steve_d

Instruction leaflet INS160 that you get with your V5 says you must inform DVLA of any changes to the vehicle. If the changes are not covered by any of the boxes on the V5 you must still tell them by way of a letter. Quite what constitutes a change you need to inform them about I can't say but a body change or body mods would be high up on the list. It would be my understanding that an IVA would not be required but if you have changed something like the body then they may want it to have a VIC inspection. Steve

I have a whole heap of 3.5 swapsies over her in Waterlooville. ECU, flapper, res pack, coil, dizzy, etc. The dead engine has an uprated cam in it too. Steve

Receipts will most certainly be required by DVLA and photos would help. Photos will have to be sent to VOSA with the IVA application. Amateur build status is their classification so you have to convince them before they will agree to you taking a test. Once agreed they will ask you to contact the test centre to arrange a suitable test date. Steve

Agree with the above. Walk in and slap said bearing on the counter and say 'I'll have one of those please'. Takes all the hassle out of it. It was a bearing guy who cured a problem I had years ago. The gearbox output shaft on my bubble car kept leaking no matter how many times I replaced the lipped seal. Problem was the seal had worn a slight groove in the shaft and there were no replacements to be had. Bearing guy gave me two seals that were half the thickness of the original so when fitted to the 'box both lips sat on an unworn part of the shaft. Steve

If the chassis has been modified then you will first need to demonstrate the origin of the chassis by way of both the V5 and the chassis will need to be inspected by DVLA. They will then need to allocate a new VIN number which you will stamp into the chassis alongside the original which you will strike through but not obliterate. You will need to do the same with the VIN plate under the bonnet. After IVA it will most likely get a Q plate. Steve

As many already know there are issues over many of the vehicles we as a group run. If the vehicle has been modified, and in particular if the chassis has been modified in any way, we must inform the DVLA. If you inform DVLA they will most likely require the vehicle to take, and pass, an SVA test. The crunch is that there is no SVA group the vehicle can be tested under so it has to (by default) take the Enhanced SVA (ESVA) test. ESVA is primarily for imported production vehicles and requires you to demonstrate, by way of paperwork, that the vehicle complies with all the EC regulations. It is obvious that this is not going to be possible. As a result people are just not telling the DVLA and the vehicle remains illegal and could be impounded and crushed. At the same time insurance is no longer valid. During a recent browse of the IVA manual I detected a very subtle change in some wording compared to SVA. As a result I phoned VOSA and spoke to the technical advisor and had my discovery confirmed. The wording is as follows:- C. Amateur Built Amateur Built is one which is substantially constructed, assembled or structurally modified by the constructor (or others acting on their behalf) for personal use by the constructor. The critical bit is 'Structurally modified'. The guy at VOSA confirmed that this was specifically intended to encompass bobtail and trayback type modification of vehicles. He went on to say that you would still need to photographically convince them of amateur build but this need only include the cutting and shutting involved and not chassis up build. He even agreed that if I were to buy a bobtail already modified, but not declared, this could still be possible if the photos were available. This is, I believe, a great step forward even though the test is not easy to pass it is possible and will render the vehicle completely legal. I have further info regarding replacement chassis numbers and Light Goods vehicle testing which I can go into later but this will do for the moment. Steve

I would start with the Haynes. They tend to get bad press but I've noticed this comes primarily from those who know more about the car than average and fail to recognise that someone starting out with the car will find it a great help. The front of the manual will include the service items, when to do them and point you at the chapters that show you how. A more advance manual may be too technical. You may not have found the Tech Archive on here yet. It is worth looking there the find threads like paint codes http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopi...mp;#entry221533 Steve

Two thoughts Are you sure you did nothing else at the same time as making this connection? Is very easy to be doing plenty of bits and think that the last one you did is the cause. The sensor on the RRC goes into an electronic module on the back of the dash. The module then connects to the instrument so there may be a fundamental difference in the way the two cars should be wired. Steve

You don't say what year but I have been right through the wiring of an 87 RRC and there is no fusible link. Steve

Have you tried just replacing the sender? The gauge in the instrument pod is controlled by a module built into the instrument pod so if that has failed you best bet is then an Aux. Try car builder solutions http://www.cbsonline.co.uk/gauges-232-c.asp. They do a gauge and if you did not want to mess with the existing they do an adaptor that fits in the top hose to take the sensor. Steve

The normal response of 'That'll polish out' is not going to work this time. Good call by MOT guy. Steve

Not sure if those links within links are going to answer the question as some of them were stalk and switch related. In your case I suspect all that has happened is the crank arm on the motor has lipped some splines. The shaft has a tapered splined section behind a thread. The crank arm has a hole with corresponding spline. When fitted to the motor a nut on the thread keeps the arm pressed onto the spline so if the nut loosens it will slip. If I'm right then the fix is to further loosen the nut and position the wipers in park and tighten the nut. The bummer is of course getting at it. Steve

Have you driven it yet since freeing it up? It may be that you are selecting it freely but something inside is still sitting in one place. I can select my RRC out of lock but the light does not go out until you move off. Steve

It will be very faint and difficult to find. On a RRC it is between and just above the lower steering box bolts. Steve

It's a new one on me too. Have to agree that the extra pressure is coming from somewhere. Saving grace for the moment is that it can't be too big a leak or it would release the pressure when the engine cools. I think it is a waiting game but if you really feel you must do something then perhaps a run round the head bolts with a torque wrench may nip a problem in the bud. Steve

If it were mine I would attack it with WD40 and free it up. However, I don't know if that is the right thing to do for the long term. Steve

I don't really know what I'm talking about here as I've never done it but is this not the ideal time for a body lift? It may be that there is far more involved making cutting the footwell the easiest solution. Steve

If you look at the terminals on the amp they form a T shape. Ignition switched live (White) goes to coil positive and the ignition amp (leg of the T) Ignition amp (top of the T) (White/black) goes to coil negative. If running the ecu then there should be a resistor from the coil negative and the other end connects to the ecu. Steve

Is it pressure or vacuum you're are experiencing? Steve

I've got a pair hanging on the garage wall. They are marked LVB500030. Got sent them in error and supplier refused to pay the return postage. Downside is they are Britpart. Steve

If I were to assume you mean a bearing inner race stuck on a shaft then put a diagonal cut in it with an angle grinder then drive a chisel into the cut. Steve

Whilst you are replacing the strap it may be worth adding another. My RRC has three separate engine earth straps that all seemed to be original. Steve

I assume you are doing the plugs as well. The spark will, as you say, escape somewhere so if it can't jump the plug gap it will find the next weak link in the chain. It may be that with the plugs in good order the leads will be fine but if it were me I would replace plugs and all the leads. Steve

I've always used a scraper made from a broken hacksaw blade. Grind off the teeth and grind a cutting edge square across the end. Steve

Can I ask what form of competition this is for? The reason I ask is that a vehicle used in a competition that could potentially crush the roof does not normally double up as a family car. I'm thinking along the lines that a roll over on road could also cause similar damage and you would want to protect your passengers rather than removing that protection. Bottom line.... what about an external cage. Steve