Eightpot

I could well be wrong, but I think there is a truck cab rapier version as well with a seperate tilt which should be just the job - if it's not a figment of my imagination..

My old n/a engine was good for cooking as the manifold/rocker cover made a better cradle shape - done a few pasties and made a nice ham and melted cheese baguette wrapped in foil. I reckon I could cook a roast on my seatbox though, and throw some taters in the footwell.

I was initially pleased with mine, but they aren't as sturdy as I thought they might be. An off road trip round Libya totally and utterly killed the rears in three weeks. Fronts are still ok, and for mild use and regular laning I would say they are good value for money.

I won't touch Britpart again, shocking quality. Just some of the Britpart horrors I have bought - Speedo cable - lasted 15k miles Rear brake drums - poorly machined and were oval meaning the brakes can't be adjusted properly Brake master cylinder - went on in worse condition than the 20 year old one it replaced and needs to be binned. Alternator - lasted for 120 miles then the bearings collapsed sending the pulley fan through the casing. water pump - did about 8k before expiring. I'll only touch genuine, Bearmach or allmakes gear now.

Nothing wrong with the STT's in sand, and they are particularly good on harmada (robust and don't get chewed up on sharp rocks, very good aired down). They can feel a bit like they are biting in to the sand on deep soft sand when above 25psi, but aired down they float well and I've had no probs at long periods of 10-15psi on very hot sand. I've done about 4-5k on hamada/piste/sand and the same on tarmac with this set - they have worn very well indeed. Haven't tried ST pattern or BFG to compare, but I would have no hesitation in buying STT's again. Have travelled with people on ST pattern and they also had no probs.

There are different types of screen rail and the leading edge of the hood differs to fit the appropriate type of rail. Take a look at the All Wheel Trim web site, they have some good info on the different types. S111 sticks could probably be modified, but first thoughts are an S111 is a bit shorter - best to use 90 ones. You will also need the sections that fit over the doors etc. If you can get a roll bar from an ex mod soft top, they have the seat belt mountings attached. they slide into tubes behind the bulkhead so you would need to fabricate these.

Cheers Les, I'll have another good old bash at it then - don't think they're going to come off easy though - the front discs were so rusted onto the hubs I had to grind them off!

Picked up a freelander recently and the brakes are the worst I've ever come across - fronts were seized solid and rusted up and the rear drums seem pretty corroded round the edges too. I need to get them off to check the shoes - I've removed the retainer screws and given them a light 'tap' with a club hammer and they don't shift. Before I give them a heavy tap with a sledge hammer, do the shoes normally need backing off first - I can't see any signs of an adjuster on the backplate?

I picked up a mint rangie air con compressor for 40 quid. You'll be able to sell your TD5 one for the same or more, so that makes it instantly cheaper and easier than buying pulleys and modifying brackets I reckon?

I doubt there is a C&U reg against it specifically - and spares used to be carried on the sides of cars up till the fifties anyway. You may fall foul of interpretation of MOT rules which state that no projections from the bodywork are allowed that may harm pedestrians, as it will stick out. Even if there is no specific ruling against bolting a wheel to the side of a vehicle, you are still at risk of prosecution if a non standard modification you have made causes injury, or if an accident could be in any way contributed towards it - as we have seen recently.

Rather than lug a wolf wheel and dirty big mud tyre round, which will probably never get used, and which I think is too heavy for my swingaway, I plan to get a standard skinny rim and 7.50 tyre and either mount it on the bonnet, chopping the mounting rubbers down so it sits as low as poss, or on the swingaway. I seem to remember when I first got my ex mod 90, it had the skinny army tyres on and it wasn't that obtrusive on the bonnet - 235/85's don't work at all... The spare only needs to get you somewhere to repair/replace a tyre. Failing that, just carry a set of tyre irons, a CO2 bottle and a spare tyre. The tyre string repair kits are ok as well, carry one of those and no spare and hope you don't blow the sidewall out. If there are a few of you going, share a spare!

the tabs sit on top of the rear cross member, same as the normal td5 tank cradle I would have thought.

You could take the heater out, remove the matrix and put it in a much smaller box, mount that on the dash then attach a length of air duct to the demist vents with one of the in-line fans that Merlin motorsport sell. You could even mount the matrix inside the cavity of the lower dash assembly.

By the time you've made a roof rack, boarded it, added a tent and mattresses, and then a ladder - you'll probably realise where all the weight comes from in a roof tent I've been in some killer storms in mine in Slovenia or somewhere (Autohome tent, German made) and it's solid as a rock and completely waterproof - I certainly wouldn't want to be in a pop up tent on the roof of a car when it starts howling. Some of the African made tents are less weatherproof though but they are still very sturdy. The chinese made ones would probably fold like a paper lantern. The only worthwhile use for a rooftent, other than stopping animals with a fear of heights getting you, is convenience. Stop where you like, flip it open and get in bed. Useful in the wilds, less so if you're stopping at campsites. If you have to faff with stuff too much it isn't worth the climb. The annoying thing with rooftents, especially in Euro/UK camp sites is they sudenly make you the centre of focus and are like a magnet for children.

buggers! Hope it hasn't done too much damage - did you get it done on insurance or have you had to put a new door glass in yourself? - I hate messing about with window channels. That glass gets everywhere as well, you'll be picking bits of that out for months.

Stick a coat hanger on it. if you insist on doing it properly though, you need to bend the plastic mudshield out the way (remove the silly plastic rivets), and you should just about be able to get an arm up the inside of the wing. Fairly easy job after that as I remember it.

We're almost twins - I have 57KG38 (try four wheel trim for your tilt fittings) by the way, I also need some wolf type door cards - if anyone has a set I'll buy them straight away. cheers

I replaced mine last year and didn't remove the wing to do it - no problem at all. I think I just cut the old one out with an angle grinder, drilled the spot welds out of any remaining flanges and then inserted the new panel. Where I couldn't get in with a riveter I used nuts and bolts.

I got a GPS 92 out of my soft top 90 when I tried a few months ago. I was feeling quite pleased with myself as well, overtaking BMW's in the outside lane, giving it large past landcruisers etc when BANG and there was a massive bright flash and a huge wall of air hit me - I thought I'd been blown up or hit by a plane - after about five seconds of intense shock and trying to get my bearings and bringing what felt like a crashing B52 bomber into the inside lane, I realised that the hood had blown off due to the force of the air!

Had a similar sympton myself which turned out to be slightly worn bolts in the panhard rod - makes a clunk sound when turning. Only a small amount of wear but makes quite a loud knock.

The later 300's are different, I believe the last of them got a rear fuel tank, and the exhaust is definately different (I fitted one). The early ones do have the 'sideways' exhaust though, so you do have to get the later type.

If possible, take the 200TDi rear section back to the shop and see if you can swap it for a late 300TDi section? These are the same shape as your old n/a exhaust but a larger diameter and should attach to your old mounts. The 300TDi exhaust runs from front to back and doesn't have the sideways rear section like a 200TDi (because 300TDi's have rear fuel tanks) It will also attach to your stainless centre section ok.

what a ****ty thing to do. Never touch a mans wheels. Hope the thieving pikeys head got stoved in. Feckers probably rolled it on purpose just to get the wheels off once they found bricks weren't high enough.

You could also try Omega Pistons - http://www.omegapistons.com/index.php?opti...er&Itemid=8 no experience with them other than they are near me and have been around for donkeys making custom race pistons.

You could try something like this too: http://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/AIR-DUCT..._314/index.html I bought a couple of metres of snorkel extension hose from mm4x4 for about a tenner a meter, which was perfect for the job.