Bowie69

Good luck, and take a big torch

Hmm airflow meter plug can get crusty inside, and give the symptoms you describe, might be worth giving it a wiggle, and check that the single black wire from the airflow meter loom is connected securely to the coil -these have a habit of being left off, especially by me and should cut the engine if disconnected... a poor connection might give you the problems you are experiencing.... Also, vacuum leaks! easy to knock a pipe off, and while LPG might run 'OK' it is not as sensitive as Petrol, as it doesn't use the AFM. Check the hose between the AFM and the plenum for splits...

Just take your existing filter off to test, it's virtually the same as K&N then anyways! Oh... as you are on LPG, K&N filters are NOT recommended on a draw through system, they do not allow the engine to give enough suck at the mixer ring, therefore weakening the mixture substantially.... cue backfires! Try blocking off the exhaust pipe exit if you think that it is too free flowing for the engine, this should make it run better if that is the fault... TBH, I'd put money on a wire or two being knocked off during the exhaust installation, as it runs OK on gas, you can discount any of the ignition system, and I'd start by looking at things like your fuel pump feed wire, lambda probe (assuming you have one?) and also all of your LPG installation wiring, it MAY be that you have gas and petrol going into the cylinders at the same time, not good! Hope that helps!

Have you removed the canvas axle strops? That may allow you enough to swing the spring back on the rear shackle to allow it to pop in the front bolt.

I managed a burn right in the fold of my elbow once, made me look like a heroin addict for a week or so For upturned welding now... VERY thick overalls, and a thick jumper helps to stop all of that, especially boots with high enough ankles to stop hot blobs going down your socks

For this reason I have a Morris Traveller sat on it's side the garage as well.... it definately does help!

For piece of mind, I smear a very thin film of sealant on the o-ring before reassembly, mines been like this for 4 years and not started leaking again.

Oh wow that is nasty! Glad mine is plastic that is... until I change it for a shorter/smaller one...

I have the figure of 20 tons rating for a NATO hitch in my mind from somewhere...... granted the crossmember would give way WAAAAAY before this on a 90, but they are strong items....

TBH, I'd suspect a leaking exhaust manifold... given you have receipts for a cam-job. These sound remarkably like the tappets, just a damned sight cheaper and easier to replace! Feel round each exhaust port for a leak, you'll know when you find it cos the hot gas will start slow cooking your finger Good luck.

Have to agree here, nothing like pulling a cross member right in the middle to make it want to bend Two recovery points on each chassis leg would be much better IMHO.

I bet you, if you sent some beer tokens to a forum member, they would send you out a pair of Strombergs they have lying around... if you end up having to go that way.....

Yep, faster, and more angle on the head to stop it filling with much so fast!

Drive the truck in Oz and it will go the right way....

Years ago, a silly thing like that stopped me putting vacuum advance on a lightweight.... for a very long time.... Cheap, pattern parts seem to have an overly long spring, which is not fitted *just* right, will touch something it shouldn't.... Nowadays I love the plug'n'play nature of electronic ignition

I don't think anything is wrong tbh, sucking through the oil filler is normaly for many engine that vent the crankcase back into the inlet. By removing the cap, you are allowing a LOT more air into the crankcase, and therefore sucked in through the crankcase breather and stuffed into the carbs/inlet. Basically you are probably weakening the mixture by taking it off, which will make it run rough. The crankcase on a V8 is pretty much sealed except for the filter on the rear left rocker cover (assuming you have one, not 100% on the older V8s), by opening it you are letting it breathe very freeling, and upsetting the designed balance. That's my take on it anyhow

The manual for it is all over the web, here for starters: http://www.faireyoverdrive.com/guide/page1.htm You should be able to pick out what is and isn't there from that. The hole in the transmission tunnel that is required needs to be cut out yourself, if I recall correctly, bit of measuring and a timber hole saw did it fine on mine, about 2-2.5" diameter. Remember, don't use it in first and second gear, you'll break it HTH, Bowie.

You've not over tightened it have you? Tensioners and water pumps can still go quiet with just a splash of water on them, and a tight belt can make a marginal bearing very noisy...

Impressive! Well done!

I was wondering what sort of 'Petal' you are running Mouse on tbh, pure red rose buds, or the watered down Pansies?

Make sure the points spring isn't shorting on the dizzy body....

Ye I know But if you get stuck, lemme know

Range Rover jack handles work VERY well for the M16.... Sorry about the M12 You're more than welcome to have it back, not had a chance to start the prep work for the rear bumper yet

Looking from the back of the switch, pimple upwards, the right hand terminal is #3... (refer to my previous post for the other pins) I had to grovel around under my Audi to find this out, so I hope you are grateful

Pin 1: High speed switch Pin 2: Low speed switch Pin 3: +12V That's from an Audi workshop manual, which I am pretty sure uses this switch... (it cross-refers OK). It does use a thumping great relay as well, I guess you are? Finding out how the switch works with a multimeter when all terminals are open circuit would be fun Hope that helps anyways Fridge...