steve_a

You would normally have an idea of the condition of the bearing while it was on the vehicle. Excess play (motion) in the wheel is the sign, along with rough, rumbling, sound when spinning. When off, it is a case of looking at the grease the bearing is in, if this appears contaminated to a great extent then it may be worth changing since it is all disassembled. If you are looking to save money, clean and regrease the bearing if it looks OK, and reuse. Most of my bearings have shown increasing play when worn out and have given quite a lot of notice to allow their replacement. If safety is your main concern, replace with new, if money then clean and reuse, providing they are not showing damage. You should only really need to change the inner and outer bearings on the hub (4 bearings in total). Though there are the swivel pin ones, which are probably worth doing if showing any play (x4).

wander along to the sysinternals website here. There are a load of very useful apps here, but what you probably want is the process explorer, this is a bit better featured that task manager. When run you can select to see the filename of the starting program and command line. This is good to identify processes running from suspect locations or with suspect names. If you are not sure about a file, right click it and choose search, it will bring up google or live search (yuck!) which will tell you about the file, often meaning you can stop worrying about it. The other one is autoruns, this shows you every program that is set to run automatically, this can be a good way to trim items off to get some performance back. However, I think the option from Kim is a good suggestion, it allows you to check for a hardware fault, you can also try knoppix and SLAX for a live, cd booting system. It may be worth trying more than one if you do have the same fault to rule out sods law that the linux distro doesn't like your hardware. Then as said, consider using system restore (it's actually quite good) to see if it is a driver issue that can be simply resolved, after that it gets harder.

Got all the bolts/nuts off the bell housing? there are a couple of sneaky buggers at the top, but on a 110 I'd expect you to have seen them. We just couldn't get my 90's box down, the transfer lever was fouling the seat box, Les in his post removed the lever housing, it was a bit late for us, but a small notch in the box allowed it to clear.

From the looks of it, a few beer tokens to FF would see you right Love the comments, You went digital while I still tend to think about analogue, but if you get such fine resolution with FF circuit then that is definitely the way to go, less susceptible to voltage loss issue probably. If you throw a PIC at it you could make it auto calibratiing too

Thanks for that cipx2, I did the job this AM, I made up a a piece of plastic about 2" long and rectangular, and ground the lip off the 'axle' that the old wheel used to run on. After a bit of a drill it was an interference fit and seems OK. I didn't bother make a bolt/nut combo like the related posts, an interference fit seems OK as it is V difficult to move the arm out anyway, so I don't imagine it will come out anytime soon. I can now get into work without having to get out and swipe my card at the gate, I can lean through the window again.

A bit of a suggestion, if you take a windscreen wiper cable and attach it then set that to twiddle a simple pot you have a varying voltage dependant on rear steer position. You could then run a series of LEDs off it which would give you an indication of not just when in the centre, but also how far you have it turned. I haven't been fiddling with electronics lately but I don't think it would be a very complex circuit to light bars up, your full scale could easily have 20 LEDs (assuming 0.6v drop per LED) and would provide a vaguely nice analogue display. Might have to fiddle for the right gear size to make the pot go full swing with the steer of the axle. Good side is all the parts are pretty cheap and easy to make and replace. You can go to electric pretty quickly and the cable should be pretty resilient to allowing any muck back into a box with the pot in.

You can't connect the GPS to two programs without another bit of software, there is a link in the tech archive for some of the solutions people are using. If you mention what operating system you are running under then someone else might be able to check the minimise issue for you. TractorBoy - trying having the gps plugged in then start the app, then confirm the serial port settings, almost certainly 4800, 8n1, but you might need or get away with 9600. EDIT: quick test looks like it is Vista issue (os is Vista ultimate sp1). Minimise comes straight back up and also won't resize, i.e. will only sit at full screen.

This topic may help, has some piccies and wiring diagrams. Disco Stereo

Hmmm, revisiting an old topic. Turns out that the outputs where signal level, I still needed the converter, and the grounds all run together. Sounds qualities good, and radio reception is great.

Did anyone have good replies for this? Sadly, my drivers window has just done the same thing, all I can think to do is make one up in wood or something

Thanks for all the hosting suggestions, I'll maybe chase a few up and register with some redundant hosting. Feel free to host the file, I have no issues. I'll always post the new version links on here should I update it in anyway. If anyone is using this on Vista I have an option to enable the escalation prompt if wanted, otherwise modifying the launching shortcut is slightly less annoying, but at least it gives you the option and should always enable the application to change the system time. The MG16.dll should have come with the Microcat download, you need to be rigorous about replacing it in the application folder and any other instances on the system. I think the MG16.dll is a generic fix, it is checking for a hardware dongle (well would be checking) and is the same file that has been knocking around for quite old versions of microcat. So it may well work for other brands of microcat, I think I've seen at least one. The microlauncher only works for Land rover data (the way it finds what date to use), however I can probably fix that if really wanted (no one has ever mentioned trying to use it for any other versions).

If you are willing to spend some money I think it is longranger that offer tanks, australian company, but I am sure I have seen them mentioned in the UK. I can get an aussie contact info for you and possibly and idea of prices pretty easy.

If it is the pump and is suffering issues on delivery of fuel under load then it will be difficult to test I guess. If it ran rubbish at tickover you could do a run off test to see how much diesel was being pushed through. I'd offer to let you borrow the pump off the disco, but I hate the idea of disturbing the lines on it to that extent. Sounds like it might be time to put it into a diesel specialist and let them have a look, if you have enough fuel to run up then it does start to point towards timing, compression or pump as the issue. I'm certainly not an expert, but since it starts it doesn't sound like compression, timing could be an issue? Do you think it might have skipped a tooth on the belt?

One of each ordered - best of luck to the team! Just hope I ordered a big enough size

I can't really complain - the wife HATES the mess but is tolerant of time I spend working on the landies. She even quite likes driving the discos, but won't hardly even travel in the 90. I get her to spanner monkey for me occasionally, usually when there is a bit of time pressure, and I swear she pretends to be useless to wind me up so that I don't ask, either that, and I'm ashamed to admit this, but I think as I start to lose my rag on the job more and more she gets a bit less of a fair deal. How does the whole car mechanic rage thing work with you lot, coz as partners you can really lay into each other with no mercy, whereas I would bite my lip with a mate a lot more. I can't remember when working with mates that I was called a w***ker and asked any of them why they were being such a***les

I *think* the 2.5 will fit, someone will probably have an old TD or NA knocking around. If you are feeling really masochistic you can probably make a 2.25 fit I didn't realise sitting on your landy with your dog in a field was necessarily cause for a full on police alert, you weren't wearing a balaclava to keep warm were you

I could easily be wrong, but I think it is left hand thread because most tow ropes turn anti-clockwise under tension and if a normal thread then it could unscrew. In fact I am sure I heard that they used to be normal thread until this happened a few times... Sounds believable to me anyway!

FF - might need to account for crocs in that crossing

I'll try and have a look for you, I have a 300tdi 1997 and 200tdi 1991 sat right next to each other, so I can see if there are any major differences. Off the top of my head I don't think there is, possibles/probables are: * gearbox cross member different, but that's just a bolt in * engine mounts, though they look pretty similar from memory, might be in a different position * anti-roll bar mounts on 300tdi models * fuel tank mountings * boge mountings If there are any areas you want to specifically compare then let me know and I will try and put a tape measure to them or something

If you don't have any luck my 200tdi disco is sat on the drive and I won't miss the filter assembly for a test (I'd need one back at some point). It is in Kettering. But it sounds like you have probably got it sorted.

Bish, a real bummer mate. I've pointed a mate at this thread since he is starting the uphill part of bobtailed (both ends) range rover with cage he is building, he is fingers crossed about it, but I'm hoping that if he takes some action now he might scrape it through by maybe doing a bit of a strip down. He is/was getting the issue that until the motor is finished noone wants to make a statement, and after it is complete it's all too late. I can appreciate that they are trying to avoid wrecks on the road, but like a lot of these things it will probably only be the legit people who care anyway.. More trailer queens from now on?

Yet another quick link so it can be downloaded. Not sure about this hoster - was recommended to me, but I will wait and see! microlaunch Executable And for those that want it, the source code Source code I can't promise that this will be the final host, I have a horrible feeling I might have to start paying for hosting, but I guess that is what I have to do to ensure that software is available exactly when somone should want it

well, looks like the hoster is down, not sure when that happened, but a quick check looks like they are gone. Time to find yet another new hoster. In the meantime I am happy to send out copies if PMd David, where does this file come from? I have just disassembled it and from quick peek it appears to be manually loading kernel32 and there are some what look like dll function call routines typical where you load a DLL to get access to dodgy functions but don't want the imports to be seen. The hosting site doesn't look ace either. I'd be careful about running an executable that you are unsure of the origin of, changing the system date is an administrative action, so if this works it has a high level of access. I could just be being paranoid, but I like to check. I note it is written in VB6 which indicates it is either a bit old or they chose it for the amount of noise it generates when decompiling, you don't see many new VB6 programs now. There may be nothing wrong with it, but it's best to be cautious, the source for my apps I release like this are always available if asked for, for just this reason. S

With the way the SVA/DVLA rules seem to be going here I can see events just accepting any motor subject to some kind of scrutineering, it is going to be really difficult to make a competitive vehicle that is good for the road, at least not without doing a complete ground up build. Good point about different state rules though, does make it easier for some competitors I'd guess, but from what I have experienced in the last six months you ozzies took our bureaucracy and removed what little sense there is to it and made it your own I think the multi day format, better weather, more space and set format of these events is what makes it easier/better to spectate at, UK events are cold, I never seem to be where the interesting action is and spread out with everything going on at once....

Does sound like the box is maybe the bad side of the wear curve have you tried changing the oil and filter on the gearbox, my old disco was horrible on getting into second on the downshift but new oil and filter and it made a world of difference. I think the brake cleaner will get you some life back, the oil contaminated plate I threw away still had loads of meat and it was mainly when it got hotter that it started slipping. It started slipping in 4th at full throttle, and took about 3 months to move to slipping in 3rd at full throttle, but it did seem to start getting worse quicker.