Bowie69

So..... in what way would it ever qualify for tax exempt status? Got me very confused :s

How do you know it is empty before re-filling? You're not relying on the guage are you? These are notoriously unreliable so just keep going till you run out, then try re-filling. If the problem persists then the 80% valve needs replacing, a job you ought to get a LPG fitter to do IMHO.

Don't think Bish would be interested in that... one SVA was more than enough I think....

Looking really nice! Good work

According to RAVE it is 9.1 litres, however as said above you won't drain it all out unless you disassemble the box (well nearly!). RAVE also states that the level should be checked on level ground, in neutral, at normal operating temperature -contradicts Haynes and the user manual but hey

"It'll only take 2 days to do the engine conversion, tops"

Take the clutch off, make sure it fits the splines on the gearbox, and then try offering up the engine with no clutch on it, to see if it will go together. That should point towards a problem, if there is one.... engines/gearboxes are notoriously difficult to line up sometimes....

You remembered to remove all your tools from it?

I'M NOT THAT FAR AWAY, NO NEED TO SHOUT! I found it on the lightweight LR club forum, the guys name is 'V8 power', pretty sure you need to sign up to the forum to view posts, then just search 'vent panel', you'll find it no probs.

Also agree about the 6 volts not really being enough, I would expect 9V to be a closer figure to acheive half the air throughput. To acheive that.... well yes... there's various ways, most reliable being thyristors.... but you didn't want diodes... so I guess you don't want full-on semiconducotr devices in there

5 mins with Paint and I came up with this: Uses two relays and a shed load of spade connectors, but it can be done without diodes..... at least I think... I have been staring at this PC toooooo long today Excuse the quality of the schematic, I lost my electrical CAD program a while back and not replaced it yet. Oh and the bottom line is of course earth, but I forgot to mark it as such Hope that helps, Bowie.

I'd till be suprised the strut is stopping the axle droop enough, like I said, when I did my rears recently I found I was jacking against the brake lines Definately not recommended, and not intentional! Good job I realised in time. If it is the Boge unit... then not really sure... I suppose they could seize, like anything on a LR, if so go careful, as it could un-sieze suddenly and drop the axle on your foot

To get the longer springs in.... jack up under the chassis, and pop em in -no need for compressors or anything -you need to jack BOTH sides at once, and then allow it to droop right down, the limiting factor will be the brake lines on the diff most likely.... If there is still not enough droop get the bottle jack out and wedge it between the axle and the chassis, then pump! You should be able to EASILY get the clearance to pop them in. The rears should be a lot easier than the fronts tbh -what spacers did you go with in the end? *edit* I'd assumed you had released the shock

Couple of tweaks to the 90, slot the engine/transmission in and tie up the new axles... should be sorted by next bank holiday

If you do get it, there's some spray on gunky stuff you can use to stop the vibes, it also acts as a sound proofing. Give it a go and hope it's OK of course

RAVE says ATF Dexron IID ATF fluid, I'd go with that! Looking through my Haynes I can't see the lubricat type specified anywhere, well not specifically the Borg Warner anyhow...

Nice job, looks very tidy! Was wondering though, are you likely to get drumming without the ribs in it? Being 2mm thick there is some strength, just not sure how much

No probs, it fitted in well with my weekend, so alls good Oh and too much sugar makes me sleepy, that's my excuse and I am sticking with it!

If you think you've flooded it that badly, just leave the plugs out overnight and the petrol should evaporate... replace the plugs and off you go.... fingers crossed I've had this a few times, particularily when priming the V8 oil pump, by disconnecting the coil lead -BAD idea..... it still chucks fuel in and *IF* you get it to start, it gives you clouds of lovely black smoke to look at -not good!

http://www.lightweightlandroverclub.org/ has the proper lightweigth floor panels (which ARE different to standard). Unfortunately 2a vent panels in good nick are like gold dust, even series III to be honest. I'd look at trying to get it repaired if you can, i know someone on Ebay(or was it on here?) was selling channel bent to the right shape for the lower edge of the panel, which makes things a LOT easier! Good luck!

HAHAHA.... erm.... YES! He works at Gerber You could say it is a 'striking' vehicle, yeah? I know it's not LR, but I'll post a few pics when it's done, in 'members vehicles', just for a giggle

Well I offered when you got the new toy, it still stands... just WHEN I am not sure about yet, I have an engine conversion to finish with a mate (yes the one with a Rocsta before you laugh.... but it should go better with a 2.0 DOHC 16V engine in it ) I'll drop you a PM when I know more, probably after this evening! Oh, and I still have my swivels/CVs to do... assuming they arrive....

It's used by joinery firms for spraying windows/doors etc, it works WELL.... but I suspect the charge used is slightly higher than that produced by the hammerite toy.... but you never know It did look a bit slow, yes 4 times faster than a brush, just maybe not me with a brush

You shouldn't need them on the front, the higher poundage and 1" increase inlength should more than make up for a 2" lift.

Erm.... that wouldn't make any difference... you still have a finite amount of heat to get out of the engine bay, how fast you get it out the engine makes no difference what so ever. You still need air going through your radiator and out somewhere else.