errol209

Here - larf? I nearly wet myself!

Hell, have you lot left anything on?

I think your internets is broke ... LR Series Craddocks

Bearmach's parts browser claims RTC6862 is a Defender CV joint by GKN, and that it is an LR number still? Island 4x4 says: EDIT: RTC6862 is also for non-ABS, btw

The giveaway is when you can wipe half the screen by pushing the arm backwards and forwards yourself! Yes, I'd say you have a worn mechanism and yes its a crash pad off job.

If your alternator has a "W" connection on the back then any aftermarket rev counter will work

Your LR should already have them, plus one each for the main box and transfer box. Three should come up next to the bulkhead in the engine compartment and one under the back body somewhere. You can add timing chest and bellhousing breathers (not standard), bring them all together in a manifold and then run one pipe up the snorkel - there are kits but you can also do it with bits off ebay. Unless you plan to spend all day and everyday up to the wheelarch eyebrows in water then the standard LR arrangment is just fine (with the wading plugs in of course).

An earth wire

And a big pot of Copperease, makes them much easier to undo next time.

Should go air intake / snorkel -> air filter -> turbo inlet (in the middle of turbo at one end) -> (turbo) - > turbo outlet (the one at right angles to the engine) - > intercooler bottom -> (intercooler) -> intercooler top - > inlet manifold.

That narrows it down So its not the main box then. How did you check the transfer box alone? If you put the diff lock in, does turning the handbrake drum make the mainbox output shaft go round? If you wedge the mainbox output up, what can you do with the two propshaft flanges with the difflock in and out? (e.g. twist one the other should go the other way and vice versa without the difflock, etc.) Does the hi-low lever actually move the selector in the box? Does the difflock rodding actually engage difflock? Diffs are OK then. You've missed something! You need to test each assembly seperately. We'll try, for a small cut

Up to a point. However the palaver of getting all the vapour out prior to welding up bigger (e.g. bigger than tiny) holes isn't worth it: buy a new tank and treat it inside and out before fitting it. The leak fixing stuff isn't far off the cost of a new tank anyway.

Eh? you short the WS wire to 0v at the tank end and the LF light GOES OUT? That's wrong then! I think we might be vectoring in on the problem here. I think the wiring is wrong at the dash end. Whip the instrument panel off and see what's what (piccies are good).

OK, breathe ... The fuel gauge and associated lamps etc. have two seperate circuits. The low fuel lamp is fed from the ignition (behind the instruments, white wire) and then a white / slate wire goes from the other side of the bulb to the sender unit. The bulb will only come on if you earth the white / slate wire somewhere. There is a seperate copper sector in the sender unit that does this when the level falls too low. The second circuit is the fuel gauge, which is fed by a green wire (behind the instruments) and the other connection goes via a green / black wire to another terminal on the sender unit. The higher the resistance of the sender unit the lower the gauge reads. Both circuits then go to earth via the other (black) wire. EDIT: Try unplugging the green / black and white / slate wires form the tank, turning the ign on and touching each one to ground in turn - the low fuel lamp should flash on and off and the fuel gauge should go to full and back respectively. EDIT2: You have checked to make sure the sender arm has a float on it and that this float can go up and down, haven't you??

This is probably a hang-over from pre-waxoyl times when it was common (particularly among farmers, my Dad tells me) to spray the used engine oil on the chassis at every oil change, as it was a cheap and slightly-more-effective-than-nothing way off slowing the rot. It is unbelievably messy and the resulting oil spill would have to be caught and disposed of properly these days (not just allowed to soak into the ground Waxoyl has a higher melting point for a start, so its miles better.

Or buy this one

Take her to Billing and get someone with an Airportable to give her a spin round the offroad course, that should sort her out. I absolutely refuse to condone your evil plan

It also powers the spare feed point located behind the cover at the back driver's side (RHS as you face front) of the rear tub.

Wot Ralph sed then

Coo, interesting, thank you!

The only difference between the circuits (indicators / hazards) is where the power comes from. The indicators are fed by a green wire (ignition switched) but the hazards come off a purple (always on but fused) feed. Do all the other things fed from the same fuse (cigar lighter and something else) also work, or not?

OP said: It might not be the whole bracket that's loose, just the off / side / head switch. Souster: are all the other switches on the steering column as bad?

It sounds very broken. They are however quite easy to replace: covers off the steering column, disconnect the appropriate plug, remove the switch, and re-assembly is the reverse. I doubt you'll be able to make a lasting repair, the switches aren't brilliant to begin with

It should allow the fan to spin relatively freely when at room temperature, and lock almost solid at 70 - 800. Heat gun on a low setting (mind your fingers, and don't let it get silly hot).

Or 32 of your hard-earned GBpounds on Eblag