errol209

The relevant book of the workshop manual is here, section 70 near the end.

If Mr Barton's comprehensive list doesn't help, and you are still using sealed beam units, it will depend on how attached to the series "period feel" you are. You could swap to halogen headlamp units (with seperate H4 bulbs), which are a tiny bit better. Then add high output 55/60W bulbs (+80% are available) which are a major improvement. The last upgrade (and it will only be a little one from here) is to go to Crystal headlamp bowls, which might look odd on a series, as they are clear fronted.

I know, Mo Just nothing funny about the blisters. Anyway, you forgot the day-glo jacket ...

Riggers are such a poor fit, give no ankle support and don't come with suitable steel midsoles etc. so they're banned on the (Network Rail) railway. I don't understand how anyone could rate them!

Yes, you just turn them on and off quickly!

Have a look through the parts book, parts 3 and 7. I imagine the heater hose outlets on the Disco version will suit the 90 hoses.

You be not from round 'ere, be ee? Welcome to the good ship LR4x4.com, the emergency exit is top right ... My personal view (and many adults will be along with other views I'm sure) is that decent poly. are OK. There, I said it. Most "full vehicle" kits come with everything, except nuts and bolts (half of which you will ruin getting the old bushes off / out anyway).

No apologies required at all Mr H, hope life takes some better turns for you.

Not by any relevant amount, no. It will read slightly slower, but you'll be hard pressed to tell.

3mm seems to be a common choice, though if you're Hybrid from Hell then there is no plate thinner that 8mm

^^^^ Wot Gromit sed. The regulator / rectifier electronics are knacked. Gromit's Illustrated How To is here

Just click the little chain icon (to the right of the smiley face) at the top of the "Replying to...". You'll get a box with spaces for URL (like "http://www.lr4x4.com") and Link Text (like "The best 4xForumxFar"). The finished item looks like this: The best 4xForumxFar

Good. Set it to measure 15V DC. Feel down the back of the alternator and find either a squarish plug with a wire clip over it or a big terminal, both with two thick brown wires connecting to them (two different styles of alternator connection). If it's a plug, whip the clip and cover off but leave it plugged in. Start the engine and measure the voltage from the thick brown wires to the engine block - should be over 14V with the engine revving (careful, the alternator is connected to the battery - don't short anything and mind the pulleys/belts/fan) Also on the back of the alternator there should be a thinner brown/black wire. Check the voltage of this wire to the block too. This should be the same. Lastly take the warning light block out, take the charge warning bulb out and check the resistance of the filament - should be "something". Let us know the answers.

Series 2.25 starter dog - 1 21/32" AF

the answer (1 21/32 AF) Edit - first attempt was for a 2.5P That's about 42.06mm, so a 42mm deep socket may just fit, but I can only find these in 3/4 drive

Do you have a multimeter? (other similar products here here and here, Ref: 287132)

Would you like my diagram to host Mr A?

Watch with Les I'd add "rear crankshaft oil seal" to the list Must learn to read Must learn to read Must learn to read

purple/orange - seat belt switch white - ignition feed black/green - pass? white/purple - electric fuel pump light green/green - oil temperature sender / gauge white/yellow - handbrake switch green - feed to reverse lamp switch

On the wiring diagram, the black / green ends up being earthed in the engine compartment (at a plug with purple/orange, white, black/green, white/purple, light green/green, white/yellow and green wires on it). You can just connect it to earth in the fusebox, does the same thing.

Agree. Only once in my 20 years of "normal" landrover ownership have I ever legitimately needed one, towing a large demo unit around town at 10mph.

As Ralph says, E-marked Crystal headlamps with +80% 55/60W bulbs in. All completely legal (the construction and use regs apply to power consumption and E-marking) provided they are correctly adjusted in accordance with the manufacturer's spec. Ye gods the difference (and no wiring changes at all).

Yes, the LH side and RH side have seperate fuses but the front and back sidelights / tail lights on each side are one circuit. The numberplate lamp comes off the LH circuit.

The clicking is the start relay. If it is clicking that means something is happening on the clever side. Check that you have connected the big plug in the engine compartment up properly. Then have a look in the fusebox (down the back) for a relay with one brown, three white / red and one black / green wire attached. Pull it out and push it back in a few times.

A few full stops would help us understand you! Which model / engine / age / is the loom the right one? Which relay? Do you mean the solenoid on top of the starter motor? How do you mean "bypass"? From where to where? Between which terminal(s) at each end? And why?