Bowie69

Yep, ditto, made me do a double post, and I *never* do a double post But thanks for the info, nice to be back

Ah good news Have to say though, the IMPCO stuff seems WAAAAY more complex than most other systems!

Could be interesting when Windows does a forced reboot after an update, and the whole truck shuts down!

TBH, get a genuine one, a lot of the aftermarket ones fail very quickly.

Look simple enough TBH, an idle mixture screw, a fast running screw, and a power valve...... Only 3 settings and they all depend on eachother! What I would do, is getting it running as well as you can, then to get it *right* take it to an LPG specialist, they will have it set up in 10 minutes, and probably just charge you a box of jaffa cakes to boot, mush less hassle than trying to work out how to set it all up without a CO meter handy

To be honest, if those figures were done cold, I don't think there is an issue at all..... Hot, they would indicate a worn engine, but not a headgasket leak.

Woops, double post, forum timed out :s

Hey Charles, not your fault at all! and it wasn't a dig I kind of assumed I would need to move things about, just by looking at the holes in the bumper.... and yes I think i can remedy the situation without too much difficulty .... the TDS is more central than the XD9000, but seems to still be off centre by 4mm, but I suppose a central fairlead will be close enough.... bottom line is they need moving across by 42 mm, a project for when my mig-trigger finger has healed... and when I have sorted out my other car... Another thing for people considering a Goodwinch, I downloaded the spec sheet for the TDS 9.5/12.0, the winch is 612mm wide, my winch tray is 615mm opening that's with the winch tray made up of 4mm plates inside the chassis rail, anything thicker and you will struggle to get it in! In comparison the Britpart DB8000 seems to be 564mm overall, much much more clearance! Hope that helps a bit! P.s. Bish - You got that 200TDi auto in the 90 yet?

I measured up for a Goodwinch TDS 9.5 against the original holes that are in my southdown front bumper (from Bishbosh!), they do not match at all, the whole winch needs moving left as you look at the vehicle, and are wider apart as well. Pretty sure Bish had an X9 in there, although I migth be wrong..... But then it is only a couple of holes to re-drill and weld up the old ones if you are worried about weakening it.

Go to a scrappy, a friend of mine picked up two Range Rover bottle jack setups (jack, two handles, 2 wheel chocks) for £15 the pair. I have 2 myself, (from my Rangies ) and find them invaluble, nothing like having a pair of jacks with exactly the same characteristics when getting a vehicle up on stands/blocks.... so much easier.

Check around your vapouriser for leaks, very easy to miss these.... Also check for soggy carpets, heater matrix might be leaking...

Also happened here! Makes the truck drive at a funny angle as well, steering wheel aint straight with it like that. Take em off, I will be, once my finger has healed from being crushed by a 2.5ton mobile home hitch and a metal car bumper

Original equipment caps have indeed changed colour from blue to black, no idea why, but probably financial reasons Dingocroft stock the genuine parts, should you still struggle to get hold of them, just sit down before you as ANYONE the price of the rotor arm!

Plus ex-MOD vehicles tended to have above-average chassis, as they are well undersealed and cavity-waxed.

Couple of bags of cement is enough to stop it boucing too much tbh, absolutely right though, the unloaded ride in a series is..... I would use 'atrocious'... but maybe 'interesting' is a better description

The lightweights were heavier than a standard, soft top, Series motor, but only by around 150Kg from memory, the HD springs used less, but thicker leaves in an effort to stop them breaking under army use, they are higher poundage of course, but not as much as might first be thought.

Absolutely Dano, you do not need to relay anything unless your switches are not rated high enough for the current you are switching. Do not ignore start-up currents though, things like electric fans draw hugely just on starting, which is what will damage a switch over time, if it is near the the limit of it's current rating. I would suggest that anything over a 20A pull you relay, to be on the safe side, anything less than that just switch it normally. Any more than 4 fog lamps on one switch I would relay, and the heated screen needs relaying almost definately. Oh, one last thing, buy quality switches!

I'd be more worried about the lip on the inside of the rear wheel arche, where the door closes, this will definately need trimming. You may well also need to trim the front of the front arches, and bumper end caps (or remove them!). It does all depend on wheel offset, on standard wheels you might get away with it, but have the turning circle of the Jahre Viking, more sticky-out wheels will cure the turning circle, but possibly give you rubbing. Good luck!

One thought, Range Rovers have 2 small fuse boxes under each seat, think they hold 8 or 10 fuses, and have a plastic cover on them to keep the dirt out as well -pretty sure they could be used just as you have done there. Very nice neat job though

Is the three wire solenoid a power valve? Reason I ask is because it has 3 wires going to it, which means it could power a motor in it for mixture adjustment based on lamda feedback control. A pic would probably help a lot here

The HD lightweight springs are VERY hard, I'd suspect they were more than up to the job.... the difficult bit is getting hold of them, when I tried to get some they were out of stock everywhere with no chance of appearing. I went with new, stock springs, which have been great on a lightly loaded soft top, but you have a need for uprated springs, I can see that. If you can't get lightweight ones, have you thought about parabolics? Go to a reputable firm and they should be able to advise you on what it best for you.

Shackles, parabolic springs, spring over axle conversions. Try the search function, I am sure you will find what you are after.

So..... in what way would it ever qualify for tax exempt status? Got me very confused :s

How do you know it is empty before re-filling? You're not relying on the guage are you? These are notoriously unreliable so just keep going till you run out, then try re-filling. If the problem persists then the 80% valve needs replacing, a job you ought to get a LPG fitter to do IMHO.