disco_al

welding may work on it, not sure, need advice from one of the welding guru's. alternatively, refill the holes with epoxy resin or something. trouble is, i suspect that the metal will have stretched with the impact, so not sure how well it will come back out. did have a scrap disco shell here until last weekend you would have been welcome to have the panel off that. there are a few on the bay of e's ATM.

Looking at that, i would be more inclined to strip out the inner rear trim and try and push it out from the inside. The removal procedure for those panels is in Rave somewhere, not too involved IIRC, just lots of bolts and some seam sealer. If you cannot get at it from behind, then some small holes drilled in strategic places and a slide hammer will straigten it, couple of blobs of weld in the holes, skim of filler and paint it back up - job done.

Looking to sort some off road comms equipment out. What stuff do you guys use? CB is the obvious one, but what about the small handheld PMR style licence free radios that have a 300m range? are they worth looking at? cheers

the only mot's that you can access from the past now are the electronic ones, and they have only been around for a couple of years. the old written ones can only be traced by contacting the garage that did them, even then they are unlikely to have a copy by now. as for the log books, you can apply to the dvla, and they can usually supply previous keeper information, but only back a certain amount of time IIRC. the only way to track back to the original reg now would be to trace all previous keepers, quite a task given that it was imported 25 years ago now, most will have moved or passed away i would imagine.

ahh, the ones at the back of the engine bay, by the downpipes? they look ok at the moment, will clean them and paint them up in the spring when i eventually get round to plating the inner wings up.

since the old manufacturer of disco/rrc panels went west earlier this year, it would probably be beneficial for them to expand their range, maybe even approach some of the LR parts suppliers with a supply offer. will have to get underneath and check mine now - paranoia setting in......

cheers guys - one of our garage customers has got one with a fuel cut off problem, and is trying to trace it back.

anyone know where the fuel cut off switch is on a D3 with the TDV6 engine? (It's a 56 plate if it helps, no handbook present either )

strutural is a grey area on these i would think , as they have the rear seat belts passing through them.... but as said it's all down to the tester. corrosion is always a fringe subject with testers

have seen a lot done like that in the past and did wonder. i suppose it depends on the tester really, although it should be spot/seam welded as per factory fit by rights. quite a few go along the edges, and IIRC, some have been repaired using angle section.

from what i have read, yes you can use the extra pin as another output, thus doing away with the 2nd relay. as long as the relay is suitably rated (IIRC 2 x lamps draw about 17 amps) i suspect a 40 amp or bigger would be better

when we did a n/a to 200tdi conversiona few weeks ago, the flywheels were identical in appearance

hmmm, the ones i fitted are gabriel gas units (got them through work) that are usually pretty good. i had a quick check around at lunchtime, and have found a bit of play in the n/s wheel, so i will recheck and tighten the bearing back up a bit. the o/s t/r end wouldn't budge when i had a go at it last, so will probably whip it off completely to have a go at it

nice job. it's always satisfying when you achieve something like this yourself. old springs had probably gone weak with age, and hence the difference in height when it had the weight of the truck on it.

um....not yet, no but it does feel more like suspension related than steering to me, feels like the wheel is bouncing up and down. i have a later type drop arm and drag link, so may swap that over as i don't like the earlier "ball joint in drop arm" design.

well it's been a while since i last had a look at this problem, but last weekend i rebuilt the N/S swivels with new swivel bearings (TRE's already done from before), preload set,, wheel bearing set - and it still shakes about over potholes. not much left to try now, so going to get both wheels off the ground tomorrow (if it's not too cold outside) and give everything a damn good inspection.

ahhh - attack of the killer metal slugs!!!! looks ok to me for a first attempt, just lot's more practice to go

it was embarrased to be seen on a Landrover forum and felt the need to hide behind a tree :) but, seriously, hope it turns up soon, someone must have seen it around, it is quite unique.

Not sure of any direct sellers about, but i did the same, ordered a set from Paddocks last year, and then gave a local garage we deal with through work a crate of beer for changing them off the books in their lunch break. Otherwise it shouldn't cost much more than £5 per wheel to get them swapped, which is about what you would pay by the time you have bought the tyres and had them fitted at a supplier. Avoid the tyre fitting places though, they can get a bit funny about fitting tyres that you supply, garages that offer tyre fitting are a better bet.

great stuff - cheers all

no, i may have mislead slightly, , in that it is behind the headlamp panel, where the jack sits. IIRC i have seen them on RRC's as well. it looks like a large tennis ball.....

Right, in order to fit the 2nd battery to my S1 Disco, i need to remove/relocate the vaccum canister on the N/S front behind the headlamp. What is it for? and where would be best to move it to?

IIRC it should have the safe working load stamped on it too

put simply - you need one suitable for an OHV (over head valve) engine. the first one is suitable for OHC engines, and 16v lumps. IIRC i paid about £25 for one of the first ones from Sealey last year.

i've got a set of draper as2000's that are rated at 2000kg per stand, so more than meaty enough for a landrover. they have a max height of 520mm, and are plenty high enough for normal use - good value too. if you go round to your local pratco branch, they may have some TMAS2500 stands in stock. or may be able to order them in (if they can find stock - as they are in short supply) and they are 2500kg capacity, and are only £28.50 per pair at the moment. not sure on height though, no specs in the catalogue or on the offer leaflet.