Mark

I have 2 Halfords ones, and they just work nicely. If money was no object or if I earned my living off it I'd go with britool or norbar, but the halfords ones really are good for the money. Mark

You have obvioulsy never met Orange's Mrs...

It would appear that it doesn't like firefox, but it works ok in IE. shame....

Usually it means that the vehicle went through the Special Vehicles department as part of it's supply. Is is a commercial? I think all D2 commercials went through SV. There should be a contract number on the same dataplate, so you may be able to find out why it went through SV?

By green, I assume you mean Olive drab? I believe everything is supplied to the military in olive drab, regardless of which theatre they are planned to operate in. They will then get repainted externally in the appropriate colour for thier deployment...

No idea Barry... It's been quite an interesting year so far - no clear dominance of any one team, lots of different people in the prizes, so I was kinda curious where we stood at this stage....

Lucy, Any chance of the championship points up to this point? I have seen results for most rounds individually, but not a championship table thus far this year, and it starts to get interesting around this stage! Cheers Mark

Have you checked the radiator? If you use the truck off road, then there is a good chance that it is clogged up with mud stopping the airflow through it. I would be inclined to remove the radiator, and clean through it, and also back flush it to make sure. Without knowing the vintage of the rad, I would be wary of attacking it with a pressure washer, as you may find you lose a lot of your fins as well as the mud! hth Mark

'graced' is an interesting choice of words.... 'burdened' would possibly fit better...

James, have you checked the Autosparks website, to see if a row spec 300 loom can be had from them?

Nick, Thing 1: Use a 1/2" breaker bar.... Thing 2: They should be loctited in so a bit of heat may well be a good idea - not to the point of getting everything red hot, but enough to get the thread locking compound to soften. I would imagine you can rig up a shield of some sort with a bit of scrap ally to protect the brake pipe? Even an old bean can would work for this purpose. Thing 3: careful you don't round the corners off, cos they're even harder to get off once the socket keeps slipping as well! (guess how I know!) Enjoy Mark

james, once you are done with the old td5 loom, I could use a few bits of it to repair my damaged poverty spec td5... Cheers Mark

It looks like a regulator, with a water trap and an oiler on the lefthandside of the first picture is the regulator - to regulate the ouput to a set pressure, determined by turning the knob on the top - with an integral water trap, to stop any condensed water getting to whatever you have attached at the end. On the righthandside looks like an oiler - to add oil to the air so that things like air tools stay lubricated. It should have the input on the left and the output on the right I believe. hth Mark

I tend to use black or silver sharpies or a scriber. the silver ones work very well on non-bright materials provided you clean the oil coating off first.

it looks like the top one is the bmw style connector, whilst the bottom one is a standard ISO connector(s). I have loom that we used in our freelander that may well work... Mark

Probably the same reason they changed the design of the swivel ball briefly....

thats really nice, the right colour and everyhitng!

OK, really simple thought... how smooth are you welds at the top of your cage? Looking at your picture, you could just pass the hook up from it's current position, over the rear stay, under the x-brace, and then out over the top of the side roof bars.... take a die ginder, and a flap wheel, and smooth out the joints at the top there, and you have a built in fairlead....

I have no idea what sort of wall thinkness your box section holding the fairlead is, but I would be looking at bracing it back to something, possibly the legs of the cage, even if only using it as a rear winch. If you do brace it, then you could just think about adding some loops made of 20mm bar to the top corners of your cage (and possibly moving your hook keep) so you can just run the rope from it's current position up to the top of the cage, and out as a centre winch? faffing around moving fairleads souds like more hassle than it's worth tbh... The tie rods accross the top of the winch keep the drum square in the bearings, and aligned in the gearbox, along with the foot mounts. Any opportunity for the winch chassis to flex will cause binding in the winch, which believe me, you don't want! Bracing the winch leaving that area open seems to open up the oportunity for flex tbh... just a few thoughts Mark

There is a lot of interest in using the Arduino system and clones thereof, which I have seen Si refer to before. I know that he has used other systems as well though...

To get the rop to spool onto the drum, you want as much room as possibly between the fairlead and the drum - Having it come off the drum, and then through 90 degrees round the fairlead would lead to issues with the rop bunching or fouling on the drum. If you are insistent on only using 1 winch, then I would go for a it pointing upward with a very small (possibly circular) hawse halfway up the back of the truck. This needs to be really well braced, as you will be putting some quite severe strain on it whilst wincing backwards. You can then make rope guides, like small fairleads at all the points you want to take the rope out - ie at the top corners of the rear hoop, and in the centre of the rear bed. Make them big enough to be able to pass the hook through! we did something similar for our centre winch - albeit without the rear component, and it works very well. As I say you would need to make sure the centre hawse is very well braced, as when pulling backwards, you will be putting a lot of strain in all the wrong directions!

cable ties gaffa tape leatherman bog roll spade maglite and something to keep the wife occupied....

and following your link gives this: so which one is it? Australia or South Africa???

bling tax?

Morning, They will fit, physically, but generally Range Rover Callipers are twin circuit (ie they have 2 pipes running to them) whilst 90 one would be single circuit. Rangie calipers can be modified to work, but to be honest you would be better off finding the correct calipers. hth Mark