pete3000

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=94260 read the info in the post for part numbers etc, note my comments on the diesel leak. My new tank has a leak if i fill it all the way up to the neck. Yours could be this, or a perished rubber filler hose or return pipe? The 110 tanks usually go from the base through corrosion so unlikely it's the tank if only leaks when you brim it.

the sender is PRC8463 early type? or AMR1495 gasket and union kit here, has all the bits you need, not convinced of the green composite washer though. http://www.island-4x4.co.uk/fuel-tank-fitting-genuine-wfe000190kit-esr2000kit-nrc7570kit-p-6638.html however also get a esr3278 and use some sealant or fibre washers on your pickup tube screws as the bearmach tanks don't use blind holes allowing the diesel to leak past the pickup tube

farnell/cpc. tyco/amp ring terminal connectors http://uk.farnell.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Search?catalogId=15001&langId=44&storeId=10151&categoryId=700000004985&pageSize=25&showResults=true&pf=112067084 pete

looking at the part number of your plastic replacement its looks like a newer series of part number possibly tdci post 2006. QRBxxxxxx, the older part number with the inserts should be MTC3499?

I had their stainless mid pipe for the defender, it has lasted well only mild corrosion on the stainless, the thing that irritates me is they used mild steel on the 2 hangers and they are going to be the first part to go.

trouble after leaving it for a while suggests that the fuel is running back to the tank, maybe a small air leak into the diesel system. Have you checked the push on rubber diesel leak off pipes are not cracked or perished between each injector? remove the engine cover and inspect/renew. bleed the fuel filter with the 10mm nut on the top till a bubble free dribble of diesel emerges, then the 17mm? union bolt on the fuel injection pump.

Was it their stainless version , they seem to rust less quickly. The standard P38 2.5DT twin tailpipes are rusting nicely after 18 months around the boxes.

Problem as I see it is britpart can be ok as repackers/box shifters, where they source and supply oem parts such as P38 Dunlop ride height sensors. This falls apart once they source the same part from china for 20p less and continue to supply it under the same part number in a blue box. Complete lottery. And the G number means nothing only they supply the same part to the factory.

aldi bio washing powder, wet the part/s then sprinkle a bit on agitate with a brush, leave for 5 mins then hosepipe off. works well on the drive as well to get rid of oil slicks

It's probably those calipers, I found they were quite meaty, after the initial problems it was all fine until i tried to bleed the front and found a weep in between the spacer on the NSF new caliper under braking pressure.

Sounds like your vaccuum is working then, good news. you probably do need to do a mini bleed, if you filled your master cylinder open both ports slightly and push slowly to dribble any air that has risen to unions and push fresh fluid in. then with pedal still down use an assistant to tighten the two unions up and let the reservoir fill the master cylinder up.

I had exactly this issue using the part numbers you used, interference fit when tightened up, found a tickle wit the powerfile on the outside of the hub flange (where studs press through) and centre of caliper radius only sorts it out. around 0.8mm to 1mm clearance now. The calipers are rough castings and a tickle with the file should rub the casting to a more polished finish

borrow or pick up a syncmate? or the other one has worked for me in the past open bonnet (wind windows down at front so you dont lock yourself out) then key on, key off. close drivers door take the battery neg off and wait 10 secs re-apply batt neg, lock/unlock drivers door with key open door and then press unlock on rf remote ign to pos 2 and crank within 30 secs.

On a related note, could the collective forum do a proper LR SOS feature? not one of those 60minute specials where LLB turns up and wallpapers the dog and the fridge. and puts pink carpet on the walls shows. A proper tools out, get someone back on the road type effort? or has it been done and dusted and agreed to be a bad idea? Just Thinking about the possibilities...... JeffR Nige.... at least it would bring £250 in from You've been Framed/Rudetube. Anyone?

Pictures?

If the type 50 was smaller than the one you had, then a type 80 would be the next guess, so nrc4772 is a good shout. You can never be sure what is factory fitted or not, depending on what other owners have done in the past. You can only try and replace what is there if it was working for you.

Don't think i've ever seen one of those James. Are they on later 300tdi or 90 axles?. On my rear disc brake conversion I deleted the outer seal on the stub as well, to let the oily goodness run through the whole axle and stubs

The RTC3511 may be slightly different, the spring sits on the outside edge, of the part. note from other google pics the slight round taper on the side that goes in first, then the larger plug end. http://s577.photobucket.com/user/rover_driver/media/RoverParts/Drivetrain/RTC3511.jpg.html Also note, use a scrap rtc3511 seal to tap the smaller diameter 1mm or so below the face of the flange, or it won't last long. I used these on my pre 300tdi axles in both inner and outer bearings on the stub axle/hub recessed as per another place http://landroverforums.com/forum/discovery-i-39/hub-seal-leaking-again-grr-35029/page3/

brass bar drift, so the material is softer than your hubs, 15mm dia round bar 200-250mm long, expensive but add it to the toolbox.

depends on the seal, the directional type seal the sharp lip edge should go towards the oil or grease, The more confusing rtc3511 (fits many vehicles) double lip seal, if you need to tap it in you'll be using the flat face, use another rtc3511 (or the old one) to avoid smashing the smaller diameter piece through the seal. edit: if we are talking about the stub axle inner and outer seals that is...

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=85735 any ideas?

Technically LR related as I wanted to know is there a quick reference calculator or sheet, which would tell me what size OD steel tube I would need for a given bolt size. I'm thinking specifically for crush tubes, but other projects looming. Brackets etc. i.e if you have an M10 bolt and want a sleeve to weld into a box section, then you need clearance but not masses. I'm sure it's not as simple as 2mm wall x2 =4mm wall +10mm = 14mm OD tube 2mm wall. (is it?) Pete

any colours? or photos?

yup as Bowie69 says, M12 goes to front circuit M10 to rears 3/16" pipe for both.

https://www.facebook.com/Solihull/photos/a.10151629668150810.1073741827.126136180809/10152751637970810/?type=1&fref=nf