fun of tuning begins

+1 for auto tune and wideband. Not slating lo-fi's post at all, he has a point about learning more by doing things by hand. I have found veal to be excellent, You can go from a car that basically idles to one that drives pretty well across most of the map (the corners can be hard to reach) in less than half an hour. It's especially handy if you don't have someone to take out with you tuning. The biggest problem is that like any automatic system junk in= junk out. You need to make sure that your hardware is all working well, good sensor readings etc, and that your settings and targets on the software side are OK. If not then you'll end up going round and round and never get an acceptable tune.