disco_al

hi, & there's your answer

green and red should never be mixed, as they congeel (sp) into a thick gunge. best flush the system asap really, and top up with the OAT longlife A/F

the Rave cd's detail removing them IIRC, not really a PITA to do, but a bit time consuming. New seals are available from landrover (Bearmach do them as well) last time i checked they were about £25 each. mines had gaffa tape over the seals for nearly 12 months without a leak

this was a common problem on the transit's/mondeo's with the same(ish) engines. the O ring on the back used to leak. IIRC Ford released an updated pump for them.

easy way round that then, buy three sets of wheels the same all with MT's on them, then as they wear down, change them. they can't do a lot if you have already bought them.....and who's going to notice if they are on identical rims??

sounds like a description of materials used by a certain blue coloured brand of parts starting with a B.....

when i did the ones on my disco, i had to burn, hack and slash at them to get them out. probably the easiest way to do it, and quite theraputic too

a lot of the manufacturers are trying to get the block exemption overturned, which allows the standard trade access to diagnostics data - this is what the right to repair campaign is about. security related stuff i can see as being "refer to dealer" for a long time - otherwise whats the point of having security systems if anyone can buy the kit to disable them? merc's have always been awkward to get keys for - IIRC you need log book, ID, blood samples, signed confession from a high court judge, as well as dna evidence at the end of the day, it will be down to the relationship between the independants and their local dealers, most of the ones round here will tell us pretty much anything we need to know

had to patch the sills on mine, with the gas tanks in place. was a bit unnerving, but as long as you don't let the heat build up you should be ok. alternatively, a piece of plywood slotted between the tank and the part being welded should suffice. is that zanzibar silver? looks the same colour as mine from here, interior is the same.... btw, locks garage is the cheapest for gas ATM 46.9p/litre (depends where you live though)

i take it you got the one off eblag then? try www.yrm-metal-solutions.com IIRC they do Disco sills

if that bunch of tree hugging hippies want to ban all 4x4's from greenlanes, then can't we campaign to ban all horses from the public highway, and restrict them to using bridleways? hat coat swift exit.......

have you adjusted the preload on it? it's on the rave cd's somewhere. also have you checked the drop arm joint/track rod ends? price wise - rebuilt units can be had for about £120 exchange from memory, 2nd hand ones anything from £50 upwards. (got a used 4 bolt disco PAS box here - £40 plus postage?)

looks like quite a muddy one at this time of year. good to see the disco plough still works too

either way diesel is the devil's fuel....... hat coat exit stage left.........

Old cars are self recycling anyway - bits rust away and fall off, then return to their natural mineral state, we weld new pieces in to keep them going longer, cheaper and greener than any new vehicle.

a careful blend of rust and dirt with a spattering of oily handprints actually, special one off design - The Tate Modern offered £6.2 million for them.

found this in with a set of maps *.qct - These contain the actual graphics that are shown on screen, typically the map, but the could also be aerial photographs, map legends etc. *.qed - These contain the elevation data. once you have the elevation data for an area you can view the map in 3D and see route profiles. *.mmi - place name index file. This is a database that will help you locate places on the map.

best not to use spray really - could get messy. first thing to do is clean it with some aerosol brake cleaner, removes the protective oily film that new calipers have. when i did the ones on my old xr4x4 all i used was plain old hammerite, calipers will only get excessively hot after a lot of heavy braking (and i did do quite a lot when caning it round the lanes )

not sure on the specifics, but i have found a lot of useful stuff on www.pocketgpsworld.com plenty of POI's to grab, and if you find a program called poiedit you can convert garmin and tomtom files to work as poi's with MM. I think that the elevation data has to have the same name as the map it relates too, otherwise you could get random mountain ranges in the middle of salisbury plain?

yes there is 200tdi's are overcooled from the start anyway. had the same problem on my old one last year - best advice is to remove the viscous fan altogether, it's not really needed this time of year anyway. the other option is to use some gaffa tape across the grille (mask off the rad only though - not the cooler) blocking the cold air flow to the rad, this helped mine a bit. never got round to removing the fan, sold it and got a v8 instead, nice and toasty now

The penguins from Madagascar 2 may nick it..............

usually find that they seem to use the dartboard way of thinking...... most of the time it's down to age/postcode and the insurance grouping of the vehicle. mileage and use can make a difference, as well as your job title.....if you are in the motor trade for example, working at a factors (no similarity )and say you are telesales at a motor factors, the premium is higher, however, if you say customer services, it lowers the premium. by rights, yes you should get a reduction, as you only have one claim - not two

looking at it again - it's been stretched - rather badly from the looks of the first picture. appears to be a bit of a visible join behind the back doors, gives it a slightly bent appearance. could just be the angle of the photo though. aren't the back doors on the wrong way as well? shouldn't the smaller window be towards the back?

are my eyes deceiving me, or is that an Ambassador/Ital front end on there? could even be an early 80's Granada the close i look. Although as it's the same stable, Ambassador/Ital would be more likely

When i (eventually) get round to fitting the split charge kit on my disco, i want to put an external plug on the front of the truck for jump starting without having to open the bonnet Anderson plugs are the common ones, but which would be the best capacity to go for? I have been looking at 175 amp ones as a starting (sic) point. Obviously, waterproof connectors and covers would be needed. For self jump starting, i will be fitting one of the red handled battery cut off switches, probably inside the cab somewhere.