teabag

Some standard high end systems do have an amplifier with the head unit just being the pre-amplifer a D 2 has it under the front passenger seat I believe. There's nothing too stop the fitting of a aftermarket head unit although the installation won't be just plug and play.

So what difference do you think it makes? I've done it in both N and P many times in the 27 years of LR autos and haven't see any difference in fluid levels. It must be a safety thing, and when giving info to help others it should be correct, not "pretty sure" or "I believe" therefore better to quote a fact and therefore what Land Rover states on the subject.

Check the fluid level when it's cold it's the correct way. Move the selector to position 1 and then back to P while the engine is running at idle speed, then go and pull the dipstick to check the fluid level. More info can be found in the owners handbook.

Depends if you have a two button fob, if so the system is 'passive' therefore alarm/immobilising is automatic, with a single button 'manual' system the key in the lock sets the alarm/immobiliser via a micro switch at the rear of the lock.

Only if the aftermarket head unit, in your case Pioneer, has the facility to receive the signal from the D2 steering wheel control, if so there are patch leads available to interface the two.

Depends if u have a spider, enter your emergency access code to override the immobiliser to get u going.

Single button fobs are user programable, two button are programmed via LRs Testbook or similar.

Your looking at a 1996MY diagram, it appears u don't understand the meaning of 'model years' or the difference between the early 1995MY disco and the 1996MY disco both are of the so called 300 series, and both were on the road in June 95 but their security systems are very different ie. single button fob or two button fob is the first indication.

I've yet to understand if its the loom colours that don't match the diagram or the actuator but then it is a 1996MY drawing it's understandable if it doesn't, perhaps it's not a original actuator and maybe it's a RRCs actuator, even so then function is just the same so the wire colours isn't a big issue.

Remember that the fan should only switch on when the engines temp is hotter the its normal running temp, maybe not a good idea with a V8, otherwise the fan will be then always running and possibly over cooling the engine.

Perhaps stop looking a a1996MY discos wiring diagram, as you have an early 95MY disco with a different security system but with both the master actuator operates the slaves, also it's the Japanese spec disco that doesn't have an alarm.

Okay, the motor has two wires so a 12v supply in one direction the motor turns in one direction reverse the polarity ( done by a switch or if u have a fob the ECU and it turns in the opersite direction therefore locking or unlocking. Also with the two wires that feed the slaves and do the same thing. So, When you find the the pair that feed the actuators motor then apply a quick 12v to the motor and the actuator will pulse, reversing wires will also pulse the actuator.

Well, one terminal has a black wire to thats an earth the other four you will find by using your multimeter, the supply to the servo motor and the pair of wires that go to the slaves via the controlling switch with in the master actuator, central locking is very simples in its function.

Check you have power with your meter at the terminals also.

Common issue which sounds like an adjustment is required, slacken the four actuator plate fixing screws slightly, an move the plate just a fraction one way or the other while using you fob to lock/ unlock until both functions are achieved. The switching is done by a micro switch at the rear of the lock if your using a key, uunlike the 300 series. As for super locking LOL

When it left the factory, it was on the drivers side footwell, a yellow relay in the centre of the lower three on the relay bracket.

Spin the wheels on Tarmac? Iffy tyres then, I've never had wheel spin even on a wet road and I don't hang about. But as far as a performance increase goes, every Forum I've seen has owners giving good reports after Dynachip has paid them a visit.

Look it up for yourself. http://www.allbrit.de/NAV.cfm?SPRACHE=EN&PAGE=491338

I thought what I said would be clear enough, its only normal due to wear as the dust collected? It didn't leave the factory with this sensor making a noise. Even though I don't have a D2 I know that there's a few threads on the subject.

Climate control A/C ? If so you may have a fault with the fan usually caused by dust, a clean will reduce the noise. They are not temperature specific with the buzzing.

Don't believe all that u read in landyzone

Unlike the heated rear screen the element in the front screen is embedded within the glass therefore not repairable.

What oil does "everyone" use ? All the info on grades and spec is in the disco owners handbook and it's all multi grade, it's up to you to choose.

You will require a head unit with a bass preamplified output, as the red & black wire is the mono audio feed to the back door amp. Also you will require a permanent 12v feed plus a 12v switching feed for the amp, all the wiring is there all u need to do is prove the two existing wires from the amps connector to one of the ISO blocks in the dash. Earth connection is already at the amp. The switching supply is via a blue wire on the head unit usually use for switching amps or controling electric aerials, amps 12v supply is the same as the head units and can be found in one of the ISO blocks. One ISO connector connections for just the speakers the other for the services such as power, lighting etc. I have the colour codes of the wires from when I did mine somewhere but it's simple to meter the wires.

So what is "play around with the fob" ? Poss u have an iffy IGN switch.