teabag

STC 50530 is OAT antifreeze, so it's green OAT can we whatever colour there's no standard, just look at the spec on the can..

If it came with a cat/cats from the factory then yes it needs them for the MOT and disco are tested in class 4 just like any other "people carrier" type vehicle. Class 4... Cars, including 3 wheeled vehicles more than 450kg unladen weight, Taxis, Minibuses and Ambulances up to 12 passenger seats, Goods Vehicles not exceeding 3000kg Design Gross Weight (DGW), Motor Caravans and Dual Purpose Vehicles

Wrong & wrong again: For a 97 disco, drag link near side end is LH thread, drop arm end is RH thread, and track rod both ends are RH thread the mid track rod adjustment no. 3 has a LH thread.

Take your head unit into any local ICE shop that does repairs and if they are familiar with the make of your unit they will then fit you an aux socket without any trouble.

The experiance I've had with my fob operating range over the 14 years I've had my disco is that if either the vehicle or fob battery are low then the distance decreases. To prove the point, I only use my disco at weekends as I work in London and also have a company car so when I come to unlock the distance to unlock is around 6 to 8 feet from the the ECUs location at NSF, but after a run the distance increases and can be as much as 15 feet from the front of the disco. So this I take is because the vehicle battery had lost some charge over the five days of standing still, when the battery is finally on it's way out I found there was very little increase in the operating distance after a run which can go on for a few months before the battery gives up. When there's an ever decreasing distances on the above I know the fobs battery is due for replacement that will always be some time around 15 months. I compaired all this with my spare fob which still new and unused other than being used for my tests but there's no change. My other car is an Accord and that can be locked/unlocked from around 200 feet at any time, not that I do that there's no need to, other than re setting a false alarm from a 10th floor building

This info is for programming a single button fob, as I have a two button fob i've never had to use it so I don't know if it works. 1. Ensure ignition is OFF, doors unlocked, bonnet switch closed. 2. Ensure procedure from 3 to 9 is completed within 8 seconds. 3. Switch Ignition ON 4. Switch Ignition OFF 5. Lock Doors and Unlock Doors 6. Release Bonnet Switch 7. Switch Ignition ON 8. Switch Ignition OFF 9. If alarm is set, horn will sound and LED with light. Now programming of plips can be completed. 10. Press and hold down button on plip until LED flashes. 11. Repeat for additional plips. 12. The dash LED will extinguish if both plips have been programmed successfully

How do u think the 'rolling code' function works then?

The wrong length of antenna wire will give a mis match in the send/receive frequency of the system.So do not cut or extend the wire. It's not unknown fot an electronic device that's powered up 24/7 in your case the alarm ecu to have a problem, you need to get it tested.

For a two button fob press the 'lock' button four times and nothing for the single button fob so u may have an iffy fob battery.

Only up till 1990 then the 3.5 got EFI, untill 1993 when it became a 3.9 EFI.. You not a disco V8 owner then.

http://www.keen4parts.co.uk/heavy-duty-flasher-unit-amr4873.html

AMR4873 is the part number of the flasher unit u require for your 300 series disco.

These head units come up on e-bay now and again. So plug & play for your disco.

The D1s MFU looks after the timing function for the HRW. RRCs had a timer relay for the rear screan IIRC but I forget where now.

Not directly, unlocking with the key activates the alarm, and the engine will be still be immobilised unless you enter the emergency code via the drivers door lock. So as you you see it's a very good idea to have two fully functional fobs.

No electronics involved with the standard keys so just don't use the third key (post a pic of it). Locking also sets the alarm but the ultra-sonic movement detector within the cab is isolated. Lock with the key if and when you wish but always unlock with fob because the alarm is voltage sensoring, the operation of the central locking will activate the alarm the for unsets the alarm before the unlocking. With the broken fob, look inside sometimes the battery or button connections require resoldering back on the PCB and alway use a good quality battery.

You don't have much room do you if just unclpping & removing the pipe only doesn't help then pull and twist the pump from the bottle it's only a push fit. What does the owners handbook say on replacing the bulb? remove the foglamp.

Same as the rear, appox 7 or 8 mins which is ok to clear frost. With snow you need longer so just press the button again after the first time-out for the extra time.

I don't have a clue, it's a strange one unless u have odd keys but then why it sets the indicators flash continuously??, don't worry about the plastic part of the key as that will depend on if the key is genuine of a patten copy. Do your two keys have the same blade profile and does the key that you can now use in the door/ignition fit the filler flap?? if so that's the original, which do have hard black plastic handle with a 20mm wide round indent on either side, or it's a very good copy of the original.

Lets hope they don't start doing a "full emissions test " on diesels as they do in some other countries, no flying through the MOTs then.

If you already have the two sockets at the lower corners of the windscreen means all the wiring is there, then all you will need is fuse, switch and relay for the empty relay socket somewhere up behind the glove box, the mfu doesn't need programming as the timing function is already there. If no existing wiring then your new wiring would be similar to any other piece of electrical kit, ie. fused 12v supply, non latching switch and a relay with a timer function and obtained from such companies as http://www.vehicle-w...me/homepage.php

On a 300 series the timing is controlled by the multi function unit MFU.

A known issue that requires a BCU reset (Hawkeye or similar), at sometime the A/C fan has cut in but unlike the D1 it's not self resetting.

All very important stuff, and along with the my owners handbook with instructions on how to enter the code as I've never had to do it.

I forgot about the filler flap, but if you have a key that fits that lock then that should fit one of the door locks... if not all. I can understand the ignition switch key being different because it has been changed due to a problem with the old switch, that happens, but to replace the three door locks? are u sure it's not just lubrication required in the door locks? Again have a word with a locksmith they may need or may or not need the barrel to provide you with a key, or a Land Rover main dealer can supply you with the vehicles key key number and also a key that will fit the locks that were fitted to your vehicle when it left the factory based on the VIN..