steve_d

A side question....where are you mounting your coil packs? Last photo stopped me dead as the dizzy stopper looks just like the one I've just turned up. Steve

You have got the resistor at the coil terminal for the B/W wire? I think it is there so the spike from the ignition does not blow the ECU. Steve

Had a look at that link and it looks like the back has been reduced so check before you go that route. Having said that the retention of a load bed will most likely mean you only have to do the commercial SVA which is no where as strict as the normal SVA. You will have to get a new VIN number from DVLA and stamp it into the chassis before it goes for SVA Steve

There are but air could be trapped up there if pipes like the heater or throttle body pipes are blanked. Steve

The words say a replacement chassis "of the same specification as the original supported by evidence from the dealer/manufacturer (e.g. receipt)" so much depends on how the chassis is described on the receipt. Steve

Don't forget if you shorten the chassis (rear overhang) then you will need to pass SVA. Steve

I take it you have not been following Al's concrete working party thread. If you put your stuff in one corner it would be too far away to see it from the opposite corner. Check the photos on his thread. Steve

How about a magnet? How about a vacuum cleaner? How about bluetac on the end of a stick? How about superglue on the end of a stick? By the time I got to the bottom I think I favour the superglue if you can find something that will go down inside the sleeve. Steve

The Circuit I have is for 1990 W/S is +12v W/P goes to fuel pump but should have a fuse inline. B/Y is efi warning symbol. I assume this is a light to tell you there is an efi fault. Y road speed transducer....not sure if system will work without this. O/B Auto trans neutral switch or connect to a 510 Ohms resistor if manual. Do you have the Lambda sensors? Do you have the W/B wire and resistor connected to the coil negative? Steve

Or just put pressure reduction in the line to the steering box. That way you have the full power of the new pump without blowing away the Vit steering box. Steve

May be a good route particularly since doing MS on the RV8 is a precursor to putting it on my 508HP Chevy engine which I have been known to work quite hard and was not cheap to build. Problem is I have not seen anyone saying that any particular after-market knock system works properly. They all seem to have issues over fine tuning them and in some cases the sensitivity has to be turned down so far you wonder if it actually going to hear anything. Anyone on here used one? Steve

How much engine are you getting? If it has all the ancillaries then leave them on. If not then this 'Cheap' engine is going to be a lot of work. If you are going to keep the flapper then you will also have to swap out the whole inlet manifold and plenum. Steve

Agreed the MS table offers scope to tweek the timing in all areas. If I were playing with the timing on a non MS engine I would put it under load at various revs and keep adding more advance until it pinked then back it off a couple of degrees and this is also a method with MS. Unfortunately mine is an auto so as soon as you try and apply load it changes down. Can you point me at a table you consider suitable, or a good starting point, for a standard 3.9 serpentine? Many thanks Steve

MFR means manufacturer. You need to go over the gassy bits and find any manufacturer and model names or part numbers then others can help. Steve

I would use a standard stat and run the hose from the manifold down to the bottom hose. The risk of air locks and the damage they could cause far outweighs the risks involved in the extra pipework. Steve

My main concern at the moment is the spark table. Haynes for the 3.9 says initial advance at tickover without vacuum is 4 degrees and the general consensus is 36 degrees all in at 3000 so that sets the 100KPa line. Megamanual then says add 0.3 for every KPa which pretty much ties in with the 10 degrees vac advance on a dizzy. I have never seen an advance table posted here that looks anything like that and all the ones I have seen have been vastly different to each other. If the timing is wrong how can you expect to get the VE right? Steve

That's it. Looked all over for it. How did you find it and where exactly is it? What are your thoughts on what I am proposing. Would not be surprised at a 'not worth the effort' or 'making more of this than necessary' type response. Steve

I have used the Halfords pads without problems. Clean the glue off with an alcohol cleaner or brake cleaner (Naphtha). Steve

If I'm reading this right you have the engine loom but don't have the in-car loom, relays and ECU which is a bit of a show stopper. If you have all these then I can tell you what you need as inputs and outputs from the EFI system. Steve

When MS is using a table and is between boxes it interpolates a figure to use from the boxes either side. But, if you go off the table does it try and interpolate from where it left the table or just use the last figure where it left the table. I'm sure I have seen it somewhere but can't find it again and can't remember which it does. Reason for the question may seem strange but let me explain. Example 1. Take a spark table...Compared to a dizzy you would expect all the mechanical advance to be in by 3000rpm and that would equate to the 100KPa line. All the KPa values down the 3000 column would then increase with vacuum advance ending with about another 10 degrees by the time you get down to 15-20KPa. Any rev columns above 3000 would be the same and a waste of space if MS uses the last box value in a table when you go off the table. If you created a table that only went up to 3000 you could create a more detailed and smoother table with the extra columns. Example 2. The VE & AFR tables I have seen include 15 and 20KPa rows but my tickover has been up at about 38-42 (not tuned out yet) so anything below that will be over-run. Having set one row below your tickover value to what you want on over-run then any rows below that are again a waste and could be used to fine tune the areas higher up. Any thoughts? Steve

I still have my red licence and my orange provisional.......sad? They offered me a photo licence but my signature is somewhat wayward and would not fit into their tinkle little box. After two attempts I gave up. Glad I didn't get one now. Steve Edit.....I did not write tinkle.......the system changed it from my wording.

It'll be an impressive log burner that heats that place up. Steve

I don't think it has been mentioned but I get the feeling there is a target for the completion. Is it destined for a particular competition or trip? Looking good so far. Steve

B hell, never thought I would see welding worse than mine. Well done. Steve

If your V5 has the correct engine size, fuel type and the engine number is correct then as far as I'm concerned it is correctly registered. Steve