steve_a

Some types of lube may be better than others - a grease will trap any dirt particles, and since you have bits of clutch plate (if manual) it would gum it up again, maybe fairly quickly. Not sure what I'd recommend, a graphite or lithium type dry lubricant rather than penetrating, Vaseline or similar. Lubricate the solenoid and bendix, since it could be either sticking

To get the correct alignment of everything from scratch you would: disconnect the steering box to front pitman arm take the rear tie rod off, screw both TRE in to max, then undo them both enough to align and drop in holes. adjust tracking via tie rod, as you rotate the rod the tre's extend out equally on both sides due to left and right threads. lock off tie rod. put steering wheel in straight ahead adjust front tie rod to correct length, to get to pitman arm with wheels straight ahead. As has already been said, the front rod and steering box usually won't need fiddling, it's the rear rod, and the adjustment that has can create loads of wheel angle. To be running out of adjustment either a tre has been adjusted singly or the rod is bent as bent thing.

Well, I'd better fess up, and perhaps it can go in the tech archive for fault finding.... Got the car home and took the master cylinder off - no sign of leak into servo, so if anything probably a leak past the seals in the M/C However, started searching around the garage for some brake fluid to put the M/C back on and start flushing/bleeding. I couldn't find any. What I could find was a bottle of power steering fluid, clear/yellowish in color, bottle identical to brake fluid. I also found a bottle of ATF power steering fluid, color red, bad news for rubber products. I topped the cylinder off about 2 weeks ago after seeing a brake warning light going around a corner. I also parked the car on the car port (which has a good slope to it) with the nose up. I can only assume I picked up a mislaid bottle in the auto part shop and got power steering fluid. I never noticed because of the color and during the last two weeks it has presumably been causing issues for the M/C rubber seals, and the up hill parking would suspiciously be towards the secondary circuit, with the front RH caliper on. Costly accident, as it appears that I can take a chance and flush the hell out of the system and have a cost of M/C, brake hose and piston seals, though it may have affected more on the way through. Or do the right thing and replace all the rubber items: M/C (£170 at least D2 one doesn't seem rebuildable) Seals for calipers x 6 (£40ish) flexible hoses x 6 (£35 ea ish so £200 ish) plus one servo one way valve (if I can get one) since the bugger broke as I was taking M/C off. If I'm lucky the ABS block is OK, if not that will add a good amount the bill. I'm planning on doing it decently, and see what the ABS block is like afterwards. The garage didn't pick up on the issue, even though I had a note in with the car explaining I'd topped it up, and searching on the net showed that the calipers locking on like this was a common indicator. I could also see some swirling mixing in the resevoir, which was probably the two fluids mixing together. doh!

The front calipers are dual piston. I couldn't push both in at the same time, but I could see-saw them, showing that they are free to move. There is the ABS block up from the caliper, it has solenoids which control both inflow and outflow of fluid from the caliper, as well as having to push fluid back through the convoluted path in the block if nothing else. Have a look at a dis-assemble of the block here Hummer Forum ABS modulator pdf to see what I mean. I have checked Rave, because I wondered if there was instructions to open the bleed nipple when pushing the pistons back when fitting new pads. However... the front pads have a decent amount left, so it maybe that the pistons are already all or most of the way in. Good point, I'll have to check the run out of the front disc and make sure it's OK. As I said, I noticed some pedal creep when I was firm on the brake stopped in traffic and had noticed a little fluid loss, I wouldn't be surprised if the MC and servo needed doing, there was no sign of any fluid loss anywhere else and I had been over everything, just forgot about trying to check the MC/servo.

Got a call from the garage. They want to: replace the complete caliper on each side, on each axle, i.e. 2x front and 2xrear new discs on back new pads on back new master cylinder new servo A$6500 WHAT! The master cylinder, servo, discs and pads are legit (I reckon) the pedal has had some creep and they reckon it has leaked into the servo. Not impossible. The discs are now needing doing. But replacing the WHOLE caliper on each wheel???!? Bear in mind this thing doesn't know what rust is, I think there is still a factory sticker on one of the calipers..... On top of that there was labour for replacing the master cylinder, and labour for replacing the servo. Erm. That's charging twice for the same bit of work. Glad I went the main Adelaide dealer, a fly by night place would have been terrible.... Needless to say I explained the the parts bill was about 2-3 times the size it needed to be and that I would just do any work myself. I've instructed them to flush the brake system to see if that gets rid of the current problem and I'll go from there. Bear in mind I told them I had had the caliper off and had seen the pistons moving freely (when operated separately) and that the problem was very much 'instantaneous' it didn't kind of build up. If they did the work they might have fixed it just as a by product of flushing. That's restored my faith in asking garages to do work on my cars. Oh well, of out at the weekend to buy a Suzuki jimny

Not a noise - usually get a bit of an ABS like noise on start up, according to Rave it's supposed to that as an ABS test. Though with the three Amigos showing, I thought ABS was off. About the only thing I can think of is that the outlet solenoid has decided to die, stopping the caliper from releasing. I pulled the cable block off the abs and ran the engine up without it, as expected extra lights on dash, then reconnected and restarted. It would fit with no symptoms followed by buggered, followed by OK. It's a killer, if the flatbed had been a bit quicker i might have got it in the garage while still seized and had the chance to burn myself / look at the issue, especially if the diagonal wheel was locked, that might suggest master cylinder issues, but again, upstream of ABS mod and you have to garage it I think I preferred my simple 90 and series 1 disco... anyway, good to know I'm not giving up prematurely

Had a carp end to the afternoon. Had been driving about through the day, starting and stopping and then final house viewing (well it turned out to be the final house viewing) started to move off and noticed the D2 was not as perky to go as it normally was. Felt like the brakes were binding. Went around the corner and was certain there was an issue, so stopped the car, pumped the pedal a few times, started it, reversed in case something was stuck in the calipers. Still nothing. It was just getting worse. Made a decision to scrap the rest of days viewings and limp home (about 10 mins away) but the binding got very, very bad. Basically I limped it to the main road and stopped as the pads were smoking at that point. Checking around it looked like only the front right was hard on, the rear left also seemed warm, the other two brakes were normal. Called the RAA to get recovered and by the time the flat bed came, the brakes had released. I've been in the garage and taken the two wheels off and the only things I can find: 1) Front Right did get v hot, but plenty of meat left on pad, no sign of anything caught. 2) tried to compress the pistons to check for a seized one and they wouldn't move. 3) tried them one at a time and they both move without fuss put the front back together and popped the back wheel off. Seemed maybe a little heated, but not so sure, the same burn smell as the front was very faint, but the same on the other side Again, couldn't press the piston in. I'm edging towards the ABS unit playing up. I have the ABS/ETC/HDC lights on (and have for ages) so I got no hint about that. I saw the handbrake/general brake error light come on a couple of very brief times in the last few weeks. But I thought the first one was low fluid so topped it up. I also saw it briefly after startup today. Any hints - I'm thinking i have done all I can and need to take it to a garage to be testbooked, which is needed for the ABS modulator.

I think you're stuffed, you're running 64bit windows, microcat is 32bit (in fact bits are 16bit from Win 3.11!!!). I don't think you can even do any compatibility stuff.

My first series 3 had a terrible blower when I got it. The air flow was the issue and also heat. The heat was a massively gunged up heater control, and when sorted it had warm but still bad air flow. The fan is kind of washer drum arrangement on those and I think it had about 3 blades left or something. The mini metro was a compatible swap, do we have any rovers over here? I haven't seen any. Anyway, slight ramble over, is it the air flow or heat that is the issue, I expect it's flow, since even cold air will clear the screen pretty quickly. There are some hoses, but aren't they visible on the 2a? I found the one behind the instruments was holed when I pulled it out. See if you still have any blades, if not then it might be time to find a replacement motor from another vehicle or look at some modern blowers from PCs as suggested.

I think the 2.5NA only gets around 70BHP. On long hills even my 200TDi (120bhp?) would gradually slow up, topping out at 60mph on a long uphill run was not unusual, while on the flat it would be 70+/- 20mph. I think sand driving saps the power too. So... I guess either live with it or consider putting something with a bit more grunt up front. Over here they sell lots of after market turbo (and intercooler) kits, but the 2.5turbo has a bad reputation of failing, but was without intercooler. I think Les has a 2.5 turbo with an intercooler fitted, I would expect this to get you a good bit of extra power 10-20bhp? and I think Les reckoned the engine was good to run with the intercooler.

I've seen comments that a nanocom will tell you the SLAB codes, even though it won't talk to the ECU on the V8. I'd be interested to know if it does since I expect I could find one of those locally to see what mine is whinging about.

Cool, out of interest what kind of range do you get on the video? Looking to buy one of these to monitor the car when I park at work, grand plan is to auto-process the images and look for the traffic warden coming around.

Just got a text message and turns out it was the turbo gone. A quick AUD$4000 spent on parts and labour and he has it back on Wed. eek.

Ok, not a LR, but was called out to a mate last night to look at the car and give them a lift home. It is a 3.5L Turbo diesel Holden Jackaroo which is an Isuzu Trooper. Definite symptoms are: white smoke from exhaust, heavy after a little reving. I think it smelt oily and not steamy. The radiator water seemed to smell diesely. There is an oil operated high pressure fuel pump (I am pretty sure it is common rail) where oil and diesel can mix if gaskets fail, which if the head gasket is failed could also cause oil and water to mix I guess. I wasn't dressed for getting oily and looking much more, so I had them leave it by the side of the road for us to collect today or get thier mechanic to look at it. I've asked if they put petrol in (they had just been shopping) and they reckon not. On one hand it just looks like head gasket failure (it was also spontanious, not a gradual build up of smoke) and I wonder if I'm smelling diesel fumes in the rad, but the oily smelling smoke should be steamy smoke shouldn't it? Could it be turbo bearing? I didn't have them rev it, as being auto I was concerned if it was turbo that the engine could run on with the oil??

I'd have said it was authentic, certainly from front and bulkhead. But looking a bit closer, they look like wolf axles, a different gearbox(?). Which may make it difficult to keep the age plate. Shame really

In your region shires is a good club, they have much more regular events than HBRO (in terms of play days rather than trials). I haven't been to a shires event for some time (and it will be ages before I do again ) but while relaxed they have needed a bit more 'control' in some cases, but I understand that shires has been addressing that. HBRO tend to run very 'proper' events, with high control and guidance. It's good, but can get a trifle boring (though there are some club members who know how to let their hair down and act the arse ). One of the really good things HBRO has though is BAFMA events, these provide access to great areas and I enjoyed *every one* I went on, the driving was great, the interaction with armed forces was good. You quite often broke new tracks on training areas too... The public driving days that HBRO used to organise were good as well, watching other 4x4 go around tracks was always entertaining, though some of the prime jobs used to go to the same faces a bit too much and you could end up getting a bit peed off with how hard you were working in comparison to people swanning around. I think I'd join both clubs if I was back there.. They both offer a different kind of experience. I await the flames

FF - Burnt house lane heading back to peel common, 9pm. Series 2. Bouncing along. plonk. right hand light goes out from water sploshing around in headlight from wading a few days before. 10m further on, plonk, left hand bulb goes out as water sploshes around. was an interesting drive back on side lights only... Turning them off while wading will stop them going straight away, but they still need emptying later otherwise, as I found out, it can make a slow drive some nights later

Pigeon House lane. You could never guess when it was going to be deep. That looks about 6" deeper/higher than I've seen it, did you drive around the back lanes, they were usually quite wet as well.

Holcot was what I was thinking. They had only just started running an every month event as we left the area, so never found out what it was like

Bit too much detail mate . Also I think you may have exaggerated No snow here... only just dropping past 40c, at least when it is cold you can put more clothes on, at 45c all you can do is sit and sweat....

Traction control stuff is worth checking, especially if no centre diff lock. I believe you can have the 3 warning lights reset by leaving the battery off overnight (I tried about an hour and it didn't work, or it may have been faulted again straight away). So check the clock is reading the right time and that the radio doesn't need the code putting in. If it needs both/either then there is a good chance the ETC/ABS is playing up and they are trying to hide it. Next check would be to find some gravel ground and try to wheel spin a wheel to see the ETC/ABS lights come on indicating they haven't covered over the bulbs or pulled them out of the dash Make sure the Emergency Key Access code (EKA) is available as you may need that in the future, but you can get it from a dealer. Check the number of full key fobs with it, i.e. key plus plipper, as these will set you back £150 or so . They are about the only D2 specifics I can think of, off hand. All the rest of the normal checks apply.

VMT! Glad to see it has gone through. Just wish oz was as sensible, and/or LR Oz were more helpful. Didn't know about the rad leak, chances are the butcher boys at the garage did it when doing the timing belt, it's a tight area to work in with lots of spannering going on. The EGR thread, I noted the performance and smoke etc when I got it and then after I disconnected the electrics. I buzzed out the electrics to determine the solenoid control volts etc. and basically as far as I could tell the EGR valve is closed at the moment. I didn't fit the blanker kit just in case I needed to put it back in for the MOT. I know the assumption is that the EGR would have stuck open at that age of car, but the low mileage and usage pattern means it was a good bet that it was till operational.

Hi Nick, good to see you got it done without too much fuss. Was everything else looking good in that region after the garage doing the job? Was it an old gasket that hadn't been replaced or a new one badly fitted? Also have you sent the V5 stuff off yet? I was surprised when Paul told me you had taken the whole thing, I haven't received anything from DVLA about transfer of ownership or de-registration. Steve

Is that different over your way? Here in SA the rego only provides third party personal injury. So run someone over or injure them in a crash and they get paid, but car damage isn't. I know, I had a car park bump (my first accident in nearly 18 years )

Not sure I follow you. Until about a year or so ago there used to be a rest of the world area with UAE, Oz etc represented. As I recall the idea was that since they didn't have a lot of traffic they were merged into the international section. I don't think splitting the forum up is needed or worthwhile, you can easily end up with the PITA of figuring out if you have posted in the wrong forum. What I was referring to is that the international forum has a heavy UK slant to it, because of the mix of members presumably, and that trying to post anything about other countries could easily be swamped by the latest "does my car need an SVA thread". Perhaps there is some benefit to creating a UK portion with very UK specific discussions on it. It may be about a LR SVA, but it has bugger all to do with the guys in France or elsewhere does it? Personally I'm still interested, I have mates going through the process and I like to know what is happening, but I know that won't be true of others. I mention it only in reference to the discussion about do we need a legal sub-forum, and how useful that would be when we all come from different areas in the international section.