landrover598

I'm sure we can chop a good few inches off

Getting there B) Is it possible to move the rear bumper forward ? or make a much shorter one ?

I made my drop plate to give 17.5" to the top of the ball, and my loaded flatbed trailer sits perfectly on it.

Cheers guys, great help

I'd need a lot of road signs to do front bulkhead footwells tunnel floors Rear bulkhead roof front wings wing tops door pannels rear wings tray back top I think i'll use 20 gauge galv steel for the bulkead/footwells and roof for strength and protection, but still got the rest to do. Is ally sheet going to be too soft ? anyone know the price of a few sheets ?

In the near future i'll be putting some pannels in between sections of roll cage tube to create 'bodywork' on my landy. What choices of materials do i have ? Birmabright Light gauge galv steel Fiberglass 5 bar treadplate What else can i use? some sort of poly

Bending the front hoop is a right pain, it took a lot of head scratching, but even i managed it

1/2 and 1/2 Good protection, and doesn't look like a climbing frame. That's how i'm doing mine.

Snowball gave me the best price this year, with 3 pages of mods declared

I was looking at the M20 eye bolts we have in work a couple of weeks ago, with the intention of fitting them to my new landy, but noticed they only have a WLL of 1.3 ton I ended up bending a bit of 20mm round into a U, and welding them down the inside of the chassis legs.

One occasion of indepandant winch use, thanks to Chris' cunning placement of a punch You tube link

I've oftern seen instances when both the front and rear winch need to be pulling in at the same time. so a centre winch wouldn't be any good in those cases. Just a thought .

Why paint it, my landy has been grey primer for over two years Allthough by the end of this year, it may be white

There's plenty of leg room for me (6ft ish) with a smaller steering wheel. It would be a bit tight with a standard wheel.

I didn't, mine's a stock 100" chassis with different outriggers and x member, Fruity was cut in half.

It's luck of the draw i think, Fruity's and my 100" hybrid needed SVA, and yet Corrode Finger's didn't. Never mind if it does, it's not a great trouble, and at least you know you've built a safe vehicle.

No pictures of my bit of wading on the commute to work this morning, i was too busy trying to shut the bulkhead flaps which i had left open as the water came pouring in

Yes, i've got rangy seats in my 100", very comfy and have got arm rest's as well, in the near future i'll be changing them to heated leather ones B) As for getting to the battery, i can't as they seats are bolted to the box. I've wired in a quick connect jump lead, and fitted shut off switches very close the the battery. The battery can be totaly isolated from underneath by undoing the earth bolt on the chassis.

88" series 3 100" defender 100" defender Mk2 Still got plenty of time though

Nope, it's pouring down with rain

I ended up getting them from Corus at £23 a length, Time to start bending

Agreed B) And as VOSA made no note of what mods i'd done to my hybrid at SVA, i can change things in the future if i want

Spend a couple of £ on a proper tool, and putting them back in is a piece of cake, Use a bit of window cleaner or washing up liquid as lube.

Has anyone had a price on this tube recently ? I've been quoted over £50 a length (with a good discount) . Thats going to make building a complete landy body from tube quite pricey

Is there an easy way to see how far out the castor angle is on a landy front axle? Should the spring cup be level? As i'm making new front links, i can get it set as close to correct as possible. Tar muchly in advance.