Snagger

That would be a left hand drive or flat beam version - DoT is US, as is the phone number at the top of the page. Isn’t the raised kerb side beam pattern a legal requirement in the UK, flat cut beams being illegal? I read that somewhere on the net, so it must be true...😜

My lift pump was OK - that was the first thing I replaced with no effect. But having the injection pump rebuilt sorted it. He was quite explicit about the need for some heavier duty parts being needed for the Bosch pump if running on SVO, and about the small timing advance. Oddly enough, using multiple fuel tanks and a fuel heat exchanger, the 12J in my 109 ran very well on rapeseed, and nearly as well on sunflower oil. My 200 Tdi seemed to run well on heated rapeseed, but was well down on power on sunflower oil.

Well, if you’re happy to give it a punt, why not? Pleasant surprises do sometimes happen! I’d be very surprised if the markings are legit at that price, and I’d expect a bad beam pattern, but let’s see what actually transpires... As for the ludicrous mark ups that happen for LR buyers, yep - have you seen what some diff specialists are charging! 😜

Contrary to popular myth, the Tdis don’t run well on plain vegoil unless the fuel is heated and the injection slightly advanced. But the vegoil needs to be purged with clean diesel for the last part of the run. Apart from sludge and deposits, running with vegoil without modifying the oil or the vehicle will also cause the moisture in the oil to corrode parts of the pump and injectors, a lacquer to be deposited, gumming them up, and it also condenses on the bores and badly gums and comes the rings. Without more frequent oil changes, the vegoil that makes it past the rings polymerises the oil in the sump and starves the lubrication system and bearings. Just a one off trial of a 25% mix of new rape seed oil in an up modified 300Tdi damaged my injection pump, causing minor surging at mid revs, and the specialist who repaired it said that was typical. I think a lot of people just don’t pay enough attention to their vehicles to spot the smaller symptoms. So, I’d say that was a likely candidate for the trouble. Regardless, it sounds like a fuel injection issue, perhaps with an addition oil burn issue (likely the rings and scrubbed bores).

This would be one of the worst, but if it’s for wall decoration, then it wouldn’t matter.

The original explanation of selections was not quite accurate. You should have motive power with the lever forward or aft, whether it is to the left or right. With the lever in the middle “N” position, the transfer box will be in neutral, so the gear box is disconnected from the axles. When you move the lever to the left, “LOCK”, it locks both axles together by locking the differential in the front of the transfer box (do not confuse this with axle locking diffs, which work in the same way but this unit does not lock left and right wheels). To the right, the centre diff is unlocked and you have normal driving with a regular centre diff. This gives 4wd, but if one wheel loses grip, it can spin up while the others lose their drive. The very first thing to check is that you have prop shafts fitted from the transfer box to each axle diff. If one is missing, that axle will have no drive, but it is also highly likely that the shaft was removed to bypass damage inside the axle. If you are only getting drive when the centre diff is locked, one of the axles has a fault and is allowing its innards to spin without transferring the force to the wheels, and as with a wheel with no grip, all the motion is going to that free component. You need to find the cause of the loss of drive, and ideally do it soon as driving on one axle is bad for that part of the transmission, taking the whole force instead of half of it. I’d start by parking on flat ground, chocking both front wheels, putting the brake on and selecting a gear (in case the parking brake doesn’t work) and then lifting both rear wheels off the ground. Try spinning the wheels - turning one should spin the other in the opposite direction. Then try turning one with the other stopped (held, or sitting on the ground) - it should only turn a bit with the slack in the system, but if you can turn it continuously, you have a fault in that axle. If you can only turn it a bit, then repeat the process with the front axle lifted and the rear wheels chocked, but make sure diff lock is open (lever to the right). If you can spin both wheels the same way, or spin one with the other stopped, the front axle is broken. Once you find the broken axle, you’ll need to start looking at the splines on the drive flanges (star shaped end of the hub), the condition of the shafts, and the axle differentials. The original advice about low range being for more grip and diff lock for extreme off road was wrong. High and low range don’t affect grip; they affect speed and torque - low range reduces speed but multiplies torque. Grip IS affected by diff lock - to lose all motive force would require a loss of grip on a wheel on both axles, not just one, so one axle will propel you on very uneven ground when a wheel is in the air, and greatly increases total motive grip in slippery conditions (but does not help with braking or make a huge difference to steering and directional control).

Are those the Ashcroft 23/24 type?

It was the principle of how to fix Chinese made LED units and the general comment on their quality that I was referring to.😉

It’s a video more relevant to the smaller lamps, rather than the headlights, but I’m sure the principle is still just as crucial:

TMD comes to mind, but I’m not at all sure about that.

Mike, wouldn’t you only need the steering lock kit and four barrels? Is that not a standard kit? I assumed after reading all the previous replies and realising I can’t fit the fourth barrel from the kit in my first post to the existing steering lock that the pictured kit is for station wagons with lockable fuel caps, and assumed that the steering lock kits would come with four locks rather than three in order to include the fuel cap; that you have only found them with three locks is surprising. As for your old key opening the newer lock, I have heard that as they wear out, the locks and keys become far more interchangeable. I imagine it is similar,Aron other models and makes, as most have comparable keys and barrels. But there may have been an element of chance involved that you happened to come across a lock that worked with the other key.

The inner column should push out of the outer column with a firm tap of a mallet on the steering wheel end. The lower clamp casting will come off the column the same way. You can remove the upper bearing once the inner column is out by sticking a broom handle inside and then bashing the whole lot down by hand against the floor, so the handle drifts the bearing out the top of the column.

Best wishes to you all.

It’s the Arctic kit for MoD Series vehicles. Very effective.

Britannica Restorations has a YouTube video on replacing these windows and seals, so it’d be worth finding them - he’s very practical. The filler strip must be external on the Alpine Lights due to the curve of the roof - there is no way on earth you’d get it into the groove internally. Rear windows can be either way, but they’re best fitted internally, as was done on most Defenders, to resist perishing and also to improve security, but SIIIs had the filler strip external. I don’t think Defender windscreen seals have a filler strip, but I may be mistaken.

Sorry to hear that some of you are facing some serious issues, but it does highlight how trivial the Covid related restrictions and wearing a mask is by comparison. Not so easy for those losing work and facing financial issues as result, but health is the most important asset you can have.

I have Defender seals on my 109. They really do fit a lot better if you remove the lip from the flange they normally rivet too. But that’s the only alteration needed, and it wouldn’t preclude the use of Series seals later if you wanted to use them.

I don’t have a locking cap - this is all for my 109 which has early Defender doors. The kit with four lock barrels must be for the fuel cap, not the ignition switch, and the kit with three barrels just for the doors. Seeing those kits with the steering lock for around £100 is in line with one of the articles I read in one of the magazines. It’s probably worth my while, though it looks like I’d have to replace the front door handles with the TD5 type and probably the rear door latch outright to fit what appear to be longer barrels. I’ll have to price all that up to see if it’s worth the cost. Thanks for all the replies - very useful and show I was barking up the wrong tree with the kit in the first photo.

Busy, busy!

That could cause a little rattling, but shouldn’t cause the latch to pop. Mine are marked too, but I don’t get any latching problems. I think it’s more likely to be an adjustment issue.

I wouldn’t argue with that, just don’t want to rule out the other bushes! My RRC had terrible road manners at one point, and all four big bushes for the radius and trailing arms were in a bad state, swollen and perished. But the tracking adjustment was also off, and I’m not sure which was causing the wandering most.

These are my keys. The one with the plastic top (1980ish) is the ignition, the long plain one (late 80s) the front doors, and the short one the rear door (probably also late 80s). The ignition and front door keys are similar in length, but the door key has a shorter cut edge. The doors were all second hand, so it is possible that the rear door has a SIII anti rust lock rather than a Defender one. I had to change the plastic handles when I rebuilt the doors, but reused the lock barrels, so I saw they looked like those in the photo above. I don’t know if there are different size barrels of that same appearance - the other type I saw for late Defenders have a black plastic narrow section.

This type:

Hi all, Im looking at replacing my lock barrels to try to get one key work on all of them - I currently have one key for both front doors, another for the rear, and the ignition switch/steering lock barrel are from a 1982 SIII. There are plenty of eBay shops selling kits with three or four barrels for £16-20 on eBay. I remember my front doors (early 200 Defender or late 90/110 plastic handled type) and the rear door (early Defender) have the metal barrels with metal noses, which seem shorter than the later type wi5h a plastic nose on them. But my rear lock has a single sided small key, while the front locks use a key that is much larger and double sided like the ignition key. I have never removed a barrel from a steering lock assembly, so don’t know what goes on in there. Does anyone know if these kits will properly fit the rear door lock and steering lock? The outer part of the barrel looks similar on both my door types, but I can’t remove them to check. I’m only aware of two barrel types (short metal and long plastic nosed) and don’t know if my rear door key and barrel are atypical. Anyone know if that same barrel type fits the steering lock, and how to swap them? Having three keys where one would suffice gets on my nerves... 🙄

Automatics are much better on soft conditions like dry sand, and that was part of why I was looking at fitting one. In theory, you can’t stall the engine on bill climbs, either. Hill descents are a bit swifter, though, so swings and roundabouts.