steve200TDi

I like those spiral spanner racks. A bit different to the usual saw tooth rack. I would show you a picture of my socket draw, but i can't find it! Steve

So only one photo today, but all the roof infill panels have been cut and I've glued and riveted this one in position! I've also finally painted the new tubes too!

Tabs done, so ready to make some panels to rivet to the roof. Steve

I like the pyramids! And the wheel is shiiineeey! 😍 Steve

Yes, I have the Discovery set up at the moment and yes it is pain free when changing ball joints. I've been looking at different ways to quicker up the steering and thought I would give this longer defender drop arm a go. Yes, this is 20mm longer than standard so should reduce my lock to lock by half a turn at least. Annoyingly they don't seem to make discovery style drop arms in the longer length, so I thought I would give this a go as it's a relatively cheap option. Steve

It must be the angle! But yes, it will be getting replaced! Steve

So it was time to make the new tubes fit. I started by using a hole saw to get somewhere close. This was done by eye and a bit of guess work earing on the side of caution not to cut them to short. Using all of that I got somewhere very close which only needed a bit of filing on one tube and a slither being cut off on the other, so I was very happy with that! The trusty pillar drill Some notching The new notched tubes against the old. Then it was time to do final fitting to make them as close as possible. I then got the welder out and did some practice on the tube off cuts to get the right settings and make sure I was happy with it. I cleaned up the tube ends with sand paper, cleaned them with solvent and tacked them into place. Then welded them in! They are fairly symmetrical, so I was happy with that. I now need to add some tabs for the roof skin, then I can paint it and patch the roof up and add a new roof scoop. Then I can move on the next job which is steering system overhaul. I bought on! So we'll see how it fairs once I finally get it all done! Steve

I opted for a Bearmach unit and I added an extra coat of paint to it as well. I can't remember how many years I had it after that before I sold it, but I didn't need to do anything to it and it didn't leak! Steve

Ta Da! https://www.paddockspares.com/red-stop-tail-lamp-led.html Steve 😃

Hi, I had the same exact issue! This seal runs on the cv joint just under the 'cup end. You will have to measure the seal land as FTC840 has a larger inner diameter compared to FTC3145. The difference is about 2mm! Around the '91 to '94 Land Rover did quite a few changes and I found this out the hard way by ordering parts that didn't fit. even the stub axle was superceded! Hope this helps, let me know if you need more info as I have done this exact job recently! Steve

Ooow nice! Things to note: Titanium caliper brackets! The front winch holds 85m of rope! Steve

Mo, I used a tube of sealant for my rear window. I think it was something like this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/290816400419 Steve (I searched for windscreen tube sealant)

Excellent, thanks for checking! I will bare this in mind for the future! Steve

Now I haven't read all this post....but I've found this article from a reliable source (Automotive testing magazine!) https://www.automotivetestingtechnologyinternational.com/news/rd/land-rover-defender-reaches-1-2-million-kilometer-test-milestone.html?utm_source=mailing&utm_medium=email And No! there's no final design photos...these cars are mules in disguise! Steve

Right, so I got the tubes cut out and sent off for new ones to be made. In the mean time I started to grind off the welds and make it smooth again ready for the new tubes. Old bent tubes New bent tubes without the third bend! Still more making good needed, but I have the new tubes ready now which also need to be trimmed! Steve

Thanks I might have to become a member......so I can find the workshop manual! Steve

Right, I haven't seen a how too on here (prepared to be told wrong!) and so I thought I would do one. I have searched the web and found nearly all the info I need. It has the larger brake calipers on the front beings its the 4.4 diesel V8. I've found conflicting information regarding caliper mounting bolt torque settings. The rears I believe are 65Nm, the front smaller sliding caliper is 110Nm and the larger front caliper is supposedly 275Nm. I just thought this was a bit high! Any further info on this would be great. I am yet to try and download the RAVE stuff. Steve

What model are the TD5 engine as there are two: 10p and 15p. Yes, you would need to sort the injectors out. What's wrong with the existing engine? Steve

I made a custom centre dash out of fibreglass here: You could have a go at the same style.... It's still in my 90 and I still love it! Steve

You say the pump is below the tank. I'm guessing the feed to the pump is at the bottom of the tank too as the pump would still need to siphon it out of the tank if the connections were on top of the tank! Steve

The lazy tongs style riveters work well, less effort too! This type: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-HEAVY-DUTY-LAZY-TONGUE-TONG-HAND-RIVITER-RIVET-GUN-POP-RIVETER-5-NOZZLES/380865447239?epid=2289615738&hash=item58ad598547:g:MjIAAOSwuRRcpbpX Steve

Oh yes, I was going more on the position rather than the tool type, but yes, you would need a proper boring bar for boring! Steve

I think also that that way is more for boring internal diameters, but if it works, then great! I must have a go on my lathe as I've built, but haven't done any turning let along seeing if its flat/true........haha, so many jobs and projects on the go! Steve

Excellent, good to see plenty of clearance. And now know to have the pivot arm hanging down from the wiper arm! Can you judge or see if the vent arm mechanism would clash with the set up you now have? Steve

It's that time of the year again! http://www.4x4sparesday.co.uk/events/newbury-4x4-vintage-spares-day I plan on going as I need a few bits, hope to see some of you there! Steve