It's called production engineering. Getting rid of unnesesary, complex and expensive parts to save time and money in manufacture and assembly, a great idea
Is there a gap between the crossmember and the tub all the way across, or just in the middle section where the door / tailgate is, not at the rear light pannels ?
Having had my flatbed stolen a couple of weeks ago Id recomend more than a hitch lock, wheel lock, jockey wheel lock and keeping it 1/2 mile away from the public on private land in a very soft muddy corner of the yard.
Haven't you drilled out all the holes in the chassis yet to aid bolting parts on then ?
I drilled and riveted dozens of cable tie mounts onto my chassis for the wiring and push fit fittings for the brake pipes.
Looks very smart Paul, one sugestion i would make, is that don't rely on the gas strut to be the stop for how far it can swing open, as a bit of steel / teather wire. I've got a gas strut on my defender rear door, and if your not carefull, the momentum of the weight of the door opening (especially when parked on a side slope) can and has snapped the end clean off the strut .
What about the cave rescue 110 That had plenty of stickers yet it still went walkies.
Your right though, anything to make a vehicle and it's parts more identifiable may help. though it's usually a lot cause
Mine have been unwelded since fitting, there's plenty of strength in the outrigger as it is so i didn't see the need, if anything, it helps let muck out when i wash the inside of the outrigger out.
Or an another way, which is how i do rust repairs, Cut the repair patch first, for a small rusty hole, say 3" x 3" square, then scribe around it onto the chassis and cut the chassis, if you follow the line then the patch will fit perfectly, fit flush held with two welders magnets, tack the 4 corners and then seam weld all around. simples
aahh, now the penny has dropped , i thought the hazards ran off the same fuse as the indicators, i'll check that fuse once it stops peeing down with rain
if the hazards came off the same supply as the indicators which is a ignition controlled circuit, they wouldn't work when the ign was off.
I've just fitted a new lucas switch and it's not fixed the problem, infact, it's made it worse, when i turn the switch on, i don't even get the relay switching noise now, just nothing at all.
Indicators still work fine
Any suggestions
Not to mention the possiblity of a nasty accident if it locks up solid at 70 on the m-way
Get it looked at ASAP, if it does need changing, have a look at the other side and other axle as they may be not far behind needing replacing.
My hazards decided not to work tonight when i went to use them, there was a short buzzing (rappid realy switching) from the relay box for a second or two and no flashing lights. The indicators work fine. The hazard switch was a new genuine lucas switch a few years ago, and i've just pulled it apart and the contacts are like new.
Is there a seperate relay for the hazards, and any other areas of the circuit i should look at to fix the problems?
1984 110 elctrics btw