steve_d

A facet or other make external pump will be a better job than an OEM in-tank one and will be easier all round. as you already have a tank and low pressure you only need a high pressure pump, a surge pot and some pipe. Steve

I never rebuild master cylinders. If it fails everything is lost whereas most systems are designed to cope with the failure of a wheel cylinder. I looked at rebuilding callipers but you get all the bits and start only to find one bore scored and another corroded so you then buy new callipers and have a pile of service kits left over. Was advised on here some while ago not to use vented as they can fill up with mud and overheat when back on the road. Steve

Have been challenged in the past about using the swirl pot description as most on the market are not correctly designed and do not 'swirl'. If the the pipes from the tank and from the fuel rail enter the pot at a tangent it will make the fuel in the pot rotate (swirl) this gives time for bubbles to go to the top and be returned to the tank rather than going to the fuel rail. Swirl is important for a dry sump oil system but petrol is so thin a simple tank will work fine and could even be square/rectangular. Steve

Mabbs Fill in your profile. Someone nearby may have a spare pump laying in the garage you could borrow. Bit like my one actually. Steve

You can buy a kit or built. See the 'For sale' section as there is a guy on here sells them. You will then need to fit a trigger wheel to the back of the front pulley and a VR sensor (ex Ford Escort) to point at the trigger wheel. Then a Pair of Escort coil packs plus mounting brackets. What has not perhaps been explained to you is that Jolt can run different ignition maps for each fuel as they each like there spark timed differently. Also be warned the Ford coil packs produce monster sparks which will do you no good if you get too close. FF has a picture somewhere of a coil pack in full Guy Fawkes mode. Steve

Shoot me down if I'm on the wrong track as I don't know exactly what a 'trialler' does. Is it going to see extreme angles front to back or side to side? Is it going to see sustained side G forces? If either, then the risk exists where the fuel surge or tilt angle of the tank will leave the pickup drawing air. This will quickly kill an efi pump and the lean running engine will not be happy either. If at an angle for any length of time the engine will get no fuel and stall. IMHO you should fit a surge tank which could be about a foot long and 4" diameter vertically to a bulkhead. Fit a low pressure pump from the tank to supply a surge tank and a return from the surge to the tank. The efi pump then takes fuel from the bottom of the surge and the return from the fuel rail also goes to the top of the surge. The result is that no matter what angle you are sitting at or what G is being applied there will be about 2 litres of fuel to use even if no more is coming from the main tank. Steve ETA Damn, took too long typing.

All this fuss over a gas BBQ. Steve

Sorry, have to ask....possibly a foreign language. Steve

Thanks FF Have PM'd Bill for a price. Will then have to decide which way to go....high spec or cheapo. Do like the idea of a gauge on the dash even though it does not mean a lot. I'm with you on wanting to know about the gauge kits SootySport has in stock. Steve

I believe they will also want a vehicle make and model so you will have to put your thinking cap on for that as well. I don't think 'Petal' or 'Mouse' type names would sit well with the DVLA but has to be worth a try. Imagine the response you would get from the likes of insurance companies when asked "What make is your car?" ................'Moglamaniac' Steve

I'm not sure I'm fully understanding this so bare with me. Narrow is going to try and make everything 14.7 unless MS detects large or sudden throttle position and turns off EGO. This will give me a good tune in most conditions and power when I want it but it does not allow me tune tune out to 17ish on light throttle cruise or over-run. One of the engines I am going to MS is 6.7litre, 508hp in a 1 tonne car so I'm looking to make it as economical as possible (when I want it to be). If I do use a narrow band is there a particular make, part number or source I need to look for or do I just buy something in Halfords or Kwikfit? Cheers Steve

Have you tried the tech archive? found this that starts with a pic of a grease tub so may be what you are looking for. http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=25692 Took me two minutes. Steve

Doing the MS install for the 3.9 in my Dakar. I'm going to use wideband and assume I will need to buy an LC-1 unless told otherwise. Where is the best source? Again I'm assuming Bill Shurvinton. Thanks Steve

I would have thought it fairly simple to fold up a new section or patch from sheet. There are no special pressed formings to it. Steve

I have to go pick up some parts from Dakar 4x4 near Melton Mobray hopefully some time this month. Willing to move anything that will fit in a Pug 306. Steve

As Paintman said but when you have unbolted the TC get a lever or big screwdriver and lever the TC back away from the drive plate. There is a spigot in the front of the TC that engages in the end of the crank but it can rust and jam in. If you don't free it first it will pull the TC with it when you take the engine out. It only engages about 10-15mm. It is also a good idea to mark the TC and drive plate so that they go back in the same place or you may have balance issues. I just use a spray paint. Steve

Before you condemn the battery get a battery supply place to do a load check on it. Basically this is just a controlled and metered short circuit on the battery and will prove it dead or otherwise. Steve

Popped a new plug in but water now floods out down the back of the engine but can't see from where. Suspect it is the heater pipes that run under the intake as they were looking a bit rusy last time the inlet was off. So this just brings forward the install of the MS 3.9 which is ready on the engine stand. Ho hum Steve

White comes from ignition switch and goes to coil positive and dizzy (White). White/black from dizzy goes to coil negative. Resistor fits to the coil negative. Other end is white/blue and goes to over-run relay pin 30/51. White/black from over-run Relay pin 87 goes to ECU Pin 1. Condenser goes to coil positive. The fuel pump should be fed from the fuel pump relay which lives under the drivers seat in front of the ECU. This will be switched either by the ECU or if the air flow meter is open i.e. there is air flowing. Both these feeds come via the diode pack which lives beside the fuel pump relay. So in answer to your question the fuel pump will run whilst cranking or you can test it by holding the flapper open. Steve

Can't be much that could go wrong with them which is probably why they had so many. Steve

I wanted the 9.5 TDS but it was a few mm too long. Asked David Bowyer what would be the next best thing in my size. He said no problem I will build you a shorter TDS for the same money. Works well but only tested it a few times. Steve

It has to come soon. "Where do I find the stop solenoid?" Steve

Could be a whole host of things but the most common will be to replace both the temperature sensors on the front right hand corner of the inlet manifold. I think it is normally the inner one but seeing as you pretty much have to take the outer one out in order to access the inner one you may as well replace both. Steve

I don't know of a resistor fitted there unless you are talking about the large module with the multi-pin connector (9 pin approx). If so then this is for the injectors and reduces the voltage to them as they don't take 12V. Steve

The problem may not be petrol or gas related. Does it still have the extra air valve on the front of the left cylinder head? This valve supplies extra air when the engine is cold and a heating element inside it gradually closes the valve. If the engine is very cold the ECU will not ground the supply and the valve will stay open. As the engine warms the element is powered and the valve gradually closes. As it is bolted to the head it will close as the engine warms up despite the ECU. What may be happening is:- It is Jammed. The element has burned out The coolant sensor has failed or is not connected Your changeover is disconnecting the ECU so it is no longer controlling the valve. Steve