errol209

This one - missed it myself - ta Chris. The hardest bit is getting the bolts off that join the swivel to the axle, but Les even has a guide to working round that too.

Wow! the rear diagonal / vertical / horizontal attached (?) to the rear x-member is completely useless! That is impressive Just to preserve this one for future generations to admire (and for the purposes of comment and review only, original copyright Ebay)

Nah, just weak screwdriver technique I'd try replacing the screws with the Torx version (M6 x 40mm, part number MXC9689) if not already fitted. Also take it all to bits and give all the surfaces a good clean with wire wool before re-assembling?

100% certain there's a thread in the tech archive - oh look - Its Disco but the theory is identical. As to swivel balls (new), many people are going for teflon coated ones, I'm sure a dozen conflicting views will be along shortly!

Don't do that! Get him to invite you over to help with his clutch! Or something!

Have you got the nut plate on the back of the panel, or has someone replaced it with ordinary nuts?

ERR4128 superceded, USE STC8665 ETC8616, USE STC8660

Using a blunt chisel and a smallish hammer.

Well, from these two it isn't the ignition. In summary - It starts and runs, but won't run under load. The big bang comment isn't good, and could have had an effect on the MS ECU (which is still controlling the fuel injection). The only other thing you haven't mentioned is valve timing?

*ignore me, sorry.* (you already said AES)

Applying some reverse logic also suggests that the short could be anywhere after the fuse, including in the back of the fuse box. The only sure-fire way of finding such an intermittent fault is to replace each wiring run in turn until either you find a bad bit visually or the problem goes away I'd start at the fusebox and follow the power wiring route looking for the pointy ends of screws, melted bits or loom passing over edges and corners. The other easy check is inside the ECM housing to make sure there isn't a washer or loose blob of something floating about inside.

.I used to work with these things, and I asked about the lack of lubrication. They'd tried it and the grease just attracted stone dust and wore the links out in about 20 hours running. Unlubricated they last about 500 hours and that's cutting through granite / topsoil.

Do we come over that bad? There's a tetchy few I'll grant you, but still! A friend had a "Desmond" done on his 200Tdi and found it OK, but he never really loaded the car up or towed. As said above, a little play on the turbo shaft is vital and the oil is most likely to be coming from the turbo drain or possibly the feed pipe. Check they're both done up, the clips on the flexible pipe are tight and the pipe isn't split.

Here

Surely this has got to be one for SimonR, then he can call them X-Trusion or X-Wings . The balance will be resilience, how easy it is to cut and tear resistance, need a materials scientist.

Break it while laning / trialling of course! Duh!

Don't worry, Fridge always sounds scary

I was only doing proper foreign*, not theoretically-independent self-governing principalities with no border controls (yet) Yes I know about the Falklands, but it's soooo far away ... * Used in this case to mean "not the UK", where the forum and I are based, but other more exotic lands.

I'm frequently surprised by where some of our members do live - some of the ones I can remember are South Africa, Italy, Syria, the Falkland Islands, Russia, Australia, Canada, Hungary, Norway, Finland, Belgium, Eire, the Bahamas, New Zealand, Switzerland, the Netherlands, Slovenia, the US of A, China, the Philipines, Haslemere ...

I think some first principles might help. You are looking to split a (say) 600mm log in (say) five seconds using a force of (say) two tons. A typical PTO pump generates ~3000 pounds per square inch. Two tons is 4480 pounds, so your ram needs an area of 4480/3000 square inches, which is 1.5. A circliar ram of this area has a radius of 1.5 = pi x r^2 or (1.5/pi)^.5, which is 0.7 inches, say 18mm, so a diameter of 36mm (40mm would be over engineering but a standard size, so we'll use that. So to get a 40mm diameter (area 1260 mm2) ram to extend 600mm you need 756000 cubic millimetres (756 cubic centimetres) of fluid. Over five seconds this is: ~150 cc per second ~9000 cc per minute ~9 litres per minute ~2 gallons per minute or ~6 cc/rev @ 1500 rpm. [At 70 litres per minute your ram will extend fully in 0.64 seconds - pretty much uncontrollable]

I was too polite to ask!

Yep, my thought exactly, plus the possibility of a dodgy earth. Edit: it could be that the meter is going out of range (too high) on a spike, or to zero.

Where is the voltmeter wired to exactly?

Camber is the amount by which the wheels lean in or out laterally to the vehicle- not much on a landy IIRC!. This can only be changed by fitting modified swivels (but why would you want to?) Caster is the amount by which the axis of the swivel bearings is offset from vertical in front of the tyre / road contact point. This can be changed either by lifting the front suspension (worse), rotating the swivel housings on the axle ends by re-drilling and so forth (better or worse depending) or by fitting radius arms that have been built to produce a different Caster Angle (better). Good (if long) guide

Key wire is light green / brown , which goes hazard switch - indicator stalk - flasher relay. It must be connected through (cos the hazards work), but not working at the indicator stalk (which could be the switch itself) If you short the LG/B to green/white or green/red at the back of the indicator stalk plug and the indicators suddenly work, then its the switch.