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teabag

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Everything posted by teabag

  1. You still have an iffy door contact that's why the interior lights don't go out, you have a double beep, normally used as an indication that a door isn't closed fully when setting the alarm, and a rear wiper will not work if a door is open, so it all points to the contact indicating a door isn't closed. "Bounce" on the locking can be fixed 'usually' by a very slight adjustment of the drivers actuator mounting plate by a few mil there's a fine line with locking/unlocking. Other than that a lock spring has broken, look for a door pin dropping back down half way, a known fault with D1 locks.
  2. Pluged into the rear of your interior fuse box
  3. Yes just one.. and while your at it get yourself a Haynes manual for your disco as all the info you required is in there, plus lots more it's worth the money.
  4. Pull the three rotary controls and the blower slider knob off, remove two screws in the outer holes, remove the face plate and you will see the 12v 1.2w bulb
  5. Good point... but the OP did say " the connectors under the bonnet for the heated screen are good"
  6. I have just a small chip and that gives me a 4 inch vertical band not working on the drivers side, lucky a D1 has two elements.
  7. If the supplies at the screen is ok, then u have a faulty element/s in the screen.
  8. Don't forget to look at the speed rating of these tyres above. D1 V8 discos were supplied with H 130mph rated tyres as standard, so speed rating is something to bear in mind if you are going to do a lot of high speed motorway runs, which V8 discos can easly do.
  9. I've had the "clunk" for 24 years from the Tbox when going into reverse they all do that sir.
  10. As the viscous coupling operates on temperature and not on RPM how do you compare the performance of that with the RPM of an electric fan, your data on engine revs vis engine temperature and how you obtained it also the specification on your "electric fans" it would also be interesting to the forum..
  11. As this still a disco thread all D1s 3.9s when they left the factory had an engine oil cooler and like the coolent the oil is 'air cooled'. There's no oil temperture light circuit what ever in a disco, although the autobox atf has an over-temp warning lamp indicator in the dash. Also to stop an electric fan running constantly the temp switch should be at least 5 to 8 deg higher then the normal engine running temperture so is that a good idea to let an alloy 3.5 or 3.9 run at a higher temp then normal? you can make up your own minds. Neadless to say i wouldn't go near an electric fan on an alloy engine not designed to use one. And the Kenlow installation guide states fit the temp sensor in the top hose, i know that as I have a Kenlow fitted on another car I own as it gives me 5 extra BHP which is handy.
  12. And the best of luck getting to the rear ones/s it's an engine out job.
  13. When my manifold to down pipe gasket leaked it sounded like a machine gun when underload, going up hills etc. I couldn't see a leak but the garage could, and that was the drivers side, so 6 months later when they replaced the auto fluid and had to drop the Y pipe they also had replace the gaskets. Job done
  14. N/S draglink ball joint is a LH thread and the ball joint which is a part of your drop arm is a RH thread, on later steering boxes the ball joint is seperate from the drop arm but still is a RH thread.
  15. You don't need drain tubes if the two seals are working. The tubes are only at the front to take any water run-off from the glass if the sunfroof is opened when wet, as the glass is tilted before opening water runs forward and is directed into the side channels by the plastic finisher at the front of the class that's why it's there. The tracks do indeed have white nylon sliders/guides which do wear, they are replaceable but you will have to dismantal the track completely to replace them although you can't buy the parts, so easier get a second hand track. Make sure the motor is in synic with the track mech ie. the drive cog dots are aligned and and the glass is closed also the front sliding locking pins slide ok they also have a black nylon bush and are equal in their travel and so pull down the glass onto the seal.
  16. You should not need to do anything if you are traveling "green lanes", any Land Rover is capablle of doing with any modsification....and if you are going to places that you may require recovery then you shouldn't be there or you should improve your driving skills. My old RRC and now my disco drive the lanes without any mods and had/have still the high speed road tyres fitted. If you are going "off roading" as mentioned in the post above then of course you will have to modify your vehicle to tackle the terrain you intend to encounter.
  17. You should look in your owners handbook, as it states indicators not flashing as you discribe is the indication the system gives that the fob battery will require replaceing soon,
  18. D2 then it's a faulty unlocking actuator it's a common problem which will require a replacement lock.
  19. Any grip adheasive and petrol or thinners.
  20. 3 watt capless bulbs push the display surround froward and lift from the rear and unclip then slide up the selector you will then get to the bulb on each side, a 1/4 turn of the bulb holder and they release from the housing, replace the bulb and refit, it's a bit fiddly as there's not much wire to the bulb holder.
  21. The wire, there's only one, from the switches are commbined, they run from the each door switch via the wiring loom and terminate at the MFU. IIRC the colour is blue but you can check that by removing the switch.
  22. It appears according info on the www that using a heat gun (a hair drier won't do) on plastic bumpers that have turned to grey will return them back to black as if by magic.
  23. Tried them all from shoe polish to back to black and all the stuff in between. Still haven't found anything that's 100% I might give the Auto Glym stuff a try as sold on eBay at £5.50. But the there's the more expensive Wurth stuff as shown below looks like it works if u can believe it.
  24. The headlamps are vented via the bulb holders rubber cap just check that it's facing downwards and is not blocked.
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