mickeyw

Only a gas filled steering damper will extend itself when left. Oil filled (standard spec) will not. Seems an odd thing really to have a damper that wants to bias you in one direction

What about the stuff you pour on leaking flat roofs? It self levels and remains flexible. No doubt it is also messy and possibly not over paintable. Just thinking out loud.

You don't mention what engine you currently have. You shouldn't have to start modding a Defender bulkhead for a V8. It's easy to mod to an R380 tunnel if you decide to go for that, or an auto. Genuine kits for tunnel conversions are available from Keith Gott. For carbs it is dead easy, fuel supply and return, use the engine's own loom and join it to the vehicle loom as necessary. If you are already a petrol powered most of the electrical circuits will be ready and waiting. Before anyone else says this: why 3.9 on carbs? EFI is pretty straight forward (if you have all the bits and they work), and will give better MPG and BHP!

That said, a part should be fit for the purpose it's sold for, so there is no excuse for parts that don't fit/don't work to begin with

My megajolt doesn't use TPS, just MAP. Guessing spark only MS would be the same.

Nigel, this thread mentions cruise only being offered on a Disco from '94 ish onward (300 series shapes I think). So I would therefore guess there won't be any off the shelf 200tdi cruise control parts to use. I can't find any mention of it on a Range Rover 200tdi either. I know very little about the Tdi engines, but as there seems to be plenty of mention of 300 Tdi with cruise, maybe you could add the throttle actuator to your 200. I've no idea if the engines are the same in that particular area, throtlle control wise

Nice project, I'll be watching with interest. Nice machining from Vulcan Vomber too

I have been through this exact same experience many years ago. Not only did the hinge have more slop that the worn out one, the casting was so inaccurate that the hinge could not rotate through enough of an angle for the door to fully open! Once I bought some BP bearings. they came complete with swarf in the wrapper, and not a hint of oil or rust protection. TBH Timken wheel bearings are far from expensive, so I buy them every time now. Once upon a time (20 odd years ago) BP did seem to have a better reputation. I think they had a process called Quality Control back then. Sadly today's cost cutting seems to have done away with this brilliant invention.

were those meant to be links Ralph?

WOW

Hmmmm, glad you're still in one piece Jeff. Nasty business indeed.

Looking good Nige. Thinking... seeing as you've tacked it with a MIG, why not finish with it. You have some fair sized gaps to fill there, and MIG feeds the wire nice'n'easy vs several TIG rods that you can skewer yourself on Or maybe this is a matter of wanting stainless weld

As entertaining as always Jeff

Grrr, double post.

Yes J2J it can score the hell out of the shank. I have a Hitachi cordless that does just this, chuck is plastic outer but steel inner. No matter how hard I tighten it the drills still slip with moderate effort. My previous Atlas Copco drill had the excellent steel bodied Rohm chuck. I can't ever recall that slipping.

I see no info about the grade of bolt. They might be made of cheese, or they might be half decent, I'd ask the seller to start with. For LR use I would want high tensile, 8.8 grade at least

All you need to loose things is a small child. I can't find anything in the house these days except clothes pegs, and they're normally in my shoes! She has yet to infiltrate my garage (I think) but I can't find things out there either. I am with Simonr on drill storage. Holes through a shelf for big TS drills and reamers, holes drilled into a block of wood for smaller stuff, countersinks and centre drills etc. I have a set of Dormer drills in a nice metal tiered case, 0.5-13mm in 0.5 steps. Micro drills (sub 0.5mm) are in small boxes in my tool chest

Ooooh, check you Ross One of our youngest members using old tech, quite unusual nowadays, but I daresay that'll be the scouty part of you showing through

Couldn't you use something like this? You could just use it as intended to position the socket beside the ball, or modify it to use bolted to the side stays.

Barry, my fittings came from RS.

I have a receiver hitch on my 1986 Ninety, a very useful arrangement as you say. This style of hitch seems very popular across the pond, but less so in the UK. I've never seen one on a Freelander, but I would imagine demand is not that high compared to say a Defender, and therefore most towbar companies would not want to go through the approval process for small volumes. Making one shouldn't be too tricky if you have reasonable fabrication skills. However I believe there are legal implications regarding home-made towbars being fitted to vehicles registered after a certain date. I'm sure a grown-up will be along shortly with the exact date for us.

Gordon, my setup just uses 10mm OD Nylon pipe in stainless push-in fittings, right from the compressor body to the rest of the system. Not had any problem with hoses blowing off or going soft. I run to 100-110 PSI.

I believe they are a good idea, as it helps reduce condensation build up. However I don't have one in my system, and haven't suffered unduly because of it. I do try and make sure I drain the tank from time to time, but really I guess it depends how much use it gets, i.e. duration of running. In thery you ought to have a water separator too, if you had that you could at least remove the condensation that does occur as a result of having no cooler I can't imagine ARB use uses THAT much air, unlike say tyre inflation. One writeup I read before I built my system, the chap had used a coil of copper located under the wing behind the headlight.

Marc, I'm in Horley if you would like a) to try an Irwin bolt extractor or, b) something welded to the bolt.