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teabag

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Everything posted by teabag

  1. Also on a Tdi a gearbox mount has to be removed to enable access to a sump bolt so it will require a support while the job is being carried out. V8s require the Y pipe and cross member removed.
  2. Leaking sunroof I believe, the sunroof has two seals, one or both can fail, the body to sunroof cartridge seal will require the headlining dropping below the sunroof to enable the cartridge to be removed and then resealed. The rubber glass seal is easy to replace.
  3. Chassis and box sections can rust. Also check for accident repairs Front hub sensors. Each wheel’s rotation is electronically monitored by a sensor, which can fail regularly on earlier vehicles Leaking sunroof. Debris block drain holes, then water comes in Wet rear load space. Water gets in above the rear door Air suspension. Is it sitting level? Does the air compressor come on at start-up? Could be a leak at the bottom of the suspension air bag Smoke. Look for blue oil smoke, black diesel smoke (overfueling), heavy black diesel smoke (failing turbocharger) or white smoke on starting (water in the bores) Steering bushes wear rapidly Coolant leaks. Td5 water pumps can leak, causing coolant level to drop, then overheating occurs ACE (Active Cornering Enhancement) pipes are showing corrosion on early models. Can be seen behind the off-side front wheel Interior and exterior. Most should still be smart. Tatty or battered examples should be very cheap – but better to find another than repair/repaint. If interior looks worn is the mileage higher than indicated?
  4. May be, but will depend what V8 and what part of it.
  5. Next time it happends just slide a credit over the top of the cartridge, it trips a micro switch and the cartridge pops out.
  6. Try adjusting the actuator on it's mountings, there's a fine line either it locks or unlocks or 'bounces' so slacken and move the actuator one way or the other, there's only a few milimetre each way but thats enough.
  7. They are not a replacement part ie have no part no. and if yours are ok the can be fixed back into postion with a sealent such as Silkaflex NOT bathroom sealent that will peel off. You can see them if you remove the headling trim around the sunroof but I would think you would have to drop the headlining in part to get proper access and do a proper job
  8. Thats a high one at 800mm my 3 ton is ok for a standard disco that's just over 500mm and that will lift an end or side easly, but all good jacks have a safety overload bypass system so if your disco is to heavy it won't lift it
  9. Loose battery, dirty/broken connection or dry joint on the fobs pcb. Tip? how good are you at soldering pcbs
  10. You may have air in the system that's not normally a problem with the later V8s. So drain the cooling system and refill very slowly via the cap on top of the rad, when fill replace the cap 1/2 fill expansion tank turn the heater controls to hotand start and when it gets hot it wiil take coolent from the tank if required. Replace the cap and let cool, topup again to half way if required.
  11. Cliptone is another one by the bottle or in a kit form there's a few kits on eBay have a look.
  12. Main LR dealers sell 110Ah with the 800cca to fit the D2.
  13. Are u sure the rad/engine has sufficiant coolent and no air locks.
  14. Well Land Rover said that every D2 panel was different to that of the D1 when the D2 was introduced, so I would say no.
  15. If you have seen Simmonites vehicles you would know their vehicles are unblemished. Something found under a dust sheet I don't think so not with a Kenlow and K&N fitted but will be or was unreg'd as it's an import into the UK
  16. Easy if you already have the wiring loom ie. the two sockets either side of the screen by the bonnet hinges. The multifunction unit takes care of the timer all you need then is two relays, one for each side of the screen, and a illumimated switch that fits in the switch bank under the clock and a fuse in the fuse box.
  17. This is a drawing of a 300s a/c it may help you.
  18. I have always used genuine parts pads they last longer, I once replaced my RRC front bads after 45,000 miles with Mintex (needed pads in a hurry) they only lasted 8,000 miles and less then a year so never again but then £9 for mintex £34 for genuine. But this time last I replaced my discos front pads with EBC Ultimax just to see and at half the price of genuine parts, they do grab and are hardly worn after a year so good signs on whats to come ..I hope. So try EBC Ultimax
  19. The reverse light switch is incorporated within the auto selector housing at the top of the gearbox, therefore i would expect the cables somewhere under the centre console
  20. Worn hinges can give problems but maybe all that is required is a slight adjustment to the lock striker plates.
  21. This is what the underside of a sunroof looks like for those of us that were unsure
  22. There is a seal between the sunroof and the vehicles body that can fail but that will require the removal of the sunroof to reseal, removal will distroy the thin seal anyway. The only leak I have had was when water was coming through a welded seam on the inside of the (A) post. I had to remove the front passengers kick panel to see it with a bright torch and I could see a drip, only one a minute but that's all that's required, it was just where a bracket is bolted to hold the lower dash support rail (4 bolts to remove) so there may have been some stress on the metal at that point, anyway a dab of body sealent over the seam fix the leak but it took nearly a week to fully dry the soundproofing underlay.
  23. Yes of course the sunroof shouldn't leak. LR issued a fix sheet to change the glass seal to a redesigned one on the early D1s but only if customers complained about water ingress. If your sunroof is leaking and the the vehicle is facing up hill drains at the front won't work very well
  24. Yes it is a combined unit you get to it from underneath the vehicle according to my Haynes/ LR workshop manual. Reverse light switch is an integral part of start inhibitor switch. It is located on left hand side of gearbox, accessible from beneath vehicle. 1. Place vehicle on suitable ramp [hoist]. 2. Disconnect battery negative lead. 3. Disconnect multi-plug. 4. Release clamp bolt, remove clamp. 5. Remove switch.
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