steve_a

try lifting form a corner rather than the middle - seemed to make the difference when mine seized after trips on the Plain

Purely practical note: Allow probably an hour to give the vehicle a good inspection. Make a list of things to look and try and stick to it (easier said than done). Quick list would be Chassis - start from the back and give it a good whack and scrape. Chances are that by starting at the back you can be done with the vehicle quicker Bulkhead - give the corners a good old prod, can be paint holding it together. Footwells. Gearbox & engine - check oil and then run it up in low gear through all 5 gears - means you don;'t have to break speed limit to make sure it engages ok in all gears. If you plan on driving away, check the wheel bearings as it could make for a bum clenching trip on the way home, although knackered bushes can make for a white knuckle experience too. As FF said - a lot of the rest is spanners and money

during blue screen, you can hit f6 to install a third party host driver. Make a floppy up with the driver on.

seek and destroy all the copies of mg16.dll, it will be being cached somewhere.

Somebody with more knowledge will be along I am sure, but in the meantime... Land Rover went on a crusade about 2 years ago to reclaim their brand and threatened loads of clubs about using the logo. I belive it was all sorted out fairly amicably, in the end. It may be that this is something similar, so don't immediately back down and contact LR direct about it and make it clear that it is in their own interest to be sensible. Best of luck with it, as I said, I am sure some club member will be along who had to deal with all this when it occured.

Cool. Hoping we can get out and do some... and trying to resist the urge to take a month or 6 off and do the tours.....

Yes, but not exactly straight forward. you would want the device to be non-discoverable with a good pin to be of use. You would also want it to control a voltage o/p. The device to activate it would need some custom code written, probably java so it worked on more than one phone. all good so far but what happens if your phone loses connection or the battery runs out? Your LR will turn off, sounds dangerous to be honest, which is why I wouldn't produce the device as described. (added) I suppose you could use some kind of latching process so that once the engine is on, even if the phone loses connection the engine would stay alive. you could use the bluetooth as a blipper, so you connect and tell it to turn on the pump, this locks in until you send an off message. But there are simpler solutions than that using bog standard RF links I reckon. If you wanted it to automatically work as you approach the program on the phone would need to run all the time, it would be doing the discovery process every few mins and wear your battery down a lot (I've worked on software that had that issue). Kind of a nice idea, but safety and other issues make it a bit wobbly for me.

Works for me when I just tried it. Go to my profile and click the link

Some educated guesses 1) not a big surprise. There are some drivers and registry stuff in there, there are loads of gotchas when developing for 64 bit windows which means it's easy for it to fail. 2) Sounds like a possible bad install, an activex control is not registered at a guess. Though may be failing due to auto install of sp3 to XP recently. 3) Ahhh, looks like they have messed about to stop the auto date setting working. I'll have a look when I get a decent net connection again and see if I can find another auto setting file. I'll also get a second version that will jump to a user specified date.

I thought the TD5 was a BMW engine, and so would have been really well designed. So who did actually design it then?

1) this can easily be caused by poor earth being used, so you are comparing against say 0.01v earth potential rather than 0v. It can also be caused and is quite likely, to be the capacitance of the probes, as the swing comes back you end up with overshoot/ringing, quite common to see. 4) Couldn't tell from the trace, but it looks somewhat suffering from low sample rate, are you sure that the max rise you see isn't being limited by your sample rate? I couldn't tell what timescale I was looking at, it looked like seconds along the bottom? Don't know much more than that of help..

Ok, no idea if this is actually OT, I am looking for a cheap car in Adelaide, Australia and have been looking on Gumtree There are some fantastic examples (me and the wife are laughing at a lot of them) of awful attempts to sell cars, have a browse through. Couple of nice LRs on there though... not sure I should really be looking at buying a LR as soon as we arrive, but finding it hard to resist.... Mmmmmm V8 discovery oh, as a good example check out this Beast!

Another successful arrival - even a bit of a surprise, forgot I had ordered a rugby shirt and t shirt. sweet

If you are thinking you are going to muller it, give the local dealer a phone call, since they may not have the bolts on the shelf, you may want to lay in some spares just in case if you need the motor on the road. S

Pugwash - no sign of mine yet, I move in about 4 weeks time, so I may need to give you a new address if it hasn't already headed off.

Out of curiosity, is there any hassle or extra costs associated with donating from a different currency. Just pretty soon you will be getting AUS$ from me and paypal will be the only way I'd guess.

Main thing I found is that the casing can be different, the threaded input port is usually in the same spot but the hose push on port is in different places. Probably not worth you doing, but you can split the case off and put the correct case from the broken one on. But if you just bought it you don't want to be doing that I guess.

Simple on how to recover it, just drive it back up - form an orderly queue to do the driving Freelander decides to off road on own

Most likely causes (in order of what I'd do): - TRE play - steering damper - steering box adjustment - swivel pre-load to be honest, it sounds like the steering damper, check the TREs first then pop the damper off and make sure it still feels ok. if you have the time you should really check the pre-load and reset all that before putting a new damper on as the new damper will mask loads of other issues.

Brake pads since you will be right in there. Swivel oil since you will have decent access. about the only extras that are directly related I can think of

rubbish on a truck cab though...........

First step is to swap out all the old fuses for new ones and clean the holders at the same time, these seem to corrode nicely and provide a rubbish connection, this alone cured 90% of the electrical gremlins on the 90 after a period of lay up. Worth checking that the spindle mechanism is not seized on the wipers, the drivers side went solid on mine (again after lay up), and so needed to be replaced. Have to check by removing motor, and don't be fooled by the wiper arm moving, the ally arms will strip their splines easily when given some abuse.

I think ALL are supposed to move, however my series and 90's runners were crudded up, probably because they are truck cabs and so never got adjusted. As said, you can get some add ons to lift the seats and so move them back a few extra inches in anything but a truck cab, and station wagon doesn't have a rear bulkhead, you can also get a bulkhead replacement which is just a bar which probably gives some extra space.

Some of the stands go to all that lengths and STILL don't put price tags on...... I can't fathom it, I'm not rich, I need to know how much it is, by not putting a sticker on I presume I won't be pleasantly surprised

Wow, did you get Roothy to sign your chest ? cool, have to watch out for it, but it should just be a case of popping down the store by that point I hope.