errol209

Parts book says M12 x 180mm.

Back = high (normal) ratio Middle = Neutral Forward = low ratio Right = centre differential working Left = centre differential locked Right / back = normal road driving Left / back = use to overcome loss of traction on the flat (e.g. on wet grass), wheel changing. Left / forward = climbing hills on low traction surfaces (off roading) Right / forward = low speed maneuvering (with very large trailers etc.) Anything / Middle = using centre PTO, confusing car thieves.

A loose/broken wire or bad contact in the hazard switch: green/red is LH inds, green/white is RH inds, so whichever doesn't work.

I wondered about some of this: I assume that hydraulic test points, regular winch rope proof tests and mandatory IVAs for un-registered vehicles (I can see HMGov just loving that one) are going to make it all a bit tedious

Thirdly - why? It would end up under the wing behind and possibly in the way of the heater fan, need another biggish hole in the bulkhead, require a longer tube and shaft to operate and have two extra and radical bends in it (making it struggle even more).

And in 99.999999% of practice too* - this is exactly how I'd do it, allowing you to kill the winches from any convenient stop switch too. * You're very theoretically left with mechanical damage to the solenoids stopping them from disengaging, but I doubt this has ever happened?

... posted ... posted ... posted

Oh, don't wind him up! We have concluded (as a group) many times that the blue cardboard boxes are occasionaly handy and that things like seals, fabricated parts, retainers, gears, bearings, cables, cast parts, switches, pipes, panels, lenses, plugs, shafts, indicators, lockwashers, engine components, heating and cooling devices, flanges, ball joints, bushes, transmission parts, glass items, friction products, machined parts, steering related items, hoses and repair sections are a bit "iffy"; but otherwise they're OK.

It's normally stamped-in somewhere in the middle of the "longer half", same on the back. You may need a wire brush ...

Typing site:lr4x4.com followed by what you want to search for also works.

You have to cut off the only thing you can - the air. Pulling the inlet hose off the turbo should stop some of the oil getting to the engine, then strangle it by sealing off the turbo inlet, somehow. My Grandad, faced once with a stationary 250HP gas engine running away on coal dust sacrificed his boiler suit, but it worked.

Think long and hard before doing mass replacements of chunks of wiring with non-standard colours etc., as tracing faults relies on you recording what you've done!

Hold the reel upright with the belt coming out of the top and tap gently. There is a lock detects when down isn't downwards. Hold them the right way and they'll release.

From here : "When the vehicles are attached solely by a rope or chain, the maximum distance allowed between the vehicles is 4.5 metres. If the distance between the two vehicles exceeds 1.5 metres then the rope or chain must be made clearly visible within a reasonable distance from either side to other road users. This is usually done by tying a coloured flapping cloth in the middle of the rope or chain. The person in the broken down vehicle must be a qualified driver as he is actually driving the vehicle. A further point is that if it is dark then the broken down vehicle must have its lights on as it would under normal circumstances." Note: Vehicles are only to be towed on motorways, for the minimum distance necessary, to reach a place of safety where recovery may be effected by a recovery vehicle.

Advice here

I think you mean: MTC5851 and 331083 But I bet if you put a wanted ad up someone will have some, it's also the kind of thing you find at autojumbles.

A little peripheral digging (sorry, but I find intriguing that the world can make a device capable (in theory, of course) pulling something around 1000A but doesn't make a device which can control it!) reveals that contactor continuous ratings are reliant on heat dissipation (no surprise) and this is acheived by setting minimum square areas for the connecting cables. E.g. Tyco, who make a continuous 500A IP66-equivalent SPST contactor (yours for ~£100, and you'll need four) suggest that to actually run at 500A you need 150mm2 cable to carry the heat away, bigger at higher currents. I suspect that you could construct an 80% duty 600A reversing contactor (solenoid) if you wished...

All points taken, but just for reference, this is heaviest duty isolator I could track down at a believable price. Not terribly user friendly though, but it's rated in excess of your cables?

My tip, after needing both hands to pull the release: When you do eventually get it open, strip the cable (including the outer, leaving the inner in the outer) out of the vehicle, part fill a small balloon or condom with any kind of thickish oil (EP90 or engine oil) cable tie it over the open end of the cable and hang it up overnight to allow the oil to work its way down. Take the oil sac of the top and leave it again to allow the excess to run out, then refit. Works wonders with speedo cables, bike brake cables and handbrake cables too. (Condom suggestion courtesy of a former GPO mechanic neighbour of mine - ta Reg)

A six horsepower (6HP) 12 volt electric motor will pull just under 380 amps under full load (63 amps per horsepower at 12 volts).

Quite probably, since the LR part numbers for the relevant bits date from S3 days. Lastly, they generally come with the seatbelts, but strangely STC1180 has an assortment of fittings!

A modern (like this millenium) battery-sensed jobbie will have three (12V out, charge warning out and sense wire), and won't charge properly unless the sense wire is connected to the battery, IIRC.

Did they give a reason at all? Seems a strange thing to say, to me.

Nah, mine r orange m8!

I didn't suggest higher power bulbs (which would be illegal for on-raod use anyway): +80% 55/60W bulbs draw the same current as ordinary 55/60W bulbs, they're just miles brighter. I do agree with adding a relay anyway though, whether it's on a series or a Defender.