teabag

Security of a vehicle is an important part but, "if/when the fob decides not to play anymore it will be at two o'clock on a winters morning when you have a plane/train/wife to catch" the backup plan would be a spare fob, just a key wouldn't help you would be going nowhere as the engine would remain immobilised without the presence of a functioning fob as i'm sure you know. Also doesn't the op just want the three door locks and ignition switch with the same key profile, not a door handle assembly + key, he dosen't say he's without door keys..

Find an auto locksmith near to you that will alter the profiles within the igniton switch to match your door key. If the fob unlocks the doors then why bother, i've never used a key in a door in the 14 years i've had my disco as the fob does the job.

It's can happen, just clean or replace the crank case breather (front of r/h rocker cover) and clean the tube to the plenum chamber also add some injection cleaner in the fuel. it works for me so I now do it as part of servicing so no more stalling. Of course u could have a mechanical issue but deal with the simple things first.

Insert the temp sence bulb in the bottom of the top hose and run the copper tube underneath and you won't see it. Kenlow do an option kit that was once standard and thats two L shaped fixing rods with clamps to fix the rods to vehicle and then to the fan. On a disco i would think the fan would hang from the bonnet slam panel or from the head light box either side. Installation instructions state run the engine untill normal running temp, let the temp increases a few degrees then set the Kenlow temp setting so the fan starts this will stop the fan running at normal temps.

Looked through Rave again and in the a/c section under operation it is stated: "The cooling fans are controlled by engine temperature when the air conditioning is not switched on." So indeed back to the parallel switch idea.

To true, extra engine heat will also be generated when a/c is on, just feel the heat blowing out of the front wheel arches on a hot day. On a hot days with the a/c switched and in traffic on I can hear the sound of the viscos fan change as it locks up it's the same 'turbine' sound that the fan has on starting from cold when driving for the first 300 mitres or so, it just proves how hot the radiator/engine is getting, that's for a D1 V8 though. Only the D1 a/c fans run when the a/c is switched on, the D2s single fan is automatic so is running as required much like most modern cars today

Ooooops, it apears that the fans only operate with the is engine switched off, so it's now not as simple as justadding a parallel switch. Copied from a workshop manual: "It should be noted that under high coolant temperatures, when the engine is switched off, the condenser fans will be activated and will run for approximately ten minutes."

Just parallel wire a switch into the terminals of over temp sensor that's screwed into the thermostat housing. Job Done.

They are not the same as a D2s http://www.yrm-metal-solutions.co.uk/011--os-battery-carrier-54-p.asp

Nevertheless u did a very good write up, so well done!.

Good info for a D1, but, If you read the post it's a D2 battery tray the OPs looking at, D2s have bigger batteries.

Dexron ll is well dated, it's now Dextron llD but that has now been superseded with Dexron lll but you can still use Dexron llD which is compatable. My disco left the factory in 1997 with D llD in the gearbox, but is now on D lll, why not it appears to be a better spec. and is the same price.

The beep is an indication that a door isn't shut and the rear wiper always stops if a door is open, so with your interior lights staying on also suggests you have an iffy door pin switch and is making permanent contact to earth.

Fit a s/h one with a different key is a lower cost option, also take the item to a vehicle locksmith for repair.

So u wish the OP to fail the MOT then ? Now, If the testers data on the vehicle being tested states the vehicle is fitted with SRS then he will wish to see the initial test sequence ie. SRS lamp on-off and on again. If not it's a fail. Also the same if an air bag is fitted as an original equipment is missing. Supplementary Restraint Systems (SRS) 5.4

If your disco is immobilised then the engine won't crank, If you wish to permantly disable the immobiliser function the' spider' can be fitted with a bridging link. All D1s from 96MY will have a passive immobiliser fitted therefore will immobilise itself.

No 'spiders' as u don't have passive immobilision only a disco with the green coloured ecu has that and then you need a fob positioned by the ignition switch to crank the engine. Perhaps you ecu is faulty just make sure that the replacement ecu if u get one has the same frequency as your existing fob which you will be able to reuse after u have programed it to the ecu. But as u don't have a fob get a replacement ecu plus it's fob/s.

Diesels do have cats as they also have CO and HC emissions at present they are not tested in the UK, lots of info on that on the www.

As shown in January issue of LRO and arn't they a big lump LRO do say that DPFs have also been fitted to the RR RRS for some time didn't read all of it so maybe the D4 also. I did read about Regeneration of a DPF bit so there must be info on that in the owners handbook if you have a DPF fitted.

You still have an iffy door contact that's why the interior lights don't go out, you have a double beep, normally used as an indication that a door isn't closed fully when setting the alarm, and a rear wiper will not work if a door is open, so it all points to the contact indicating a door isn't closed. "Bounce" on the locking can be fixed 'usually' by a very slight adjustment of the drivers actuator mounting plate by a few mil there's a fine line with locking/unlocking. Other than that a lock spring has broken, look for a door pin dropping back down half way, a known fault with D1 locks.

Pluged into the rear of your interior fuse box

Yes just one.. and while your at it get yourself a Haynes manual for your disco as all the info you required is in there, plus lots more it's worth the money.

Pull the three rotary controls and the blower slider knob off, remove two screws in the outer holes, remove the face plate and you will see the 12v 1.2w bulb

Good point... but the OP did say " the connectors under the bonnet for the heated screen are good"

I have just a small chip and that gives me a 4 inch vertical band not working on the drivers side, lucky a D1 has two elements.