Snagger

332521 bolts on the bottom edge of the rear wing, behind the wheel arch, up to the tub floor corner, and is there to give rigidity to the wing panel. 330303/4 will do the same job for the sills and tub sides in front of the wheel arch, connecting from the mating flange between tub side panel bottom and sill panel to the chassis outriggers.

That does rather sound like a fluid related problem knocking out the selection system or torque converter, or the torque converter failing.

How about reverse? Have you tried the other forward selections? I remember that the spray clutch can cause trouble if the cams invert, but I thought that was a 22 problem, eliminated on the 24.

I had a similar warning light appear on my Volvo (the manual says it was the emissions control warning, but doesn’t say what inputs it has). It stayed on for a few days and by the time the appointment at the dealer came around, it had self cleared. They claimed to have put it on the diagnostic computers as I requested, but were very vague and evasive, but that’s what you get down here from the “technicians” - I’m doubtful they did any more than drive it around the block. I think that a poor or missing signal, probably during self tests on start up, probably gets flagged and triggers the light, but if the next however many engine runs the manufacturer decides on are normal, the fault is cleared from the ECU. Again, not stated in the manual, but that seems to be what happened to me, so quite possible on that Pretender.

Yes, certainly, for the types with the plastic handle and push-button on the outside. I think the early windup window doors with the old style recessed outer handles may have used the same striker pins as the anti burst locks on the two-piece doors. But those doors are rare and usually rotten. I’d love a pair for my 109, but hundreds of pounds to get a pile of rust and torn trim cards is hard to justify!

If you have the budget, definitely go for the Roverdrive (now called Roamerdrive because the scumbags in Tata love to sue anyone with the slightest, most tenuous excuse as to trademarks and copyrights). It’s a lot tougher and a lot quieter, and doesn’t weep as much. It also doesn’t add to maintenance as it doesn’t have it’s own oil reservoir to drain and refill.

Excellent!

I have one that I bought via Gary as a project to do out here, but with the industry and my pay and job security taking a nose dive, I haven’t done anything about rebuilding it. The intention was to keep it as a spare. I could be persuaded to sell it on, but the problem is getting it to you.

The overdrive will give roughly the same effect as the HRTC when engaged, close enough that the difference wouldn’t be noticeable. The Fairey should be OK behind the Tdi if you use it as a fifth gear. They’re not as robust as the Roverdrive, which is why I upgraded. I don’t know if a Fairey would react well in 1st or 2nd over an extended period, and Fairey recommended against that even with the standard engines. A complete Fairey should cost around £300-400, but might need a strip and rebuild with new seals, bearings and clutch sleeve, perhaps a main shaft too if the small splines are worn out. Still cheaper than the Roverdrive, but not as robust and howls more.

Apparently, some people have too much money. I can help them with that - they need only ask, rather than find silly ways to spend it!

“Tranny box” could be quite a subject. Are we even allowed to discuss such a thing in these “enlightened and liberal” times? 🤔😜

They’re a very tidy and practical improvement over the truck cab windows.

You’ll find lots of photos on that blog, Joris. I must go back and tidy it up at some point to make it easier to read.

Oh bugger! Sorry to hear that. There’s a lot of it going around just now.

Yep, this is correct.

The car has been laid up for the last few years and I can’t take a look, but for the few years it was driving with the gaiters fitted, they were fine. No leaks (I have 1-shot grease in those swivels), and only a little road grime on the outside.

I did. http://www.nickslandrover.co.uk/tub-still/ https://www.nickslandrover.co.uk/tub/ https://www.nickslandrover.co.uk/tubbulkhead-alignment/

I used that gaiter set on my RRC. It holds fine once bonded. Just be patient and thorough with the bonding - any small gaps will not only allow water ingress, but will also be the start of future tearing open.

The Discovery timing case has the huge benefit in the Series models of raising the FIP up so the standard Series engine mounts will work. The Defender version and the 12/19j timing case puts the pump in the way and necessitates the right bracket modifications on the chassis. No big deal in itself, but should you decide to fit coiler axles, then the front prop UJ fouls the lower engine mounting on spring compression and with the spring/axle wrap on just moderate braking. Guess how I know...😒. If you never intend to fit AC, but do want PAS or twin alternators, then the easy fit is the Discovery engine with Defender manifolds and a Series alternator mount on a spacer, with the PAS pump or second alternator on a bracket atop the timing case. I have the PAS pump up there, driven on a second belt off a second water pump pulley mounted back to back with the first water pump pulley. It works a treat (I’m wary of all the ancillaries being driven by one belt from the crank shaft, but that is how it is done on the Discovery engine anyway, so it’s OK, if less than ideal).

That works. I just set the gap at the bottom to the correct measurement, and once the tub was fixed, set the same measurement at the top. 594mm rings a bell, but that may well be incorrect and would definitely need checking.

I presume you are going to build it up as left hand drive. There are a few bits that are specific to which side the driver is on, including the instrument binnacle, the steering column, hand brake lever, gear stick, lower dash, heater blower casing and maybe the matrix housing (maybe you can fit the matrix in the same housing facing the opposite side?). It’d be easier to source a LHD base vehicle than convert one.

I think the cases are generally the same, but may have different mounting stud patterns for the Lucas and Bosch injection pumps. The 19j and Defender Tdi PAS alternator bracket does not connect to the Discovery timing case, so would only be attached by two bolts and would snap them off, as opposed to the three bolts that Series alternator and non-PAS 12/19j alternator brackets had. The Discover crank pulley doesn’t align with the pulleys on the PAS pump or alternator if you use the Defender mount, so you’d need the extra crank pulleys or a spacer between the block and the bracket, but the front pulley would still be needed for the coolant pump if you have the Discovery timing case. The 19j pulleys will fit the Discovery crank.

The wrap is often called Denso Tape, I think (unless I’m confusing it with something else🤔). It was common on road cars with leaf springs, but not Land Rovers. I don’t know if that’s a cost saving or to prevent water or mud that got in off reading from being trapped inside the wrap.

Defender seats are a really easy fit, as long as you get the types with only one bolt hole on each end of the seat rails - they bolt straight in using the existing bolt holes exposed when you remove the steel channels that support the basic seat squabs. You can use the earlier or post 2007 later types with equal ease. If the heater is reconditioned with a new matrix and the rest of the system is repaired so that there are no holes, then it provides adequate heat, but I’m sure she’d appreciate heated seats in winter if she’s going to be in northern France. The Exmoor Trim heater kits are good for that. The MudStuff.co.uk mirror heaters are very good, and I have been impressed with the Devin 4x4 heated front screens - they not only are effective in clearing the screens of condensation, but also prevent exterior condensation and active frost, and allow the cabin heater to warm the driver rather than the screens. So, while a bit of a luxury, for an older person, they are a huge benefit to the safety and usability of the vehicle. Of course, if she is living near sea level in the south, it isn’t an issue!

It shouldn’t be a problem to use normal length dampers if yours sits at normal height.