disco_al

return to the dealer and get them to rectify the problem as a warranty claim

army surplus. i had one years ago when i used to go dx'ing on the old cb - it extended to about 40ft when out, and was about 5ft long when collapsed. i did have a bracket made so that it slotted onto the towbar of my old car, couple of guide ropes and away you went. these guys do ally versions http://www.moonrakerukltd.com/shop_TelescopicMasts.php

if i am reading this right then, a separate line between the two batteries with an isolator switch in it - check, but, does the charge line require a separate isolator switch as well? surely once it's started, you don't want the charge voltage going straight into the second battery?

some rust killer type stuff from frost would be good (por13??), treat it with that (or jenolite) then zinc primer and some underseal that dries hard - not the tacky stuff. that's how i treated my boot floor. the underside will need doing too, otherwise it will eat it from the outside instead.

i love this bit - the men in white coats have never mentioned latent heat before

can't see that rusting out in a hurry - cracking job.

inner wings are not classed as structural for the mot, and as there are no load bearing components within the 30cm limit should not really fail the test (depends obviously on where the corrosion is)

got a n/a pas pump sat here if you want a spare one

Special effects on new Star Wars film "Disappointing" say critics

i've got these on the front of my disco http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/4X4-LAMPS-ROUND-9-WI...1742.m153.l1262 quite good i thought for the price, only downside was that the fuse holder had a 5 amp fuse in it ?

Serck list a two pass rad for the disco 200tdi with bout inlet/outlet on the intercooler side - part number 2142275

i know 200's start fine without them, but it's just for those really cold -6 deg mornings we occasionally get round here.

not bl**dy likely in my house, i would rather have my eyeballs removed with a rusty drop arm than watch that excuse for *cough* entertainment.

Is it an easy job to swap the glow plug relay sytem off a disco 200tdi into a defender? The main connection to the plugs is straightforward, but what about the rest of the wires?

You need as much as possible really - alternator, PAS pump and pipes (Disco hi pressure pipe will reach, but doesn't sit flush to the cross member. TD oil cooler pipes and adaptors (long enough to reach the rad) Service kit (oil/oil filter/fuel filter), some 8mm fuel hose and jubilee clips, assorted bolts, washers and nuts. New front and rear crank seals (adaptor plate on block needs to come off, along with the flywheel (which are the same 200tdi & n/a) and the front timing cover seal. Defender temp sender, oil pressure switch, (may as well put a new one on). Other than that, just usual consumables, WD40, gaffa tape, selection of hammers, electrical terminals etc...

It's done!!! Fired up first (ish) turn of the key, after the fuel had primed. Purrs like a kitten, no knocks, rattles or squeeks. No funny coloured smoke out the bak either - result. He is well impressed with the difference, hills that were once 2nd gear it will now cruise up in 4th and still pull. This is a well recommended conversion for the defender, Mr.Henson, hats off to you for an excellent tech archive thread, helped us out many times.

£2k plus vat!!!!! Hell, it's not even cost a grand in parts for the one i am in the middle of doing. Save yourself a fortune - read the tech archive article about the change over, and DIY. Much more fun and a good learning experience (plus it gets you away from SWMBO for a few hours at a time)

sills are an MOT point. They are quite a large chunk to replace as well, as they go into the cab under the seat. depending on how bad they are, as a quick fix then it would be easier to plate them. take the plastic piece off and see how bad they are behind there, as they tend to trap dirt and rot. pull the carpets back too, as the floor is common to go in that area as well. i had to plate mine this year for the test, should be good for at least another 1 or 2 MOT's, untill i either get round to box sectioning them, or changing the truck for a newer model

it's the voices that concern me......

the tech archive is a good place to start, read and print Les's excellent guide http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=2394 next step is to try and source a complete discovery, as thiw makes the job a lot easier. we are using a conversion kit from ebay for the exhaust and intercooler pipes, saves a lot of time and makes everything easier. other than that you will need a new clutch kit, timing belt kit (good idea to do whilst it's out), a good engine crane/tractor/telehandler, good set of sockets, spanners, varying sizes of hammer etc only "special" tools you may need would be a quite large 3 leg puller, large socket set (we used a 3/4" drive set for the crank pulley bolt) and possibly a welder quite an easy job to do really, but it's best if you can talk nicely to someone with a barn or large garage with power and lights

Very true - about 13 hours into the conversion - should be ready to fire it up by next saturday afternoon

Well, the engine slipped into place Saturday afternoon, and is now awaiting some new PAS/Oil cooler hoses. We didn't do the rad the same as Les did, we changed the idea a bit. Instead of cutting and rewelding the rad mounts, we hacked em off completely, then drilled two 10mm holes inthe cross member for the rad frame to sit in. With a couple of bits of 8mm fuel hose on the pegs (approx 10mm) it sits into the cross member - the top part of the rad frame will then sit on top as usual. Rather than weld the top brackets on, we opted to bolt them through the top of the frame. Easy way to do this is to bolt the frame together, then place into the front area, loosely bolt the defender brackets back on, and mark where the holes need to be in the top. Two bolts from underneath, a couple of nuts and then bolt the brackets back on - saved loads of time. I will take some photo's (when i remember to pick my camera up)

no problem, things progressed quicker than we thought at the weekend with the conversion

twas me!!!! managed to get one sorted at the weekend though - so no longer required

found out some more - when fuse 1 & 2 in the engine bay fuse box are pulled, the current drain disappears, now the wires from these fuses go straight to the ecu, so it does look like it's possibly u/s, unless it's draining through the ecu