Snagger

For the money Khan charge and the claims they make, I stand by the remark. If the track needs to be widened, there are much better methods of doing it, and while spacers or offset rims may be ok in isolation (varying opinions on that in the long term), they most certainly shouldn’t be combined.

The axle casing issue was a problem with the welds between swivel flange and the axle tube. That should be an easy spot. The oversize wheels plus spacers will have put a lot of stress on the wheel bearings, swivels and steering components, and probably some of the suspension too, so when you say 25k easy road miles, you are unfortunately missing the harm that this botched up conversion has suffered. The swivel bearings, wheel bearings and stub axles are all likely to show significant wear and any or all of them could be responsible for the wobble. Offset wheels and spacers exaggerate any play or asymmetry in what the wheels are doing, as well as causing accelerated wear, so they will almost certainly be the underplaying cause. The new steering damper is a gas damper, which by definition shouldn’t be used on the steering. Terra firms don’t enjoy a good reputation, anyway. If the original steering damper is ok, refit it. It won’t be responsible for the problem, though - the damper merely hides wobbles and kicks, but can’t cause them.

The cups are only to be used with void bushes, which are flattish rubber cones with a hollow inboard face. The more traditional solid cylindrical bushes should have steel washers on each side of the bracket with a collar that sits into the bracket hole and a lip on the outer circumference to retain the bush. The void bush idea appeared around the introduction of the 300Tdi, I think. It’s not very durable by comparison to the older system.

If it isn’t a requirement to place indicators outboard of tail lamps when mounted side by side, then it is certainly the assumed norm. I cannot think of any vehicle that has them the other way around, and while having tail lamps denote the full width of the vehicle is desirable, having turn indications inboard of the tail lamps could be confusing, especially if only one of the tail lights is visible to the following vehicle. Try to picture just tail or brake lights, possibly part obscured, with no other visual references, and imagine the perception of inboard indicators - they would be counterintuitive.

Yes, those blanking plates do make it a bit pointless. He’d have been better off keeping the tail/brake lights up high, fitting twin fog lamps inboard of the indicators and twin reverse lights inboard of those, if he wanted the full deck along the bottom. But maybe he just wanted to remove the light covers from inside the tub without leaving exposed wiring to gain a little extra storage space. I’m sure he had his reasons.

Ah, so how’s the “Mr Fusion” unit coming along? Is only for electric DeLoreans?😉

Perhaps they hadn’t broken the 88” jig?

They stopped doing 109s in around 2004 or 2005 - I have one of their last, and it was misjigged - the dumb iron spring bolt locations were different from side to side, the rear spring mini-outriggers for the rear shackles are 1/2” different, the engine mounts and gear box cross member are around 1.5-2” aft of where they should be (and they galvanised the chassis with the cross member fitted, so the bolts are welded in place), and the tub floor support hoops were incorrectly positioned so the front end of the tub was 2” high on the left and 2.5 on the right. Trust me, you don’t want anything Marsland made themselves,

Aren’t the Marsland chassis genuine GKN units stripped and galvanised? Maybe the current stock weren’t made by GKN, but by Marsland with the GKN tooling, but either way, they are correct spec and detailing.

Not correctly colour coded as my harness didn’t have the option and I ran the extra wires from the fuse box, but it shows the switch and how it is mounted: https://www.nickslandrover.co.uk/fitting-reverse-lights/

The engineering is perfectly possible, but it is expensive (it’s one of the big issues for the space industry and one of their big costs), and maintenance would be too, with extensive training and recurrent requalification for repair technicians. It’ll make motoring much more expensive than BEVs. The maritime industry, on the other hand, may be able to do this economically, for freighters and tankers, maybe even smaller, shorter range ships like ferries.

I want improved diffs for winter roads, with snow and ice. The rear ETC on my RRC kept me going in UK snow when everything else on the road was stuck, so a couple of ATBs will give even better capability in poor weather. It might not be a frequent problem, but that’s now - the frequency of bad weather events only seems to be increasing. Plus I’d like to do a couple of Artic trips, all the way around Scandinavia in winter and Iceland. Locking diffs or LSDs aren’t only about being up to your eyeballs in mud.

It sounds like you have the working light fitted reversed, so the brake light is illuminating instead of the tail light. That can happen if you have the wiring the wrong way, or correct wiring with the bulb I steered 180 degrees out. That much current may be stopping the other one working if you have a bad earth.

Turbo Technics have a good name, the Turner Engineering of turbos. I had a very bad experience of the Turbo Centre in Reading,

Both dampers would work in that system. The amount they work would not quite be equal because the axle moves in an arc around the front end of the trailing arm and A-frame, where they connect to the chassis, so if the dampers were set symmetrically fore and aft at rest, then the aft damper will travel a bit more of its stroke than the fore damper, but not enough to matter. Unless you’re carrying very heavy loads all of the time, you’ll have very stiff and uncomfortable suspension that may reduce handling as much as comfort as the suspension will struggle to conform to uneven surfaces. Most suspension “upgrades” sold by aftermarket suppliers are anything but.

I remember a white wire with orange trace inside the dash of my 109. It had a white in-line fuse holder. I can’t remember whether it was for the hazard lights or a the cabin heater fan, but I think it was the latter. It may have fed the dash switch before it split to the two wires to the motor. Not sure if that was standard or not - it may have bypassed the main fuse box to prevent an unreliable system from blowing fuses to more important and reliable systems.

One of the big issues with hydrogen is making the system leak-free - hydrogen is a very small atom, so very hard to seal in.

If you fit the indicators outboard, stop/tail lights next and fog and reverse lights inboard, that will be legal and similar positioning dimensionally to most cars.

I think the heavy white wire with orange trace is for the glow plugs, via the resistor in a steel bracket on the bulkhead if you have the original 5v type series connected plugs, or direct to the harness across all the plugs if you have the retrofit 12v parallel wired plugs (much better).

It’s some sort of synthetic flocking. Don’t scrub it, and don’t soak it. You may be able to clean it with a white spirit dampened rag and light stroking or swabbing and dabbing, but any kind of hard rubbing with cloth or worse a brush will make a mess of the texture. That’s why the newer types went to a wipe clean vinyl.

It’s more my feeling about the character of the vehicle than it’s capabilities. I like what they have done with the Bronco, and it certainly looks a good bargain, but for whatever reason, there is something I prefer about the look and feel of the Wrangler. Perhaps it’s seeing so many of them where I live and how personalised and modified many of them are (some for the better, some for the worse), a bit like the classic Land Rovers.

Me too. Perhaps not “very”, but “quite” (that British sort of quite). Not so much the US vehicles - I admire those but would only fancy a Wrangler. But yes, I’d rather like a Grenadier, few minor quibbles aside.

The eBay example is a vinyl covered late Defender example. Yours is from a 90 or 110, before 1989 and the Defender name. If it can be cleaned up, it might be quite valuable to someone restoring a 90 or 110 - not many would be as intact as yours.

Not much wheel arch to get in the way there! 😉

That’s the older type of headlining, pre-Defender. It’s not aftermarket or recovered. Not many are that clean at this age.