steve_a

Why not just get a new key cut, unless you are concerned about security, but with defender locks I wouldn't worry about it, most things will open the car and a lot of things will start it.

Emmigration naff. It's a long and drawn out process.... we should soon be soaking up the sunshine in South Australia

Three possible leak sources in there: o Crank seal with engine oil o Dot 3 from slave cylinder o ATF from gearbox on input shaft or nose cone seals So identify which oil and this will tell you what job you have to do. You can't go by color as it all ends up looking cak, but smell is what you need. Another option is to get a bit and put a standard rubber glove in it (the thin cheap ones) and see if it goes kind of funny, which will mean it is ATF (AFAIK the other options don't do that). Judder does sound like oil on the plate, which would be engine or gearbox oil, with engine being the most likely. If it isn't slipping and you can live with it then you could just leave it until the clutch starts slipping or you need to do it because of reliability issues (long trip etc) and then they will both involve moving the gearbox way back and probably changing the plate. Crank seal is easy to do and we probably have a tech archive on it. The gearbox I have done and I don't know how successful it is in truth, if it starts leaking it could be because the bearing on the input shaft is starting to suffer and the shaft has extra play and hence leaks. It could be a badly worn or missing spigot bush causing that to leak too.... does that help?

Possible, lift pump on the 300Tdi has sprung a leak so was looking the other day and apparently the FIP has enough guts to get by while level, climbs will be too much though, especially on longer wheel bases. However I'm with Simon, I haven't bothered bleeding the system when changing the filter on the 200 (x2) or 300. I usually make sure they are warmed up first and then change over, I do pour some of the fuel from the old filter in, just because I need to do something with it. To the OP, have you opened the bleed screw while the engine is running and confirmed it that way? If the motor is running OK then it is bled though, if you are concerned the new pump is U/S then you could try opening the bleed screw on the pump and operate the primer, this should make it easier to see if it is working.

As I subscribe to Aus 4wd monthly I can back up Jofnui about the popularity of these products in Oz, one of the recent editions even had an article on fitting one. As to whether they work or not, I can see why they would in some circumstances, but for a road vehicle I am doubtful. Jofnui is just fitting a popular product in Oz ( and it appears from an informed view), I would have thought it more appropriate to ask him how he gets on with it, but that would take a few years to get some info back! Curiously, the Oz mag also carries and metions the HI-Clone as well.... another item that seems to get classed as snake oil. welcome to the forum Jofnui, it might be worth remembering that we all tend to be friendly but products like these do tend to generate the same response of disbelief and you might have to be just a tad more patient before letting go

Yip, sounds like it is earthing through the handbrake cable. Put the lights on and put the handbrake on and off, if the light change in brightness you know that is the problem. Earthing strap from gearbox pto bolts to the chassis is an easy way to sort it.

I'd say your second pic is the outward side for 3 reasons: it looks better; it gives more clearance for the injection pump nut; if you mount it the other way the lip won't let it seal will it? Where did you get it and how much btw?

Ahh, in that case I think you will have to remove the flange. The bolts have to be captive as you can't put a spanner on the back with the drum in place so you can't swap them around and you can't get the bolts in and out with the flange on. The flange is torqued quite tight, so you will need to put the engine in 1st low (or 5th high, I get confused!) locked, with the handbrake on and preferably someone to put the brakes on, then undo the nut. It is a 32mm IIRC, the tools and fab section has a sticky on the different sizes, the actual nut is the same as the radius arms and the same thread if you want to get a spare/replacment. Once you remove the nut the flange just slips out and you can pop the new bolts in, i'd put 4 new ones in at the time. The bolts are 3/8 unf IIRC, but are an awkward size (length and non-threaded area), so you might need to pre-order them. Then just slip the flange back in and redo nut to hernia tight and you are done. It will/might leak some EP90 when you take the flange out, so you might want to put some paper down or drain the transfer case first, replacing the seal is pretty easy while you are there if it needs to be done, I think we have a tech archive for it, but basically a 52mm socket is the right size to drive the new seal in. OT: 50 mins, sounds OK, we thought maybe 40mins from the map, but it depends where from I guess, we were looking at Kapunda, Tanunda, Gawler or thereabouts. Does Barossa count as regional for teaching do you know, the wife is a primary teacher and we were wondering if there was more opportunities for her out away from central Adelaide. Current plan is to spend 6 weeks out there from about Sept time, depending on visa timescales.

I have a disco sat on the drive with 219k MILES, that is about 360,000km in your units isn't it? Apart from rust (which is a UK thing) the rest is all maintainable and easy to work on, the V8 would probably be good for the same. Just watch you don't get a D2 as they have different mechanicals, and from what I hear are not as much joy to work on as a D1, someone like bogmonster will confirm or deny that, i only work on my own Defender, D1's and some classic rangies

Is this the flange on the rear diff? or is it the flange on the transfer box(inside the handbrake drum), I can't tell from your description. The nuts are captive(ish) on the handbrake end and I think you would have to remove the flange to replace them, any of the other flanges you can cut them off and just swap the position of the nut and bolt on the driveshaft/propshaft. Nice to see someone from Barossa Valley, looking to rock up there in the next 6 months hopefully, how long does it take to drive into Adelaide?

I think most discoverys are diesel with some V8 knocking about in your area. Mostly auto. There is some issue about cars over 10 years old (hence the export of a lot of cars out from Japan at that age) which may be a limiting factor in picking something, the last of the 300tdi motors are coming to 10 years old now, which means you will be looking at TD5 and discovery 2. Judging from the repatriated discovery I just bought the body work will be fine, which leaves checking for maintence, I just removed a manky looking air and feul filter from mine and have an oil change and cam belt on the list as soon as, and it appears to have a sensible service record ( I only speak a tiny amount of Japanese and read none!). So basically, you can buy what takes your fancy subject to local issues of age and milage, a 300tdi disco 1 would be my choice if you plan on modifying it, they may have EDC but I guess it will be just as good as a TD5 for reliability and could be converted back to purely mechanical for sensible money.

I didn't think there was a shuttle valve on anything after series? If it is internal to the ABS unit then it might be a sign that you have a leak or issue in the front to rear brake system? I believe the old series shuttle valve 'detected' loss of pressure in front or rear and moved forward to block fluid from going to the leaking side. If it exits and has a similar function then it might indicate a weeping line or something?

Take the brush pack off the back of the alt as a start. I had similar issues and it turned out that salisbury plain chalk is great for binding the bushes up. The pack has 2 sets of brushes, one of which is connected to warning light as the engergising current, if this is stuck and not connecting then you don't get light and depending on luck you don't get the alternator excited and hence no charge. If there is no sign of that then it will probably be the diodes, which AFAIK means taking the alt apart to fix it (the diodes will be under the rear cover). Send a pm to SimonB if this is the case, he does a home hobby of replacement alts and will do a swap for your yours at a sensible price and is over in Fareham. He will also provide much better electrikery help... S

Bluetooth is a master-slave setup. Most likely is that the GPS is the slave and the latop is acting as the master for the piconet. The traffic is encrypted so can't be listened to with any sense by another receiver, though if you pair another device into the piconet you should be getting a data net going. I don't think many consumer devices actually support that though. You would need an app to read the data from the GPS and send it to the phone. Most devices don't seem to be fully featured for bluetooth from my playing with them

I'd heard that too, the old disco has a gold engine. Though when I did a search I couldn't find any positive links to confirm the gold block theory.

Of more concern would be low water level! Check the rad and expansion to ensure there is water up there, note the temp gauge can read normal/low when it is just measuring the steam.

Forum windscreen topic Basically it's not too difficult, but a pain. The seal can be reused, but it depends on the condition, as you probably know a new seal is quite expensive! Sorry there are no pictures, I need to sort out a reupload and post a link to where they can be found. If you want to do it based on those instructions I will upload them in the next day or so. To be honest, if you can get it done on the insurance, do so, it's not worth the aggro, if, like me, you have no windscreen cover then go for it, I think we took about 2 hours, maybe 3 as we were trying to take it easy and were cautious. The screens are V tough though, i had to dispose of the old one as the tip wouldn't take it and it took a bit of sweat to get rid of it.

Perhaps you should have a look Forum topic on wetraods oh moderator Maybe it should go to the tech archive?

Why is it full now? I originally come from Huyton/Prescott L35.... But back on topic for a moment: The idea of actually taking something somewhere might also be helped by perhaps being willing to drop off at a courier depot perhaps? Ebay sellers can be a bit tricky to sort that kind fo thing out, but if it is a case of collect then drop at DHL or whatever to get there that might also be an option. S

I suppose I should add that I don't mind being part, I don't mind doing a favour within reason (especially since I have needed a few!)

Well, I can't add much to this topic. I had a look on Rave last night and Japan had specific wiring......... So the speakers are set up in a common ground. There are 2 ways for me to deal with this, either rewire all the speakers (not a chance) or get hold of one of these PAC OEM-2, about £40 or slightly cheaper from Ebay US sellers. Maybe this doofer will help someone else too, I'll put another post when I get it and fit it about how well it did(n't) work. Damien, if you were referring to my photos, I can confirm that all the wiring is as I said, I even checked the dash remote buttons and got what I expected, the extra wire in the power (A? iso) is the illumination. The only thing I am unsure about is the two black wires, on the pink block, sound is working without them, but don't know if sub is working.

Out in WA the search results haven't arrived yet I'm surprised to see you have the internet

Hmmm. the blue, yellow, green, red are 'speakers' blue - rear left yellow - rear right green - front left red - front right (I think that is right) - confirmed by moving fader on stereo. However the 2 blacks are not rear/front earths, they are are connected to each other with about <10ohm resistance, so probably an actual speaker. They are NOT connected to speaker wires. The stereo works, but has a background hiss, indicating I need an earth for the speakers. Looks like the speaker wires are inputs to an amp somewhere. I may just have to live with hiss as I can't be jacked taking everything apart to run speaker wires and I can't see a way to make the earth for the speakers correct. But I am (literally) working in the dark, so maybe something will come to me. Back to the HBOL to see if the wiring diagram sheds any light now

Don't know if this helps, I am taking the LR radio out (Japanese model, so wrong freq range) and on the back are these connectors What I've figured out: Pink plug - speakers, looks like 2 grounds (front and rear), and 4 +ves for FL,FR,RR,RL, though no idea which is which yet. The colors for those are blue, yellow, green, red. I haven't got a choccy block at the moment, so I am going to buzz them out and try it tomorrow. Confirmed as speakers by removing the connector while running and sound disappeared. Brown plug - Instrument cluster remote controls. 5 wires, so probably live switched to earth by console. (NOTE: this is an iso speaker plug!) Gray plug - Powers. Confirmed via use with new stereo, fits correct ISO connector on new unit On wide pic, big thick black wire centre is multi core CD head unit connector, the other end is visilbe in the cavity, and the CD unit end appears under a seat (drivers on mine). Another purple and white (IIRC) connector is also under the seat, probably a switched live. Lower screen plug - back of radio says "sub", however I'm an pretty sure it is the aerial lead, as disconnecting it affects reception, but nothing else (other lead above also tested with no effect) helpfully labelled with a part number which on microcat shows as going to aerial. This needs altering to fit standard aerial connector. Upper screened plug - back marked "main", but believe this is sub woofer to rear door due to part number on lead matching microcat entry for sub woofer connector. HBOL also agrees and it looks like a live should be coming from somewhere for sub. If anyone happens to know which speaker wires are which on the pink plug then let me know, it'll just save me some time. Model is a 1997 300Tdi Auto county spec, but a Japanese import. It doesn't look fiddled with, but there was a sat nav fitted (apparently I was in Tokyo on the way home) which may have resulted in modifications.

Ali, I do stand corrected, I forgot Hayling only had 1 road in and out The ramblers might hatch a plan to sever the link and keep all the landys in one spot though, dangerous option, though at least it would be the right place to retire them into. Would Isle of Wight be worse than Hayling or Gosport? Certainly more expensive to get the motor to....