teabag

A positive fused supply to the pump via a non-latching switch and an earth neg connection on the other side of the pump is how I did it in the good old days

Oooooo looks quite meaty then as I deal with electronic stuff I would pull it apart to find an audio input and a speaker output just to see if it would work as a mono sub amplifier. I know it would cheaper perhaps just to get a passive sub amp and speaker in a box and fit it.

Well done 4inch speakers don't produce much bass bass, do you have a bass treble adjustment on the head unit if so turn one up the other down. Ps what does the amp look like?

I am going for tyres also, for winter you either need 'all weather' or so called winter tyres both have a special rubber compound have look at your tyre side walls for m+s and a snow flake symbol, my standard fittment Goodyears have them.

Have you looked at the drivers side, it's only info I have picked from the forums over the years it not that big just a small black box with a feed in and loudspeakers wires out,

Much the same as my disco then engine oil cooler is part of the radiator and the auto box cooler is the finned unit (brush) positioned behind the grill in front of the rad, it's also the same with a 300tdi disco. But that doesn't answer the question "The UK 3.9s have oil coolers so why wouldn't the 4.6?"

Thats just what it is insulation in sound and heat so without it I would think the bonnet would be very hot as with the insulation fitted the bonnet gets hot but not that hot you still put your hand on top of it so that may be called wsrm .

The UK 3.9s have oil coolers so why wouldn't the 4.6..

For all those things to happen you must have had water reach the fuse box and the multi function unit on the rear of it but then the footwell would have been damp. Something to look at.

You should also have under bonnet sound insulation which would absorb some heat.

Japanese spec D1s have an amplifer (behind the passenger kick panel I believe) to drive the loudspeakers, so remove the the loudspeaker wiring from the amp and extend them up to your head unit the colour codes are standard as shown in the Haynes Manual or you can "buzz out" the wiring to prove which is which.

Sounds like rear radius arm bush to me too, so giving a bit of rear wheel steering. look the big bush at the end if there is a space between the metal and the rubber it's only a few mm then its due for replacing.

The indicator not flashing is a sign of low battery power as stated in the owners handbook.

I've search this previous thread that may help. http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=47309

I didn't know that one, so that's a another location for a water leak to add to my list.

"The indicators don't flash but the car stays locked and armed" That happens if the fob battery requires replacing, as stated in the owners handbook. Do you still have to re-mobilise the engine by placing the fob near the ignition switch?

I've never see a diagram for alarm connections but connections to the sounder can only be permanant pos-neg to power the sounder and a switched pair, can't see that you need anything else.

You may be lucky as most electronic kit is reverse polarity protected.

Or hand brake not releacing fully?.

What does a steering damper do? A steering damper is a damping device designed to inhibit an undesirable, uncontrolled movement or oscillation of a vehicle steering mechanism. To check if it's worn remove it and extend and contract the piston to check if there any free play in the travel of the piston if there is then it's faulty.

If you were happy with the old existing Alpine head unit u may find a direct replacement on Ebay or similar. Not all head units what ever make have the facility to interface with the steering remote controls those that do will reqiird a patch lead. U may also have to do a work-around to retain the existing amp.

If it's just patches then inject wallpaper overlap paste and spread it, it dries without leaving a stain.

Hi and WELCOME my first thought is that a lead/s are incorrectly fitted to the wrong plug/s.

It must have been massive, as the ultrasonic sensors are not that sensitve, anyway that sort of thing can set the alarm off.

All the passenger doors have just a dumb slave actuator with no micro-switches. If the CL locks/unlocks ok via the fob I would have the doorcard off first and have look at the master actuator, a slight adjustment can be made with the mounting screws, perhaps sometimes the actuators operating rod is not traveling to it's full extent therefore return to the locked position. You can spray some lub over the lock mech at the same time.